Adding a wide stripe

they both can have their advantages



but in certain cases that I find one better than other (and I'm only going to list some of the instances where IMO mf is better, duh ;))



-wiping down your dash lint free (cotton lints white)

-wiping your instrument panel scratch free (cotton on clear plastic)

-wiping your wood trim, chrome trim and plastic

-cleaning interior windows and mirror (a spritz of water and 1 towel and it shines without chemicals lint free)



-mf towels can last for months and up to 300 washes if taken care of



-drying a car



-once you find a supplier you like it should remain consitant or comparable



-decreases chances of scratching during quick detailing



-dust pickup in general (use a cotton cloth and you need something like Pledge) use a mf and you don't even need water.



with any towel cotton or mf it's about quality and trying to keep the quality consistent, that's the most difficult part
 
I've always been told to avoid anything not made in the USA. Even MF towels that are made over seas. What is the opinon on that? A guy I buy Zaino from sells DF towells. They are no doubt great, but how do they compare to say a Mequiars Ultra Soft Terry Cloth MF towel or Mequiars MF regular towell that are made in china? Is this really that much of an issue? I just can't see the Mequiars MF towels scratching the paint just bc they are not 100% made in the USA cotton.
 
Microfiber is much more absorbent due to higher surface area and higher "porosity" (not exactly the right word).

Compare the fabrics to soils:



Clay soils are comprised of very small particles (think of tiny MF fibers). They have tons of microscopic pore space (like MF) and can pull large amounts of water upward by capillary action. They also hold water very well.



Sandy soils are comprised of relatively large particles (think of large cotton fibers). They have larger pores, and cannot hold as much water, or attract/hold water like clay (MF) can.



If you go outside after a heavy rain, you'll find that any sand you pick up will weigh about the same as when you pick it up a week later after no rain at all. The clay, however, will be very heavy due to all the water it's holding onto.



Also, the more surface area, the more charges are on the fibers to attract and hold water.



Holy cow I just realized how old this thread was!
 
I'm sneezing over here from all the dust kicked up by unearthing this old thread. Although, it was interesting reading the "fear of something new" in some of these old threads. It's amazing how most people cling to old habits.
 
There are as many 'weave variations' in MF towels as there are in pure cotton towels.



Plush is good for paint care... wax removal, etc. Flat nap is great for windows...



I've been lucky enough to have had a client (Celadon/Calderon) who is a MAJOR textile importer. He's given me samples of of some cool towels that most of us won't see for years. He's also given me interesting insights; Costco cares only about price - won't listen to the quality story... On the other hand, Walmart/Sam's needs demos,facts, analysis, etc.



No mention here recently of the "CD Test" (SEARCH), the "Burn Test" (SEARCH).



FYI, in volume (150), I pay $1.82 (each, including tax & shipping) for very nice MF Towels.



Jim
 
Hello to everyone. I am not an auto detailer but came here hoping your expertise would help me. I have an 18 ft Stingray boat that I am going to put a wide stripe on. It will be installed below the rubrail and will run from bow to stern. The bow and stern measurments from rub rail to the first rib of the boat are 8 inches. The center of the boat has a measurement of 11 inches from the rail to the rib. I could very easily stick an 8 inch piece across the boat following the rub rail but when stingray does it they follow the rib. My question is this.....Is there a way to accurately run the vinyl long past this rib and then cut it say a half inch above the rib? I thought about hooking my finger under the rib and following along with an exacto knife but I am not sure about staying accurate. I didn't know how the pros would do it and thought there may be a tool or tecnique to it. Also is there some kind of backing paper I would use behind the vinyl to avoid cutting into the gel coat? Any help you may offer would be greatly appreciated? The material I have is reflective Oracel 5300 and it is 24 inches wide.
Thanks again.
Mike
 
Back
Top