Advice on Procedures

If you are prepping with SMR and you are satisified with how the paint looks when you are finished, and there is no micro marring to remove, I would skip the AIO and just layer on a few coats o SG if KLASSE is the system that you are going to try.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by OLD GTI GUY [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>I should be able to achive good results with the Klasse package that CMA sells right? So I'll apply the SMR and AIO with the PC and then apply the SG by hand right? When I apply by hand should I use the front to back motion and remove the same way? Sorry for all of the questions... I just want to get it right. Thanks again for all of the replies. :up [/b]</blockquote>
Yeah that is a good plan and I know it will work. However DETAILKING makes an interesting proposition about skipping the AIO step. Personally I have always used the AIO before the SG because I thought that was the way it was supposed to be done. However AIO and SMR are similar in that they both leave your paint very smooth. If I was going to skip the AIO step I would be sure to wash the car after the SMR so that the SG wouldn't have trouble bonding to the oils left behind by the SMR.

If you do skip the AIO step I'd be curious to find out how it turns out for you. Matter of fact I want to know how it turns out either way. Post pics if you can. You can post pics on this forum without having your pictures hosted. You just need to have the photos on your computer.
 
I'd like to thank everyone for their replies. I think I'm going to give applying everything with the PC a shot ( that's what I paid the $ for ;) ) and let you guys know how it turns out. Thanks again :up
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by OLD GTI GUY [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>First off, I'd like to thank you all for your answers and advise, and I must agree, the shine on that Jetta is breath taking... my car will hopefully come out that way:D I did try the search before my post and found a wealth of info:up ... what I'm trying to do now is get your opinions on whether I should go carnuba, or use something synthetic ( AIO, IHG, etc. ). I will then focus my attention on the search utility as I'm sure this has been beaten to death but I'm new so I hope you guys understand. Thanks again!!!;) [/b]</blockquote>
In a nutshell, you might want to consider going the route of both. The main thing you are going to be more concerned with is durability because of the dust kicked up by the road construction on Lake Shore Drive, wacker, or any construction, any industrial fallout, or the copious amounts of salt that Streets and Sanitation loves to drop when it snows.

But the key thing, as one poster said, is the amount of paint preparation. When I first Klassed the Maxima, this was my plan of attack:

a) Wash car with Dawn to remove any Carnuba wax
b) Clay car with Mother's Clay bar to remove any contaminants from driving through construction zones on 127th, I-294, and Mannheim Road.
c) Use 3M SMR to reduce swirls. However, if the swirls are deep enough, you might have to use FI II, then SMR.
d) Applied Klasse AIO 2x
e) Applied Klasse SG 2x (Gave Klasse enough curing time)

I just put some Pinnacle Souveran on top of the Klasse and it really added a level of depth. Many people put One Grand Blitz, Meguiar's #26, Pinnacle PPCL, or even P21s.

If you need a hand, let me know since we are in the same city. :D
 
IMO, you might want to Dawn wash just before AIO. Oil deposits left by clay, 3M or PPCL stuff may interfere. We don't know this for sure but there have been recent reports of Klasse hazing and we want to eliminate this as a variable. Thanks for doing it for us too :) I also would like to point out that if you use a poor quality cotton or microfiber towel, you're asking for trouble and use distilled water if you find SG difficult to remove.



As far as time scale goes, go for the wash prep, 2xAIO 1xSG on 1 day then the 1xSG on another day and 1xSG again and again on separate days (Buffing at least after 20 minutes after each coat). Reason being AIO used as a cleanser doesn't need to be cured but the SG does 1 day apart.



This is my favorite of many variations of using Klasse depending on what your time time constraints and efforts.



Did I get it all in? :D happy detailing
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by OLD GTI GUY [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>I'd like to thank everyone for their replies. I think I'm going to give applying everything with the PC a shot ( that's what I paid the $ for ;) ) and let you guys know how it turns out. Thanks again :up [/b]</blockquote>
I don't recommend putting the SG on with the PC. If you do use your PC for the SG you really have to make a concerted effort to put down very thin coats. With the SG you should be able to do a regular sized car with 2 oz or less.

I also usually prefer wiping products off by hand with a microfiber. You can also use the PC just be sure to change or flip the bonnets before they too gummed up with removed product.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by DETAILKING [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>it seems to have more of a carnuba muted shine. Many people prefer this shine and the product seems to deliver as promised. If you want more of a reflective shine that mimicks custom paint, try out zaino. You might not be able to match the reflective properties of black, but you might come close. This vette is actually dark green..........take a look.
[/b]</blockquote>
What about Klasse AIO & SG? How does the shine compare to Zaino and BF? Personally, I prefer to have wet & deep shine of carnuba more than a custom paint lshine.

Kenneth
 
I'm so glad I found this site... you guys are the best. If I decide to apply the SG by hand, is there a preferred method for application / removal? I've heard that you should never apply / remove in circles... to only use front to back motions. Is this true?:confused:
 
One last question... If I get any material on mouldings, is there a special way to get it off? I'm thinking it's unavoidable when using a buffer. Thanks guys.
 
Well, you asked about 3M SMR.



Today I washed, clayed a little, then used some 3M Perfect-It Rubbing Compound (fine cut) followed by 3M SMR for dark cars and topped off with some Meguires Gold Class wax.



Not exactly what I wanted to accomplish, but it was getting cold so I needed to hurry.



Will finish it off next weekend.



But it looks pretty good for a 1994 Land Cruiser with 135,000 miles



Only problems now is that it is so dang clean, i can see every little scratch and flaw in the clear. oh well, can't have everything.
 
Hey erveryone!

I was hoping some of you can offer advice on what I do for basic detailing.

My exterior procedure:
I start of with using a combo of Simple Green and Eagle One Wheel Cleaner on the rims and wheel wells. (I dont know what the purple stuff is but it seems like it works better than what I use)
Pre-rinse the car and then use a wash mitt and the two bucket method (still need to get grit guards though!)
Towel dry with a oversized waffle weave microfiber.
Clay Bar the car to strip previous wax.
M205 with a PC DA to correct minor abrasions.
Blackfire Wet Diamond as a glaze
Some kind of Meguiars liquid wax with the PC and another coat by hand.
Zep Glass cleaner, Turtle Wax Tire Gel, etc

Interior:
I use predominately ArmorAll products just because of decent price and easy availability.
Vaccum with a standard Orek vaccum.
Febreeze :D

So pretty much I was wondering if anyone can help me perfect my procedures. I am only 17 so I dont have a large source of cash, so Im not sure if there are prodcuts I can upgrade on without a huge increase of price. I dont use M105 mainly because Im not insured and I do not want to mess up and ruin a beautiful car. Also I've been looking into the ONR wash but I dont know how that works out or the whole foam gun approach. Anyways, if any of you have suggestions or tips to better my detailing, it would be much appreciated :clap:

Gimlet
 
Gimlet said:
Hey erveryone!

I was hoping some of you can offer advice on what I do for basic detailing.

My exterior procedure:
I start of with using a combo of Simple Green and Eagle One Wheel Cleaner on the rims and wheel wells. (I dont know what the purple stuff is but it seems like it works better than what I use)
Pre-rinse the car and then use a wash mitt and the two bucket method (still need to get grit guards though!)
Towel dry with a oversized waffle weave microfiber.
Clay Bar the car to strip previous wax.
M205 with a PC DA to correct minor abrasions.
Blackfire Wet Diamond as a glaze
Some kind of Meguiars liquid wax with the PC and another coat by hand.
Zep Glass cleaner, Turtle Wax Tire Gel, etc

Interior:
I use predominately ArmorAll products just because of decent price and easy availability.
Vaccum with a standard Orek vaccum.
Febreeze :D

So pretty much I was wondering if anyone can help me perfect my procedures. I am only 17 so I dont have a large source of cash, so Im not sure if there are prodcuts I can upgrade on without a huge increase of price. I dont use M105 mainly because Im not insured and I do not want to mess up and ruin a beautiful car. Also I've been looking into the ONR wash but I dont know how that works out or the whole foam gun approach. Anyways, if any of you have suggestions or tips to better my detailing, it would be much appreciated :clap:

Gimlet
Click to expand...




I don't see nothing wrong in what you are doing except be careful with OTC wheel cleaners because they are strong acid and alkaline cleaners can stain some wheel finishes, Try a leaf blower in aiding you in drying your cars and Blackfire Wet Diamond is a sealant and not a glaze. So you don't have to put a spray wax on by machine just spray and buff off by hand.
 
Good advice from Angelo. I however wouldn't use Simple Green. Try the Purple Power and dilute it at 4:1 if you are using it on your wheels.

Also, ONR is one of the BEST detailing products ever made. You can use it as a No Rince Wash, a Quick Detailer, and Clay Lube.
 
What company makes purple power? And to the BFWD: so I should still apply it after polishing and then just put a coat of wax on?

Also should I consider on incorporating M105 into my routine or is it too big of a risk? I would really like to get amazing results, but I also do not want to harm any cars due to inexperience. So any tips on using M105? And is ArmorAll decent for interior wipe down, or should I look elsewhere for a protectant, spot remover, and leather cleaner?
 
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