advice for bringing back this dead 92 S-10 paint

tommyortom

New member
a friend just bought this truck for 100 bucks..it runs and isnt in too bad of shape mechanically. the paint is just flat faded to hell and there is rust everywhere in the typical spots for the 1st gen S-10's.



He brought it over and I quickly washed the hood, clayed it, then tried SSR 2.5 with a yellow propel pad on my PC. This is the most aggressive combo that I have. I only spent about 10-15 minutes on half of the hood, and i did see an improvement...but im sure it can get better with more aggressive pads and compounds.



what pad should i get for my PC to get this? i was planning on a orange propel or maybe even a wool pad? he has some 3M rubbing compound stuff in a huge industrial size bottle from a body shop...i think it is pink or peach? is this stuff stronger than SSR 2.5? If not, what should I get?



Here are a few pictures of the truck...you can see the half of the hood that I worked on. I've probably done about 7-8 different cars, but this is the oldest and worst condition paint. It was the only vehicle that left paint all over my pad.....it came right off though. we were both more suprised that the paint is actually a metallic blue haha.



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I would try AIO first before anything else, even before clay. The AIO will cut and remove the oxidation so you can work on the paint itself. I'd go with AIO (x2 if needed), SSR 2.5, then see what your left to work with. I have a 1st-gen S-10 and AIO cut through the oxidation nicely.
 
Reflections said:
Good luck. That rust is going to need some serious polishing :soscared:

haha...the rust is gonna stay, were not touching any of that.



and do you apply AIO any differently than applying a regular polish? what type of pad should i use?
 
A polishing pad should do just fine with AIO. Afterall, it's a chemical cleaner, so abrasiveness is not necessary.
 
TnM6i said:
A polishing pad should do just fine with AIO. Afterall, it's a chemical cleaner, so abrasiveness is not necessary.

which polishing pad? just like a green propel?



and what order does this go in when using AIO or a cleaner? AIO, then most aggresive polish, then least aggresive polish?
 
For oxidation that bad, I would do AIO by hand to keep your pad from getting all nasty. Then go over it with your machin followed up by a light polish. See where that puts you. If you're not there yet, change to a more aggressive pad or a more aggressive product. Then top it as you see fit.
 
Mark77 said:
I would worry more about the rust than the oxidation on the paint :soscared: :bolt

my firend really doesnt give a **** about the truck. it was 100 bucks...im just doing this for fun....and he said he wouldnt mind if i tried to bring whats left of the body back to life haha.
 
Don't they sell Bondo and auto paint at Wal-Mart now? Learn on the S-10 and maybe next time you get a ding, you can fix it yourself.
 
That truck is such a fun project. I also agree, AIO first. Then SSR2.5 with the yellow pad. Because there is probably no more clear if it was 2-pak paint, you'll be treating it similar to a single stage. So after 2.5, finish with SSR1 and the blue propel. Then apply a glaze. Have fun watching the paint absorb the oils. After the glaze, I'd apply a sealant.
 
strat81 said:
Don't they sell Bondo and auto paint at Wal-Mart now? Learn on the S-10 and maybe next time you get a ding, you can fix it yourself.

I know how to do body work already, but my friend just doesnt give a **** about this truck. It was 100 bucks and hes just going to keep it until it dies haha.
 
wildboar said:
I wouldn't get too excited about spending a lot of $ on a $100 truck. Grab the $7.49 bottle of ColorX and go at it.



See this thread:

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=88

well the only things i was planning on buying is AIO and a orange pad or a wool pad. i will use them in future, so its not like im buying them for this truck only.



and that bronco was in alot better of shape than this s10 is in. the s10 has NO depth or reflection at all. it is completely flat haha.
 
Id use 3m fine cut rubbing compound first, 3m finesse it 2, then follow up with a wax. I would also use a rotary buffer if you have access to it, as this will make the job easy as hell and more fun(i like using the makita better than the pc)!!!!
 
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