A couple weird problems - What am I doing wrong???

I

ikellen

New member
So I am an amatuer detailer (weekend warrior) and I have yet to really perfect my methods. I dont really have a full quiver of tools to work with, but I get by with what I have. Here is my current method I use on my car (1999 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport):



1. Wash w/ Mr. Clean Autodry, scrubbing with chenille wash mit

2. Dry with Absorber

3. Clay - Mothers yellow clay bay, Mothers quick detail spray for lube. After finishing a section, dry and buff with a MF cloth.

4. NXT wax, applied with foam applicator, buffed off with MF cloth



So here are my problems/questions:



1. I get what I think people refer to as "Orange Peel" where the paint reflection has a dotted, smudgy image, instead of a clear reflection. I have never figured out how to remedy this and would really like to.



2. Today, after I finished removing the wax, I found these streaks that looked like drying liquid. However, they wouldn't go away. It almost seems like they're trapped under the wax. I mostly saw them on the hood.



3. I am interested in finding a better way to wash. I've been using the Mr. Clean product because I like the filtering mode to help prevent water spotting, and their soap cleans pretty well. I think I want to switch over to a bucket method, but I've always been unsure as to how to do it without leaving dirt in the wash mit.



4. Am I applying/removing the wax correctly? Also, whats the proper way to apply with the foam applicator? I usually just smear the wax in circles, but I've heard there is a better way........any tips?



Thanks guys, the work I see here is amazing, so if I could only be half as good as you are, I'd be a happy man :)
 
1. Orange peel cannot be cured without wetsanding. Should be done by someone with a lot of experience and you will need a rotary or awesome PC skills. This is something most just learn to live with.



2. The drying liquid could be many things. From your process my guess is that it is left-over clay residue. I would recommend instead of using the clay lube to



1. Wash car.

2. Use car wash soap and water mix to "lube" the clay.

3. Spray off and rinse.



All of this should remove any clay residue and the car wash lube works a lot better to not leaving clay residue than the lube does.



3. Look into the 2-bucket method. Do a search for more info.



4. You want to use as little wax as possible, aka, putting the thinnest layer onto the paint. Anymore is just a waste. Applying in circles in not recommended because this creates the swirls that many fight to get rid of. Most recommend applying in straight back and forth motion. Remember, thin is the win.



Hope I helped and someone can fix my info or add because I am a newbie myself. :welcome
 
I pretty much only use car shampoo to clay. I have yet to find a BIG benefit in the lube. I do wash the car again when I am done.
 
ikellen said:
anyone tried the car wash for clay lube method? How did it work for you?
Click to expand...



Welcome to Autopia!



Some clays tend to dissolve in the wash solution. After doing it that way for quite a while, I've gone back to using the dedicated lube. When you're doing extensive claying, I believe the lube is best. For light work, the wash solution should be fine, but keep an eye on the clay for signs of trouble.



There are different levels of wash techniques you might look into, all of which are truly too involved for me to post about here. From simple to complex a few are: two bucket method, two bucket method with foamgun, my "extreme wash technique" (see Hall of Fame forum), same thing only with foamgun.



The streaks sound like the finish wasn't quite prepped right before you applied the NXT. Maybe try a paint cleaner or polish before using the NXT.



Can't really help with the NXT as I don't use it, sorry.
 
If I'm going to clay I fill up my wash bucket, add car wash soap, and then fill a spray bottle from the wash bucket before washing my car. After washing, I leave it wet and use the clean soapy water as a clay lube. I use a ton more soapy water than I ever when I used the QD that came with the clay, probably minimizing the risk of scratching that much more. Never had a problem with Meguiar's clay falling apart.
 
Remember the Mr Clean soap has some type of wax solution (similar to automatic car washes ) added to it. It can reak havoc on amy product you are trying to seal over it.

The rinse feature is nice but if you are into detailing stay away from the soap.
 
The Mr. Clean soap contains a polymer rinse aid to help sheet the rinse water. The polymer tends to leave a tacky film on the paint and tends to remain there until a rain or you rewash your car. I too would recommend ditching the Mr. Clean soap for a carwash soap that doesn't contain a polymeric rinse aid prior to using your choice of wax or sealant.
 
Sweet, thanks for the advice. Any advice on a paint cleaner? I've never really used something like that so I would tend to think my paint could use it. Also, do you guys have any advice on washing a car during the day and preventing premature drying? Im in Southern California, and it is rarely cool or overcast enough to wash a car without constantly having the hose on it. Do awnings or coverings work?
 
I've been using Mr. Clean for almost two years and do not have the problems others state about the residue. I believe you can safely use it. I have experimented in the process quite a bit. I've even used Meguiar's Deep Crystal in the tank without clogging (however, you will want to empty the Mr. Clean soap out first and rinse before putting Deep Crystal in). However, the Mr. Clean soap definately aids in the drying process. What I now do is to use the Mr. Clean soap in the tank but use only a small amount on each section prior to washing. Then I have other soap (currently using Meguiars Gold Class) in a bucket to wash with. To prevent the residue problem, I think it is very important to rinse very well before doing the final de-ion rinse. Within 90 minutes, I have a clean, dry, and spot free car.
 
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