#9

T

Travlinlght

New member
Does Meguires #9 "hide" or fill swirl marks or does it "repair" them?

Also can you apply the product to whole car by hand?



Thanks
 
Yup. Gotta agree with the experts on this one. I've had pretty good luck using it by hand, but prepare for a workout if your swirls are too bad. You may have to go over the areas a couple times to get em out but it should work ok for ya. :xyxthumbs
 
Jngrbrdman said:
Yup. Gotta agree with the experts on this one. I've had pretty good luck using it by hand, but prepare for a workout if your swirls are too bad. You may have to go over the areas a couple times to get em out but it should work ok for ya. :xyxthumbs
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yep:xyxthumbs
 
I've got some minor swirls and scratches just from drying the car and QDing over the summer. It seems light scratches and swirl marks can't be avoided. I have a new high gloss paint job( Black). I use all the proper tools , 100% cotton towels, MF's, Zaino QD and Car wash, Etc. I just always find new scratches and marks everytime I wash the car. It drives me crazy!!:bounce

The car is going away for winter and in the spring I plan on Dawning, claying and useing #9 before my Zaino polishes. Like a fresh start!!!

You guys have the same problem with minor scratches and marks?
 
Mags GN said:
You guys have the same problem with minor scratches and marks?
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Yep. Not bad, but always a few. There again, the cars in our household get driven daily and accumulate 15,000 to 30,000 miles a year on them. I just think it goes with using them. The one car that is driven in mostly good weather and only about 5,000 miles per year, doesn't have near the problem.



Charles
 
Mags GN said:
I've got some minor swirls and scratches just from drying the car and QDing over the summer. It seems light scratches and swirl marks can't be avoided. You guys have the same problem with minor scratches and marks?
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I bought an Absorber recently and on the flatter surfaces I find that I can just lay it down and it will suck off the larger water spots without rubbing. It essentially blots it. Then it takes a lot less effort and fewer strokes to remove the small amount that remains.



If you want perfection avoid a California Water Blade. It's fine by itself, but if you have fine dirt trapped it can leave very light scratches that show up under the neon lights.



And Yes, even driving causes tiny swirl marks.



I just used #9 to wipe out scratches on a very dark green car where some jerk wrote Wash Me last winter on the hood. (As if we could do anything in the snow.) Some scratches looked pretty deep so I hand rubbed #9 on those until they were almost gone then used the orbital to go over the entire hood. The #9 definitely took out the fine scratches. After applying S100 Gloss Ehancing Polish then Blackfire, my neighbor was extremely happy with the results.



The #9 Swirl Mark Remover made the whole hood much clearer.



I didn't hear you mention a foam polishing pad Random Orbital Buffer here. It can work wonders. Paraphrasing Geeky Steve I can get 95% of the performance of a rotary without the danger of harming the paint. If you are using a PC or other good brand, not only polishes and swirl removers, but waxes are worked in better and it removes and hides small scratches better.
 
mrdetailer.....what pad do you use with pc and #9? I can tell I am going to need to use it soon, but i'm hesitant since I have never used an abrasive. I thought i have seen on here that some say its a very mild abrasive? I have the white and gray pads from CMA. Used them with 7 and 26. They worked really well.



Thanks
 
#9 is fairly safe. It is a swirl remover, so it is somewhat abrasive. Not nearly as abrasive as 3M SMR or something like that. I'd say that #9 would be the first step. If that doesn't work then move up to PI-II. From there go up to SMR. #9 is good for working by hand on mild swirls. Anything more serious than that will require either arms like an ox or a machine. You'd have to be pretty huge to take off much paint with #9 by hand. Pretty safe stuff.
 
Jngrbrdman said:
I'd say that #9 would be the first step. If that doesn't work then move up to PI-II. From there go up to SMR.
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Wait a sec... which PI-II product are you referring to? The only PI-II's that I know of are compounds which are definitely more abrasive than the SMR polishing glaze. :confused:



But I do agree that #9 will only remove/fill very light swirls....it's more of a "maintenance" type of product...to remove very fine swirls which are pretty much inevitable with normal detailing. It also works well to remove hazing from compounding.
 
Intermezzo said:
Wait a sec... which PI-II product are you referring to? The only PI-II's that I know of are compounds which are definitely more abrasive than the SMR polishing glaze. :confused:
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I'm thinking maybe he meant FI-II ? :nixweiss



From what I've heard though, I wouldn't try FI-II by hand. I'd just step up to DACP or something.
 
toy4r said:
mrdetailer.....what pad do you use with pc and #9? I can tell I am going to need to use it soon, but i'm hesitant since I have never used an abrasive. I thought i have seen on here that some say its a very mild abrasive? I have the white and gray pads from CMA. Used them with 7 and 26. They worked really well.



Thanks
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I would use the white polishing pad first with #9. If that doesn't work, you can order a yellow one for a little more agressive cutting action.



Do more than one application if you see it working, but it doesn't get everything the first time. To remove oxidation on a hood this fall, I had to use 3-4 applications. I've seen #9 Swirl Remover take out some scratches that I didn't expect to come out. They weren't deep however. Remember just to use a little. 4-6 dollops on the pad. Too wet and it takes a long time to remove.



According to Meguiars scale, #9 has a cutting action of 3. It's the same as their Swirl Free Polish. While it has abrasive action, I consider it a mild polish. For medium scratches or oxidation use Meguiars Dual Action Cleaner Polish, (6) using first the white then the yellow pad. The scale is 1 to 10. This is generally a one time job, then the #9 takes over after that.



I've used #9 for years and have found it to be a mild and excellent product. When I first started I put the center of the oscillating pad on a curve on the right side of the trunk. Don't do that. Keep the edges of the PC on the curvey parts and you will have absolutely no problem. Never had a single problem on flat surfaces. Keep it moving. You'l be amazed how easy it is to use.
 
4DSC said:
I'm thinking maybe he meant FI-II ? :nixweiss



From what I've heard though, I wouldn't try FI-II by hand. I'd just step up to DACP or something.
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Whoops. My bad. Yup. That's what I meant. So many acronyms... So little time..... :up
 
According to Meguiars scale, #9 has a cutting action of 3. It's the same as their Swirl Free Polish. While it has abrasive action, I consider it a mild polish. For medium scratches or oxidation use Meguiars Dual Action Cleaner Polish, (6) using first the white then the yellow pad. The scale is 1 to 10. This is generally a one time job, then the #9 takes over after that.
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I have just some minor swirls with a few that are a little deeper from the dealer washing my car before I got it. I was going to use DACP, but now I'm thinkin I should start with the #9. What I was wondering, is 3M SMR more/less abrasive that #9 and could I use these two products together? I would want to start off with the more abrasive right? Thanks for the help!!
 
Golfus said:
I have just some minor swirls with a few that are a little deeper from the dealer washing my car before I got it. I was going to use DACP, but now I'm thinkin I should start with the #9. What I was wondering, is 3M SMR more/less abrasive that #9 and could I use these two products together? I would want to start off with the more abrasive right? Thanks for the help!!
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If it's new like it sounds, #9 would be a better choice first. Less agressive first is easier. You can use both SMR and #9. SMR is more agressive in my experience so I would start with it first.
 
do you guys reckon its best to dawn wash again after doing #9 to remove the fillers so u can really see the real swirls and also any abrasives left over, and prep for the wax?



or just go straight on top with a wax topper?
 
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