A couple Q's to help me out with my first detailing project

M

MDetail

The DETAILS count. ;)
First off this project is an 88 Mazda RX-7, Sunrise Red, Orig. Paint. It has Med. Swirling, and (what I think is oxidation) Small dots all over the paint. I am using a PC 7424 w/ Wolfgang Pads (I think WG backing pad also.) I got the set from Autogeek.

Here is the game plan so far: Please tell me if I will be doing something wrong. (Keep in mind, he hasnt washed the car in atleast 9 months. And he only gets the car washed at the local car wash.)
PB Bug Wash
Meg Crystal Wash
Mothers Clay Bar
Meg. Crystal Wash Again
PB SSR3 w/ Light Cutting Pad
PB SSR2 w/ Polish Pad
PB SSR1 w/Polish Pad
PB Pro Polish w/Finish Pad
PB EX


1) Are Wolfgang pads the same as Lake Country? I thought the set I had ordered was the Lake Country Combo set, but I ended up with ones that say WolfGang. But maybe they are the same thing?

2) When using PoorBoys Pro Polish, how long is sufficient time? I was at it polishing w/ a black finishing pad for about 3-5 mins. When I thought I was finished, I went to wipe off the polish let on the car, and my MF towel kept getting stuck on the hood. As if the polish were still wet. I couldnt buff it out like normal. I had to wipe the section down, and then try to buff it. I started on speed 1, and worked my way slowly (or what I thought was slowly) to speed 6. Am I doing something wrong here?

3) This may be hard to explain. My co-workers car (88 rx-7) has black moldings. I used PB Trim Restore on there, but looks like the trim was oxidized. No matter how much TR I put on there, it still looks more dull than the rest, and it has a rough texture. Is there anyway I can fix this? wetsand, clear, etc?

4) Is it possible, or are there any benefits to using polish / wax on glass?

5) Does anyone know any good items to fix rips in vinyl on old seats?

I probably have more, but right now its 11:36 and I've been working too hard on moving shops.
 
I can't answer all your questions--it's too early here.

2) That's strange with the PB PP. Perhaps you've used way too much--Steve mentioned a learning curve elsewhere.

3) Someone has polished your friend's car and burnt the moldings, probably with a wool pad. I know of nothing that would fix it, but would love to know.

4) Polish on glass can clean up spots, but there are better ways. Do a search, but some use 0000 steel wool & 50:50 vinegar to clean up old glass.
 
1: The Wolfgang Pads are Manufactured by LC just with their logo on it.

2: A little of the PP goes a long way- so I assume you used too much.

PEI covered the other bases- Not sure about the vinyl issue... there have been a couple of products on infomertials that said something about it in the past I believe. Good luck!
 
revautousa said:
PB Bug Wash
Meg Crystal Wash
Mothers Clay Bar
Meg. Crystal Wash Again
PB SSR3 w/ Light Cutting Pad
PB SSR2 w/ Polish Pad
PB SSR1 w/Polish Pad
PB Pro Polish w/Finish Pad
PB EX
Click to expand...

Overkill for a single stage paint job....you won't need SSR3 or the Pro Polish. you might also substitute SSR2.5 for the SSR2


1) Are Wolfgang pads the same as Lake Country? I thought the set I had ordered was the Lake Country Combo set, but I ended up with ones that say WolfGang. But maybe they are the same thing?
Click to expand...

Yes they are the same:yes:

2) When using PoorBoys Pro Polish, how long is sufficient time? I was at it polishing w/ a black finishing pad for about 3-5 mins. When I thought I was finished, I went to wipe off the polish let on the car, and my MF towel kept getting stuck on the hood. As if the polish were still wet. I couldnt buff it out like normal. I had to wipe the section down, and then try to buff it. I started on speed 1, and worked my way slowly (or what I thought was slowly) to speed 6. Am I doing something wrong here?
Click to expand...

You used way too much product and should have spread it out much further . Also use a polishing pad no a finishing pad with PP. If you do use too much, then the best thing to do is let it dry and then buff off.

3) This may be hard to explain. My co-workers car (88 rx-7) has black moldings. I used PB Trim Restore on there, but looks like the trim was oxidized. No matter how much TR I put on there, it still looks more dull than the rest, and it has a rough texture. Is there anyway I can fix this? wetsand, clear, etc?
Click to expand...

I think Brenton covered this, the trim is probably too far gone to be brought back being that that the car is 18 years old and not been very well maintained

4) Is it possible, or are there any benefits to using polish / wax on glass?
Click to expand...

yes, Pro Polish or even SSR2 can help clear the glass, it won't remove pitting but it can make it easier to look through

5) Does anyone know any good items to fix rips in vinyl on old seats?
Click to expand...

Sorry no quick fixes here, either have the vinyl replaced or live with it
 
1) Are Wolfgang pads the same as Lake Country? I thought the set I had ordered was the Lake Country Combo set, but I ended up with ones that say WolfGang. But maybe they are the same thing?

-Yes, I have a set and they are the same as my LC pads.

2) When using PoorBoys Pro Polish, how long is sufficient time? I was at it polishing w/ a black finishing pad for about 3-5 mins. When I thought I was finished, I went to wipe off the polish let on the car, and my MF towel kept getting stuck on the hood. As if the polish were still wet. I couldnt buff it out like normal. I had to wipe the section down, and then try to buff it. I started on speed 1, and worked my way slowly (or what I thought was slowly) to speed 6. Am I doing something wrong here?

-A little pro polish goes A LONG way. Search the Poorboys forum for tips. I don't use it on paint very often, and when I do it's usually by hand.

p.s. -PP cleans glass & chrome, wheels VERY well.


3) This may be hard to explain. My co-workers car (88 rx-7) has black moldings. I used PB Trim Restore on there, but looks like the trim was oxidized. No matter how much TR I put on there, it still looks more dull than the rest, and it has a rough texture. Is there anyway I can fix this? wetsand, clear, etc?

Top of the line sells a trim/moulding restoration kit (or you can buy just the ones you need). It works very well. If the trim has been leveled down a bit and has 'buffer burn', there's not a whole lot you can do. You could call a junk yard to see if they can locate a replacement, or order a new piece.

4) Is it possible, or are there any benefits to using polish / wax on glass?

-See above. #000 & vinegar would be my first step.

PP on glass works well (chemical cleaner) Put some sealer on the glass to finish up.


5) Does anyone know any good items to fix rips in vinyl on old seats?

-IMO, your best best would be to take it to a local shop for an estimate or look for a set of aftermarket seat covers.

A few more tips based on my uses:

-Leave the SSR 3 on the shelf unless you ABSOLUTELY have to use it. If you haven't used it before, I'd find something to practice on because it levels quick, and if you don't use it correct, you'll be chasing around marring issues.

-Personally I would start with SSR2.5 on a DRY polishing pad (the white one). Work in the polish @ 5-5.5 on your PC. When SSR breaks down you'll notice that it turns clear. If you break it down too far, you'll get dust (and some light marring). Spur your pad after every 1-2 panels (a loaded pad will cause dusting too). This sounds like single stage paint, so you'll be getting plenty of pad build up. If you don't have a spur, use an old toothbrush. Set the PC to 4, and lightly run the toothbrush across the pad to keep it clean.

-After the SSR2.5 step, use another white polishing pad & SSR1 to clean up. If the surface looks 90% 'clean', use a finishing pad. Set your speed to 5-5.5 on the PC.

Good luck and have fun!
 
Thanks alot guys! I will try all of these tips today (seeing as they are all pretty much the same :))
 
Awesome, I will deffinately read what is inside the links. I have been doing so much research lately, but its hard to take in all that info, and remember 100% of it.

I also meant to ask about these little specs on his car. Some people say oxidation. They are very small specs throughout the car (including the black around the glass in the rear) They are the size of the point on a toothpick. So far I have managed to get some of them out by clay / wash / ssr. Does anyone have a clue what they are, (I know I need to get pictures) or another way to get them off? It wont come off the edges of the glass.
 
Its either some type of contaniment that clay will be able to get off. It may take a lot of time to get there, but there is a good chance that it'll remove it. On the other hand, it may be some type of sap than is a major pain in the you know where to remove.
 
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