Abused Black T100...Not There yet!

H

HiSurfTension

New member
Hi All,

Here are some photos of my 1995 Toyota T100 Black hood (single stage) as I took it through what I had. I didn't have all of the products I wanted yet, but I couldn't wait any longer.

Here's what I tried.
Washed
Clayed
SSR2 (PC..spread on 2, worked on 5-6)
P21S GEPC (PC...spread on 2, worked on 5-6)

You'll see some big improvement, but lots of problems left.

Here's the wash and clay.
 
Will SSR3 get me closer as far as the remaining scratches and water spots?

I also found some etched spots that must have happened over the winter ....this puppy may just have to be repainted if I keep it.

Thanks for any advice.
 
HiSurfTension said:
OK. So how big of an area should this amount of SSR2 cover? I think I'm overusing.
Click to expand...
I happen to Use Meg's #9 and I put drops/globs of it on the pad, but...... what you have on the pad looks like enough to do at least 1/2, maybe more of my vehicles.
Maybe try one line of product, or even 1/2 a line and work a section about 2' x2' and see how it looks.
I use about three dime sized drops of #9 for the hood for instance. Same amount for the front fender and the door. Once the pad is wet with the product it probably takes even less.
One disclaimer. I am not working with a really bad surface to start with so it takes less product and doesn't need to be worked as long as you probably need.

Charles
 
It looks like there is more marring after the SSR2, could just be the pic...
I think you need to follow up SSR2 with something stronger like PP, or SSR1. I think GEPC was too weak of a product to finish off with, it is basically just cleaners.

Hope that helps..
 
eggroll said:
...I think you need to follow up SSR2 with something stronger like PP, or SSR1. I think GEPC was too weak of a product to finish off with, it is basically just cleaners.

Hope that helps.. [/B]
Click to expand...

SSR3 would be stronger but PP(no abrasives) and SSR1(mild abrasives) are stepping down in agressiveness.
 
Some of what I see is not going to come out....some of those etchings look deep and those specs I'm figuring are paint chips...the paint is now approaching 10 years old and I'm guessing it spent a lot of time outdoors not garaged:( do the best you can and the amount you have on that pad should do more than an entire hood.
Also remember you don't have a paint thickness guage and unless you are ready to repaint, don't over polish it with very abrasive products like SSR3....hope I could help:)
 
nthngd2say: I meant SSR1 and PP are stronger than GECP, wouldn't know what to use for the waterspots though. Just referring to the remaining swirls
 
Thanks for the advice everyone. That's what I was looking for. I knew I was using too much just from reading here (and the directions), but it didn't look like I was doing anything with just a "dime" size on one of my quarter panels. Probably wasn't making a quick difference on a surface this bad.

Your right, Steve, this poor truck was outdoors...not too mention that I didn't find the "detail religion" until it was too late. I was just wondering whether SSR3 might get those water spots out, but thanks for the warning of the paint thickness.

Eggroll, I've read in here that some think GEPC is similar to SSR1...and I had GEPC. After following the SSR2, I was wondering the same thing about it's "strength". Thanks.
I need to get the full range of products and then do what I can. If nothing else, maybe it will help the trade-in value.


By the way, anyone have any guidelines on how much time a 2'x2' section should take to do the "normal" crosshatch pattern? I seem to be taking about 1 minute. Should I be guiding the PC Slower?

I appreciate the help.
 
HiSurfTension said:

By the way, anyone have any guidelines on how much time a 2'x2' section should take to do the "normal" crosshatch pattern? I seem to be taking about 1 minute. Should I be guiding the PC Slower?
Click to expand...

when i did a black f250 a few weeks ago I spent around 5-10 minutes on that size area....there's no hurry for a job you want done right....especially if it's yours:D
 
Poorboy,

You say that should do the whole hood. I must be wasting alot of product then. When I use DACP i put 4 nickle size drops on the pad. I do this 4 times to be able to complete a whole hood. Is this tooooooooooo much.

Brian
 
Good question runnerbl.

Steve, I need to do some more reading then. Did you mean 5-10 minutes for each product? Or for a full series? I was just talking about each product. If you're doing 5-10 minutes for each product on a 2'x2', that F250 (I think you posted pictures on that one) must have taken you a ridiculously long time.

Do you recommend "the pattern"? (cross diagonals, verticals, horizontals and finishing in the "flow direction"?)

I have a lot to learn.
 
runnerbl said:
Poorboy,

You say that should do the whole hood. I must be wasting alot of product then. When I use DACP i put 4 nickle size drops on the pad. I do this 4 times to be able to complete a whole hood. Is this tooooooooooo much.

Brian
Click to expand...

yes those 4 nickels will do the entire hood..you're using too much!:D

Steve, I need to do some more reading then. Did you mean 5-10 minutes for each product? yes for each SSR product if you really want to get them out with a pc...we are not talking rotary here.:)

I was just talking about each product. If you're doing 5-10 minutes for each product on a 2'x2', that F250 (I think you posted pictures on that one) must have taken you a ridiculously long time.

yes...a few hours for 2.5 and then SSR1..it's not rediculous if you get the desired results:D

Do you recommend "the pattern"? (cross diagonals, verticals, horizontals and finishing in the "flow direction"?)

yes i often do that for badly swirled or damaged paint...if they swirls are light then just back and forth with the wind flow:bigups
 
Wow. This was some really good and timely info for me as well. The black Yukon I'm doing today is really bad. I'm going to take some before pics here shortly. I wouldn't have worked the SSR2 long enough Steve if you hadn't mentioned this.

On my new vehicles with light cob-webbing, I think I could back it down in time and use the SSR1.

Good thread and info.

Oh and HiSurfTension - it looks to me like there were great improvements from the work you did on it. I hope I can do as well today as you did! :)
 
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