Hi David
you know how pedantic and fussy I am about the polishes I use
my main concern with them is that many use cheap solvents and other lubricants
I am really interested in trying these as I'm set with the two polishes I use but I do need a better compound than I'm currently using as it has abrasives I can feel and their sharp as which I dont like and it's only saving grace is that it is water based so it cannot put burn marks in the paint. however it still struggles with deep marks and sanding marks as its the old type abrasives that need heat to start working ie rotary 1500 rpm and I want to get away from that
I use compounds only for sanding marks or if someone has used a kitchen scourer to remove a bird dropping or tar which happened last week in fact
anyhow I have a few questions to ask
when will the msds sheet be available?
I need to see what type of lubricants/solvents are in there so I know that I'm not buying a product that's loaded with cheap solvents like many are
I dont use products containing stoddard solvent/naptha, kerosene or glycerin or the carcinogenic siloxane solvents from the skin care industry that 3M uses in one of theirs
the siloxane ones are a higher quality than stoddard which dries out too fast but I wont use something thats carcinogenic
2. does the AAT compound and the polish film nicely on the surface with a nice transparent film from start to finish so I can see the swirls and scratches being removed as I work the surface?
I ask this because one thing I hate is compounds and polishes that start cloudy and finish transparent (emulsion break), mine are clear from start to finish and the film of polish stays wet on the surface without being overly oily (no glycerin in the formula of those I use)
3. Is it a true water based formula in which when I spray water on the surface that has polish on it, the water washes the product down to nothing and wipes away totally so I can remove any dried polish from the paint or exterior trim instantly. ie will the polish not stick like concrete to the paint like old school solvent based compounds and polishes did
4. If I accidently run my pad over the exterior trim will it cause the trim to turn white?
What I currently use does not do this and actually polishes the trim regardless of material type even textured bumpers as its water based and rolling abrasive not sharply faced ones
5. Alot of compounds actually rip and tear at the paint when correcting it which then leads to marring from virtually any pad type and technique thus why they dont work on soft paints. What I use rolls over the paint and the abrasives are SMAT and DAT combined
6. This chemical booster sounds interesting, I've been told that kerosene in polishes can soften the paint which allows it to correct faster but Im not a fan of that idea. I have a chemical additive that I use with polish to do some proprietary things to the paint which are very beneficial.
the fact that you say the abrasives in these two products dont tear away at the paint is very good to hear as Ive tested 125 brands of detailing products over the last twenty two years and the two things I hate about conventional polishes/compounds are gougy teary abrasives and cheap solvents which reduces the gloss that can be achieved from them vs water based polishes which will leave a far better richer color and the fact that poor quality solvents in many actually dry out fast and then take the other lubricants away with them and then a foam pad increase the risk of leaving a burn mark in the paint especially from rotary use as the pad has no lubrication from the lubricants being taken away all of a sudden
not only that but some solvents can break down the binders in the paint over time with regular use, my cars paint is like glue now to polish because of using a certain range of polishes that are heavily solvent based (circa 2004) and very popular in USA
what I use is burn mark proof and the only one I know of.
I am sorry to ask so many technical questions but I do not buy a product unless I've read the MSDS sheet and investigated some technical things so I know that the ingredients that I hate with a passion are not in the formula. if they are I dont buy them.
In recent years I've been taught by two chemists in the automotive industry about what each ingredient in detailing products are and which ones are good and bad and what they are in the formula to do.
If there are certain solvents and other ingredients I dislike that are in a product, I will not purchase them
Im not here to steal formula's, I just need to know that I'm not polishing paint with a formula that contains ingredients which will cause filling or break the paint down over time like kerosene and others can or that contain certain solvents which will dry out too quick and risk paint burning
If these two products are not totally water based, will there come a time where the 3D or HD line contains any that will be
We do not need solvents anymore to wash away abraded colored paint anymore as we have clear coat paints and a proper polish formula does not need EDTA and certain solvents to hold it all together.
Oh and would 3D ever consider going away from aluminium oxide to a different oxide type for super hard paints or for certain conditions?
Thanks
Matt - Here's the answers to some of your questions. Please let me know if you need further clearification.
MSDS sheets will be available once the products go on sale. Check out
3D Professional Detailing Products | Auto Detail | Supplies | Car Care for updates. Our abrasives were specifically selected for these products because our main target market is the paint & body industry. Because paint is typically fresh (a few days old), it poses several different obstacles that make our AAT system more desirable. People think fresh paint is easier to work on, but we at 3D disagree. Because of its age, these finishes gouge easier and are more difficult to finish clearly out on. These abrasives (along with the chemical additive) gently level defects from this soft, almost rubbery paint and do not gouge/dig into the surface. And is why the finish after compounding is not as hazy as most others compounds on the market.
1-there is no harsh solvents ....period and no siloxanes. And we don't use glycerin either. The solvent we use is a very high quality and safe. That makes it a little more expensive. However the percentage is very low. Therefore it is more of a "Water based" product.
2-It is a creamy smooth liquid so it's as transparent as it could be. Unless you use too much product, there shouldn't be any issues seeing through the slurry. It also wipes off very easy, has a very user friendly work time and will not wipe out trim.
3-Clean up, as mentioned above, is very easy. Stripping the surface making it 100% bare isn't an obstacle. Body shops, because they have a tendency of heavy product sling, can opt to do a rinse down with water to remove their debris. Detailers, who are more controlled in their buffing, can wipe down with IPA and expect a bare finish. Our biggest point is that it does not contain any fillers. Not even the super durable ones that some feel they need over cleaner to remove. Any oils , waxes and even glycerin can fool the polisher that the job is perfect. But once you wipe with alcohol everything comes back. And if you followed/attended the SEMA Buff-Off you would know this too as most of the attendee's product's filled.
4- Answered above.
5- Answered above.
6- No kerosene here... Mechanical polishing can take you so far . A booster increases the efficacy of the same abrasives. That is the whole premise behind AAT.