Advice for complete car detailing?

L

Logik

New member
Hey, this is my first post, so bear with me.



I've got a 1997 Acura Integra LS, it's black with gold flake in the paint. From what I've read (lurking on these forums), some products dull this gold flake finish, which is not what I want to do.



When the rains stop for good, I plan on completely detailing my car more than any car has ever been detailed in the history of detailing. I've got a brand new paintjob (about 60 days old, so by the time the rain stops it should be one hundred percent cured--right), and am wondering on what products to use in my detailing endevors.



My original plan for the exterior was this:

Wash

Claybar

Wash

Polish

Wash

Wax

Meguiars NXT (?)



So please, educate a newbie on what I should do to my paint, my preferences (in this order) are:

Deep 'wet' shine

Durability

Ease of use



As you can see, I don't care if it takes long as long as it comes out great, and continues looking great. I plan on detailing my interior as well, even going as far as to remove the seats to scrub and steam clean the seats and the whole interior carpet.



My questions are on which products to use, and perhaps a little advice on the application of the recommended products:



Clay bar

Polish (no scratches, brand new paint)

Wax

Sealing (NXT?)



Also what Vinyl stuff should I use for my (tan) interior? I prefer glossy rather than matte, as long as it doesn't stay greasy for long.



In addition, what kind of tire stuff should I use? Meguiar's tire wet gel works pretty well for me, but are there better alternatives?



I'm also looking at making my exterior black trim darker-- I've heard of two products to do this: Forever Black and Mother's Back 2 Black. Which product is superior?



Thanks for bearing with me, I'll include a few pictures of my car just washed (still no wax, polish, clay) for your enjoyment ;)



08.jpg


11.jpg


12.jpg




...and the white spot isn't a paint chip, a bird pooped on my car :(



Edit:

Another question I have is on methods of application-- what products should I use to apply and remove each product?
 
i'm relatively new here as well but i'm sure someone's gonna say that you don't need that last wash step....sort of "undoing" what you just did...303 seems to be popular for vinyl...sure there's more to come....
 
:welcome to Autopia



If you are new to this level of car care, there is a lot to learn. I suggest you click on the "Learn!" pic icon at the top of the page and read the articles posted there. There is a "how to" series that is very informative. You'll learn a lot.



As for what products to use, well, that's your call. This community exists to allow people to share ideas and experiences about car care products. If you want to know what's popular, read the Polls and threads in the Detailing Products Discussion. Ultimately only you can decide which product to use.
 
:welcome to Autopia



As you will see it’s a ‘very user friendly’ place, the people on this forum are very knowledgeable, and are more than willing to share their knowledge. The one thing that seems to stand out here compared to other special interest forums is a spirit of "open mindedness�, it’s not marque or brand specific and no opinion expressed is ‘wrong’ just different.



I’ve put this together to help you ‘find your way around’, it’s a lot of reading but worthwhile.



After reading the House Rules (upper left of the home page) that will tell you a bit about our operating procedures (and then Acronyms) Suggest you start at David’s guide (Learn icon – Car Care Topics) and/or (Forum – University) you could also research FAQ (go to Interact-Features-FAQ) or Interact (Search) and then ask your questions on (Forums - University) there are also tips on products under Shop (How-To) plus be sure to check on the discounts available to forum members. And there’s the (Reviews) section that includes the Hall of Fame, where contributing members have posted their evaluation of products.



The Autopia “Guide to detailing eBook� (eBook Subscription) covers most facets of vehicle detailing, it only costs $9.95, and that money helps to support this forum. If Autopia solves just one of your detailing problems it’s worth the price of admission



"Learn the prep b4 using good products, it will save you $$$ in the long run." hondaguy2582



~Hope this helps~





Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/



justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*
 
Jngrbrdman said:
Hey there. Welcome to Autopia. Are you a memeber of www.team-integra.net? If so then there is a great thread in the common topics in the appearance forum that might help you. Its a long one that is pretty detailed.
Click to expand...



Yeah, I am a member of TI, have been for a little over a month now. It's a pretty good site.



Thanks for all the welcomes, so I shouldn't wash after polishing?
 
Logik said:


Thanks for all the welcomes, so I shouldn't wash after polishing?
Click to expand...



If you remove the polish residue completely this should not be an issue. Any little bits of polish left will be removed by the wax or sealant. Use thin coats of products and you'll be fine.
 
I don't think you need to wash after claying. I see this step as senseless even though a lot of people on the site do so. Just clay the car then wipe down with QD if necessary.:)
 
You can use NXT as your sealant, but your order is a little off... Sealant is after polish (so the surface is clean) and before caranuba wax, because the NXT won't bond to caranuba.



Wash - Meguiar's Gold Class

Clay - Clay Magic

Wash (preference)

Polish - SFP

Seal - NXT

Wax - S100 (Harley Dealership)



Just a suggestion....
 
TBIRD 38 LX said:
You can use NXT as your sealant, but your order is a little off... Sealant is after polish (so the surface is clean) and before caranuba wax, because the NXT won't bond to caranuba.



Wash - Meguiar's Gold Class

Clay - Clay Magic

Wash (preference)

Polish - SFP

Seal - NXT

Wax - S100 (Harley Dealership)



Just a suggestion....
Click to expand...



Yeah, I just read every article at "Better Car Care", and that helped me a lot.



I like the products you've mentioned, but for ease of use, it'd be easier if I got everything at my autoparts store locally. Are these products decent?



Wash - Meguiar's Gold Class

Clay - Mother's Clay Bar

Wash - Meguiar's Gold Class

Polish - Meguar's Polish (the least abrasive one they have)

Seal - Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax

Wax - Meguar's Gold Class Carnuba Wax (I could possibly get the S100 if it is much better)



How is the durability of S100?



Thanks everyone for the help, my cleaning knowledge has gone up tenfold already.



I'd also be using Forever Black on my black trim pieces, trying to dye them back to OEM look. I'd also be taking out my seats, vacuuming them, vacuuming my interior (seatless), and scrubbing both and using some of that sealent recommended at Better Car Care to make sure they stay nice.



Is steam cleaning my interior carpet and seats a good idea?
 
What everyone else said.



Steam cleaning your interior is a good idea. It really adds the finishing touch to a detailed car. I pull my seats out to do the entire carpet, and do the seats in the living room (so I can have the TV on). You'd be surprised what lurks in the carpet under seats (not to mention a possible source of odor).

Try to keep the water use to a minimum to help speed drying. And remember that it's actually the "extraction phase" that gets things clean. Keep sucking till nothing else comes out. This can be time consuming, especially if you use too much solution. And keep in mind that the foam of the seats will soak the solution up pretty good. But I can't stress enough that this sucking is what removes the crud and odors.

You can use a spot cleaner if needed; I've used Simple Green at 6-1 (water to SG) and also Woolite at 6-1 (water to Woolite). Both work well. Test all chemicals in an inconspicuous area first for colorfastness. I treat spots first, then steam clean like normal.

I Scotch-guard mine when completely dry. I then allow it to dry overnight before I drive anywhere. I don't think sniffing Scotch-guard in an enclosed area is good for you! But it sure does help prevent stains and makes future cleanings easier!



Good luck.



Dave
 
Logik- I dunno if I'd use Gold Class on top of NXT. As I recall, GC has some (mild) cleaners in it, so they might compromise your NXT. *I* would just do the NXT, then another application of NXT after the next wash, and THEN see if you want to top it. And maybe consider (as you like Meg's stuff) either #26 (darker look) or #16 (brighter/more reflective look, more durable, self-cleaning in rain) for your topper. #16 is a LOT like S100, and *I* generally prefer the #16, especially if you care about durability.
 
Accumulator said:
Logik- I dunno if I'd use Gold Class on top of NXT. As I recall, GC has some (mild) cleaners in it, so they might compromise your NXT. *I* would just do the NXT, then another application of NXT after the next wash, and THEN see if you want to top it. And maybe consider (as you like Meg's stuff) either #26 (darker look) or #16 (brighter/more reflective look, more durable, self-cleaning in rain) for your topper. #16 is a LOT like S100, and *I* generally prefer the #16, especially if you care about durability.
Click to expand...



What he said...you might want to lok at the #81 for your polishing step
 
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