Age old problem I have never solved

R

re-tired

New member
I have a truck with black door handles and black handle inserts-- its a new(er) Ford F-150

made the mistake of putting mothers back to black trim care revitalizer on them to make them look dark , newer , etc..--

Now after a short period of time that garbage has worn off and there is a white somewhat chalky type residue that looks HORRIBLE!!!!! Kind of looks like when you get paste wax onto your grill / trim / doorhandles. The first product that I used on this was P.E.R.L. by car pro - did great but didn`t last very long- did not leave the residue though. in hindsight I wish I would have kept using the PERL

had this many times before over the years but never have found anything to remove it perminately.

Any one experience this other than me or have a permanent fix for it??

Regards
 
I know there are a few products out there to deal with sort of thing. 1Z deep plastic cleaner (I think that`s what it is called). Also Mckee`s wax remover for plastic has had some pretty good reviews. I just received a bottle to do the door handles on my xterra but I haven`t used it yet.
McKee's 37 Wax Remover for Plastic
 
Since the Mothers Back to Black trim care product is not a truly a wax, you can also use an APC with a small old tooth brush to clean it up and then follow up with Blackfire Trim Sealant. Remember you have to keep up on maintenance on the door handles from now on.
 
I`ve tried many different products on my 02 explorers plastic.
My best results so far is 845.
Someone mentioned it here so i tried it.
Wipe on and buff off with cheap mf towel.
 
The Einzeit Deep Plastic Cleaner is great or the McKees Vinyl Cleaner are two products I have used with good success for cleaning plastic pieces.
 
Once you get them as clean as possible, Solution Finish may be your only answer at this point. I have black plastic door handles, and started using the Blackfire Total Trim Sealant.....I`ve had excellent results with it...but have not really had that type of residue to deal with.
 
Once the white staining is gone....

-Collinite 845 (buff off before it flashes)
-Klasse AIO followed by the 845
-Klasse twins with many layers of KSG (buff off before it flashes)
-Trim sealant (I like Ultima`s Tire & Trim Guard + )
-Merely wipe with ValuGard Fast Finish when drying after wash (also great for maintenance of above suggestions)
-Merely wipe with OCW or Meguiar`s UQW (as per previous suggestion, but these leave a different level of gloss)

There are other LSPs that worked fine for me too, but they`re not nearly as foolproof as the above.
 
For my black plastic door handles, fender flairs, bumpers, and windshield cowling I`ve had great success with Duragloss 271 Rubber and Flat Black Dressing and Blackfire All In One Trim and Tire Protectant. My fender flairs and cowling were terrible. DG 271 got them back pretty quickly. It looks like vegetable oil and goes on heavy. I had some blochiness after the first coat. Second application took care of it. These parts now repel water like crazy, don`t run, and continue to look good. I`ll likely re-apply every few months. Unlike most other car products I go heaver with 271 rather than lighter. I wipe off excess a few minutes after applying. It`ll will give some gloss if you buff, so I don`t. It also got rid of some white areas on the plastic from wax.

I also tried DG 253, tire and mat dressing. It`s a little glossier. It works, but I prefer DG 271. DG 253 is now my go to for tires.

More recently I got some Blackfire All in One. So far this stuff looks great. Can`t speak to durability vs. DG 271 yet. Gives me a little deeper black. Goes on easily. It`s a cleaner and protectant, but I would get rid of any significant dirt before applying. Not sure if Blackfire will replace DG 271 for me, but it might.
 
The best results I`ve had come from using a "non-specialist" product.

Get some Boiled Linseed Oil (Home Depot or Lowes). Buy the smallest amount you can, because you will NEVER use a whole container. If you could find a 1oz. quantity, do that.

Clean the black plastic as normal, then wipe on a small amount of the Boiled Linseed Oil, and then immediately try to wipe it all back off again (you can`t).

Work carefully at the paint edge, or tape off the handles. If you get some on the paint, it`s not a problem, but it looks bad until you get it cleaned off.

After application, let it sit for 12-24 hours to set up. After that you should get about a year of improved looks & protection.

I`ve used this on the textured black plastic trim of our Volvo S80 (2000), as well as other cars. Results are far better than any `enthusiast oriented` detailing product.

Good luck!
 
dmatre said:
The best results I`ve had come from using a "non-specialist" product.

Get some Boiled Linseed Oil (Home Depot or Lowes)...
Click to expand...

Huh, I`ve used Linseed Oil for a lot of things, but never for anything detailing-related (though Barry Theal tried to get me to mix some with my M105).

Doesn`t it cause dust retention issues for you? Or even transfer if it gets rubbed against (I understand that you`d let it dry to the extent that it does).

It`s always just been...well, greasy oily stuff when I`ve used it. Whenever I used Linseed Oil for stuff that was used outdoors, it *always* did some degree of the dirt-retention thing, that`s why I`m asking.

And how would you clean it off paint without compromising the LSP? I`ve only cleand it off stuff with the kind of degreasers I wouldn`t want to get on my LSPs.

Not arguing by any means, just curious how you`ve sidestepped those issues. Or is it formulated differently these days..I haven`t used it for *anything* since forever.
 
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