Acid Rain Protection?

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Glossy McGlosserton

New member
I was at the Honda dealer today, and on the sales desk was a laminated map of the US, showing acid rain concentrations. My area in NC was one of the four worst areas in the US! Well, this explains why, having no garage, my cars end up having water spots that are etched in, beyond removal by OC, for example.



I've been using Z2 for the past four or five years, and it hasn't formed a good barrier against the water etching, IMO.



Does anyone have recommendations on products that can really help protect against acid rain? The write up on the back of the card said that research on protection of car finishes is being done, and that some products and paints appear to withstand acid rain much better than others.



Anyone here at Autopia have some info to share?
 
I dont think there is any realistic approach to protection against acid rain etching.



I'm sure someone can give you a 300 step process to rinse the car after every rain with reverse osmosis water and freshly boiled waffle weaves soaked in distilled white vinegar, but I think you are SOL if the Z2 sealant isn't working as you need for the amount of applications and cleaning you are willing to commit to.
 
If it was me i would try a sealant like Menzerna FMJ then apply the z2. My truck spends a decent amout of time in South Carolina at the beach where you get all that salty water which etches the paint when dried once the hot summer sun comes out, and the FMJ topped with z2 seems to hold up pretty well. I do apply the z2 every month or two also. I am going to try the Wolfgang Sealant as i just received a bottle in the mail, but i have never tried that or topping that with z2. we will see how that holds up, if it even comes out right.
 
My memory is that Wolfgang has some waxes, which compromises the bonding of the Z2. But give it a try and see what you think.



So you feel that FMJ is more protective than Z?



I'm wondering if some products are slightly alkaline, and therefore protect against acid etching better?
 
A number of people have complained about z2 and z5 lack of protection against waterspotting. I have never found this. However, thats much different than acid rain.



If it were me, I would lay down a coat of z5 and top it with a heavy paste like #16, 476/885, 1000P/PinkWax, Danase Paste/XXX, etc. From my gathering of info, the thickest barrier possible *should* help to create some surface protection.
 
Funny thing is that ALOT of brand new cars are already riddled with acid rain etching. Most people don't examine their finish close enough or know how to spot it. One of the 1st things that should be done is a good claying and/or decon-ing. After that, keep a fresh coat of sealant on the finish and try to wash off rain water ASAP. Some times people don't think about the cities/states where cars are produced, (Michigan being one) which is where it could all start. Imagine a brand new car freshly painted getting parked outside the assembly plant being rained on for days before it gets transported to the dealer where it sits for months on end not being washed. An accident waiting to happen. :har:
 
I find the only protection for acid ran is frequent washing and waxing. It doesn't seem to make much difference whether you use a sealant or a carnauba if you wax often. I'd also use a wax/sealant booster after the regular weekly wash. If you have to leave your car parked outside use of a car cover will also make a big difference.
 
David - as an adjuster, I'm sure you see your share of etched cars. I remember a few examples of aluminum Acura NSX deck lids and hoods back in the early 90's that had etching so bad. Chubb paid us to strip to bare metal then give an alkaline bath and refinish. Etching was so bad it came back when we just sanded, primed, and and refinshed.



Got to love doing business with Chubb. Its like paying $1200 to have your car detailed, no matter what your problems are they are there to fix.
 
Wow. I've yet to witness damage severe enough that needed you to go to bare metal. Ouch!



I friend of mine is a regional reinspector for Chubb. Their adjuster's are considered the Santa Clause's of the insurance industry. Ask and ye shall receive. Lots of interesting clients are insured with them.
 
David Fermani said:
Wow. I've yet to witness damage severe enough that needed you to go to bare metal. Ouch!



I friend of mine is a regional reinspector for Chubb. Their adjuster's are considered the Santa Clause's of the insurance industry. Ask and ye shall receive. Lots of interesting clients are insured with them.
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They are!!! I love(d) Chubb! God bless Chubb and its clients premiums!



Cool example.



My house cost me $1200 per year to insure through Liberty Mutual, never made a claim in my life, this is cheap.



Chubb $5500!!! Granted it covers a ton of stuff that I dont have like $50,000 in china, and other niceties. What a dream though..
 
Sherri Zann said:
My memory is that Wolfgang has some waxes, which compromises the bonding of the Z2. But give it a try and see what you think.



So you feel that FMJ is more protective than Z?



I'm wondering if some products are slightly alkaline, and therefore protect against acid etching better?
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As far as protection length i think that the Z is far better than the FMJ. I just feel that it gives a sort of protective barrier to the clear coat before adding the Z
 
:think2 I might get zapped for saying this but...for me sealants don't protect against acid rain and bird bombs the way something like 476 or 16 will.
 
Gears said:
:think2 I might get zapped for saying this but...for me sealants don't protect against acid rain and bird bombs the way something like 476 or 16 will.
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it must be something in the rain around here in Pa. because I agree with you

nothing works like #16 for me
 
Even normal rain can cause that. The best defence against that is three to four coats of a sealant and a few of wax as well (to absorb the rain spots and leave a just washed look)

Ever since moving to Permagard, Glare, Driven and Toughseal sealants, I've never had a problem with anything etching to the car.



The only dilemna is heavy dust. I don't think there is much to stop that around here in dry south australia except a trip to the local pro wash every week.
 
best protection from acid rain is to rinse off your car after the rain stops :woot2:





its probably difficult though if your not detailing cars everyday
 
jfelbab said:
I find the only protection for acid ran is frequent washing and waxing. It doesn't seem to make much difference whether you use a sealant or a carnauba if you wax often. I'd also use a wax/sealant booster after the regular weekly wash. If you have to leave your car parked outside use of a car cover will also make a big difference.
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I totally agree. Constant bombardment requires constant protection. This is not a condition that requires a specific product so much as a specific regiman. Like for example, Do your initial correction and polish, then use a high quality sealant like 2 coats of OS 12 hours apart, then lay down some OCW or other carnuba, etc. Then for your maint wash with ONR which itself leaves some minor polymer protection itself, follow this with a QD while you dry and then like every 2-3 washes add another coat of OCW. I'm sure you could use any brand of comparable stuff, but I gave Optimum as examples because I like them and the stuff couldn't be much quicker or easier to use. Just stay after it like weeds in a garden or dieting to see your abs. Its not one of those set it and forget it type conditions. You can even use the OCW between the ONR wash and the ONR drying steps if your in a hurry. I hope this helps.:2thumbs:
 
BigJimZ28 said:
it must be something in the rain around here in Pa. because I agree with you

nothing works like 476 or #16 for me
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Third that. I haven't had the best results with Z products and water rings. Doubt it is acid rain around here but have ran into the problem.
 
I'm surprised no one else has mentioned this, but I find that Z is more prone to water-spotting problems (which would include acid rain damage) simply because the beading is just crazy so the beads tend to stay on the car under certain situations.
 
It's been my experience that carnauba wax's will protect better then most sealants against water spots, bird bombs, bug splatter and tree sap. Of course you have to apply it more often then you would a sealant because it isn't as durable. I use both, because I like the look and I get the benefit of the added protection.
 
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