AIO X 2 - How, Exactly, Should This be Done?

T

Tazmo

New member
I've read dozens of threads on applying the Klasse Twins...and I think I've got my plan down pretty good (irrespective of the "new" way vs. the old way to remove SG :) ....for what it's worth, I'm gonna try the "new" way, i.e., wipe on/wipe off).



However there's one thing I'm still not clear on, and that's how to go about applying AIO twice.



First off...have I got it correct that there's no need to buff AIO off right away? I mean, can I apply the product to the whole car and THEN go back and buff off the residue? Or should I be applying a panel at a time and buff as I go?



When folks refer to "AIO x 2", do they mean that they've gone around the car twice applying the product before buffing it off....or do they mean, apply AIO, buff off, and then do the whole procedure again?



If someone could clear that up those last little bits that's missing for me, I'd really appreciate it. Oh...if it matters, I'll be using a PC to apply the AIO, and I'll be doing the SG by hand.



Thanks,



-Tazmo
 
I'm not sure about putting on one coat of AIO then leaving it while you put on the second coat. I've found that AIO can be a real PIA to remove if you let it dry too long. I've use it on both my car and truck but apply to one section and then remove. When I do 2 coats I follow the one section on, one section off method til I've covered all sections with 2 coats.

Just my $ .02 for whatever it's worth.
 
the way i understand aio x2 is that its just to make sure you got every little spot. my understanding is aio cant be layered because its a cleaner. I just aio the whole car without buffing, than go around again and buff off after every other panel to make sure i got every spot so my SG will bond correctly.
 
Yeah...my understanding too is that the main purpose of the "X2" is primarily to make sure you didn't miss a spot. However, it's still confusing in that if you go around twice before buffing it off, it would seem like there'd be a danger of using too much product.



Checking CMA's site...it seems like they recommend doing a panel at a time. Although they describe using a bonnet to buff a panel off. Sure would seem crazy to try to use a white pad to apply to a panel...then switch to a bonnet (over the wool pad no less) buff the panel off...then switch back to your white pad, etc. etc. I'm sure they can't mean a workflow like that, but that's what it appears they are saying on their instruction page



However, in the famous (or infamous? :D ) Jimwh writeup he says:



"Go over the entire car from back to front.



Take a break! (but not too long)



Do it again. No need to buff off the first coat."



Sorta confusing...
 
Tazmo, what you'll find here while reading up on various products and the techniques for their use is that there are multiple methods which achieve the same end result. Sort of like, "There's more than one way to skin a cat." While the information you read here sometimes seems confusing and contradictory, as you become more familiar with Autopia you will see this information in another light. One thing you have to remember is people here like to experiment, a lot. Another thing, which is great, is that very little of the information here is bad or wrong. You just have to try what you learned and see what happens.



I'm not saying that every person here achieves the same results with any particular product or method. Sometimes it comes down to gaining experience using something before you get your expected results. That's why you'll find someone writing, "I tried product so and so and used it according to what I read here and it didn't work" or "I found product b to be better than product a to make my car look its best."



Back to original question. I've been using the Klasse Twins for the past year and here's what I do. When I use AIO, I do one panel at a time. Wipe on, wipe off. If I feel I need to apply AIO again, I redo the panel before I move on to the next one. I use a damp MF sponge applicator, which came with the kit I bought. I haven't used any other types of applicators to apply AIO or SG for that matter, but I can't see anything working any better. Some people use their PC and I have one I just like doing some of my stuff by hand. I apply 2 pencil lead thin lines in an X pattern about 2" long to the applicator. After your applicator gets fully dampened with AIO that's easily enough to do a panel.



Now go grab your Klasse, applicators and MF towels and get to work. There's one thing for sure that should help eliminate your confusion on AIO, actually using the stuff. Have fun and post some pics when you're done! :xyxthumbs
 
Why...thank you, HellrotCi, for a very nice rundown of what I can expect to find from the folks here at Autopia. I've actually been lurking/searching/reading here quite a bit, and one thing that seems to stand out here compared to other interest forums is a spirit of "open mindedness".



And on that note...I have come to understand there truly is not one way to, as you say, skin a cat when it comes to technique and applying products. However, I suppose my main interest here was wanting to be sure I didn't misunderstand how long I could leave AIO on and thus make an impossible job for myself when trying to buff it out.



Then too, I think some of my concerns are just "stage fright" jitters. It's showtime today with the Klasse twins...and while I can't wait to get started, I'm also a bit nerveous. (I just want to treat the Twins right, don't ya know! :p)



Also...I appreciate you, along with the others, sharing your technique. Once I get started, I'll probably end up developing my own little twists to some of the recommendations given.



So with all that in mind, I think what I'll probably do is use the PC to apply the AIO a panel at a time...wipe it off...move to the next panel, etc. After I've completed the whole car this way, I'll make a second application, probably only to the main panels.



Thanks again,



-Tazmo
 
:wavey



I just tried AIO for the first time yesterday. I first went around with a PC using a polishing pad (white), let it sit for an hour. Then went around again with a finishing pad (black) until almost gone. Then buffed with an MF. WOW, killer results and it was easy. I feel very fortunate to have attained these results first time out of the blocks. I couldn't have done it without all of Autopia's help.. Thanks guys :bow
 
Do u guys damp the MF applicator when u apply the AIO or SG ?



also there's no need to buff off the first layer of SG before u apply the second one ?



Thanx
 
CMA recommends the use of Eagle One Wipe & Shine as the "wetting agent" for your AIO applicator. I would apply AIO with a PC & charcoal pad, then immediately hit it with a MF - no need to let AIO dry. I found that if the AIO doesn't buff right off, it is because it was left to dry too long (implication here is I was attempting to apply to too large and area) and this appears as streaking in the finish. I just spritz a MF towel with W&S then hit with a dry MF and voila, streaking is history.



BTW this was being done in Houston, TX early in the morning out of the sun, with humidity between 80 and 90 % and temperatures between 80 and 90 degrees. Many layers of Souveran after that. Some of the shine shows up in my avitar pix
 
I got my Klasse twins last month, and used them for the first time. Took a little mental adjusting, but it was easy as less work was involved with the adjustment.



Buffing is non existant. At least buffing like one has to do with a carnuba wax. Klasse is an acrylic product, you don't have a layer of gunk to get off.



I spent most of my time cleaning the car. Even clayed it (first time I ever did that either). By the time I was done washing, it was hours later and I was rather tired. The car was very dirty and rather large.



I did the AIO panel by panel. Having the applicator wet helped tremendously. Things would stick when the pad was getting dry. I didn't work the AIO like a rubbing compound, mostly because I was tired, time was starting to run out, and I just didn't feel up to it. However, the results were still very good.



I did two rounds with the AIO, and like a few others mentioned, the second round seemed to help me get the areas I missed the first time. Probably 1 hour for the first round, and half and hour for the second.



I did "wipe" things down after each round. My towel would pick up a little bit of stuff, but not much. It really was a wipe down, not a buff.



Then came two rounds of SG, which is where the visual magic was. This game a tremendous shine, just like this fella shows :bounce



Very thin application, and that was easy to do for me. I did the Bill North approach with wiping it on one panel, and wiping off or buffing the previous panel. I worked around the car in about half an hour for each coat. This part went so easily that I was more rested after I finished then before I started it.



The car looked beautiful. It would have looked even more beautiful if I would have worked harder on the oxidation to completely remove it, but it looked great none the less.



How good? Well, better then it looked when I'd spent an entire weekend going at it with a power buffer and the typical polishes and carnuba waxes. In fact, I've never made a car look as good as the brick currently looked.



It's been a little over a month now, and the car still looks good and is beading water superbly.
 
might sounds a lil bit weired but how u guys cleans up those applicated pad ( i got those MF ones) after applying the AIO & SG ? will normal washing detergent works ?



Do u guys seperate them so it will use only for AIO or SG ?
 
I wash mine in the sink with warm water and dawn, kneed them with lots of soap, wring them out and let them air dry. IMO, they are clean enough at that point to be considered new.
 
Fill the sink with warm water and Simple Green. Let soak and mush them around and wash them up. Rinse well and air dry.



I hate Tide and Dawn. It's too thick and concentrated and never seems to fully wash out!
 
I've applied AIO with a PC and a charcoal pad using E1 Wipe and Shine as "wetting" agent. Sprayed pad generously with E1 then about a nickel sized dab of AIO.



SG by hand with a 4 inch yellow foamy
 
I'd like to thank everyone for their input to my question about how to apply AIOx2. I was just a wee bit nervous about using the Klasse twins, but once I got started everything just fell into place.



I used a white pad on the PC to apply the first coat of AIO. I applied it to a panel, shut the PC down, and wiped it off...simple as can be...one panel at a time. I applied the second coat in the same manner, only using a yellow pad this time per CMA's instrucitons. Not sure if this second coat was really necessary, as I'd already gone over the car with clay, DACP and #9 (Meg's Swirl Remover 2.0)



I then applied the first coat of SG by hand. I took everything I'd read to heart about applying it very, very thin. I used the blue Viper pads that come with CMAs Klasse Concours Kit, using just two thin pencil-width lines at the top and bottom of the dry pad. The stuff went on like a dream.



Next came the dilemma...do I take it off the "new" (i.e., Bill North) way, or do I just do the whole car and let it sit for awhile. I ended up doing the latter...in fact, I decided to leave it on over night.



The next morning, I had my Eagle One Wipe and Shine ready and two MF towels ready. However, I decided to try just a dry towel first to see what would happen. Much to my surprise, I was able to wipe most of it off with no trouble whatsoever with just the one dry towel. I did end up using the E1 W&S in a few trouble places, however.



Man, I thought, this stuff's great! Can't wait to try coat number two.



I waited the obligatory 24 hour period and went to work on the second coat of SG. However, this time I decided to wait only about an hour and a half before buffing it off instead of all night. Ughhh...big difference.



Not sure if it was because I could have possibly applied it a little thicker this time (I don't *think* so) or if it was the waiting of several hours that made the big difference. Whatever the case, it took some elbow grease and the two-towel method to get it off.



But frankly, now with the way my car looks, I could care less if I woulda had to use a blow tourch to get it off! I just can't believe how good this ten-year old paint looks! It's incredible.



I'm headed out right now to apply coat number three of the SG. This time I will be doing it the "new" way (i.e., wipe on/wipe off) just for the heck of it. After that, I plan to top it off with a coat of S100 (probably have to wait until next weekend).



Sorry for the length of this post, but I hope my run-down of how I did it might help another newbie. I also wanted to take the time to thank the veterans that jumped in on this thread for their guidance.



All I can say is, I can see how detailing can get in your blood. It's really satisfying and fun to do. Something "theraputic" about the process too!



-Taz
 
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