476s~vs~1000p

Both great ladies, with years of experience in dealing with people. Leda started on the production line at FK, one hard worker and one fine person. Beth was hired because Rick wanted some one that had computer experience and in reality, she had almost none, but within a couple of months, was on the "deal". 


Hell, she carried me into the "cyber world".


While both companies do not have a "shelf" presence or promote to the ",market of home/detailer sort" market, do handle "on line" orders and most important, as you mentioned, "will take a phone call or return a phone call", when people have tech questions, etc.


If they can't handle the questions, they will refer them to those who can provide the needed information.


Not common in today's "cyber world of marketing".


Tim is another great resource, just that right now he is covered up with "corrosion concerns" from vehicle manufactuers, that have not been made public at this point.


If one gets to talk with Tim, have your "ducks in a row" as he is so busy with the "bigger things", doubt he has a lot of patience for those who are asking questions that are so basic that it's a shame.
 
Yeah, I never did call Tim about selling certain products in smaller quantities because I figured he has bigger (and better) fish to fry...and it's not like I'm some modest shrinking violet ^_^


 


Ya know...it doesn't surprise me to hear how Leda and Beth worked their way up into their current positions.  They just come across that way- hoghly competent, motivated to "do well", and good at interpersonal skills.
 
Accumulator said:
Ah OK, figured it was something along those lines. Bit of a PIA, but better than tossing the dried-out stuff.
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I got a batch of the hard stuff. I melted it and added some off the shelf mineral spirits, about 10-15% by volume and the product is much easier to use. I even added it to a deodorant stick. Works as good if not better than the rock hard original.
 
Dan- Ah, that sounds a lot better than my just adding some FK425 to it!  Wonder if you'll like your vesion better than the regular soft stuff?!?
 
Accumulator said:
Dan- Ah, that sounds a lot better than my just adding some FK425 to it! Wonder if you'll like your vesion better than the regular soft stuff?!?
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It is great to use now. I wish I could do something to make it look alive. Actually I find Meg's ultimate to have similar release properties but great looks and good filling ability.
 
Huh, that's interesting about the Meguiar's Ultimate.  I somehow doubt that it'd last as long as the FK1000P does (for me) though.


 


This reminds me that I oughta try their QuikWax spray if I ever use up my current stuff (and it really is turning into an "if" rather than a "when").
 
I'd keep running out of patience and stripping or putting something on top of either. 😀
 
I very rarely if ever put sealant or wax on by hand, i use my DA for that, i'm getting smarter in my old age.plus i think it gets appied thinner and work into the paint more, jmho.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Just finished some testing of 1000P. It appears that JJ did some minor formula changes--to the better!


It goes on nice and thin (I use a closed cell grey sponge pad for application as Floyd always dictated, works better than a cloth) and was very easy to remove the "haze" or "indicators". Just a quick "break wipe" and then a final wipe with a folded micro-fiber, in circular motions, easiest I have ever worked with the product. 


For those who desire to "layer" products, this is one that from day one, was formulated to be applied in layers, as it was made for the mold release industry.


The product is available from various sources, one being a distributor of mold release products, or in the can most are familiar with, the white tin can with the 1000P part number.


The product is also available from marine/boating supply houses, but the part number is BWM101. BMW is for the name Floyd put to his Finish Kare marine line--Big White Marine.
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Sorry for going off on a tangent but this was so relevant for me: It's funny how my first post brings back memories... I just got a shipment of product from my local detailing supply shop and a can of 1000P was in the box. I used to work for a plastics company (we made Timex watch display cases and other stuff for retailers) as a summer student and operated a few vacuum forming machines. Morning prep or when changing the molds required waxing the "release surface". When I cracked the FK1000P can today and gave it a sniff I was instantly teleported back in time to that hot summer back in the day (used to run 140+ deg in the shop)... I swear it's the same stuff - worked there circa mid-90's so could very well have been 1000P I was using =)


 


Bought it for my rims, but after reading this thread I think it's going on the paint too.


 


Ron - can you verify if 1000P was around back then?
 
About a month ago I put FK1000 on the hood of my car--no prep other than a wash as I was just giving it a try to develop a technique for machine application.


 


Since then I've only been able to wash the car once since we've been having thunderstorms almost every day to some degree or another.   It was striking to me how clean the hood stayed compared to the remainder of the car (protected with DG105)--the FK1000 seems to really shed dirt well.
 
If I understood him correctly, Ron Ketcham wrote that we can apply the next layer of 1000P as soon as we have completely removed the fully dry residue from the prior layer.  I have read/heard more than once that 1000P should be allowed to cure at least 48-72 hours before applying the next layer, and it needed to stay dry during that time, no washing or exposure to rain etc.  If we are not reducing 1000P's endurance at all by layering very soon after removing the prior layer, that would be wonderful, would greatly simplify my winter prep. I have been getting through the Northeast winter from late October to late April with 2-3 coats applied at least a few days apart.
 
STSinNYC- I myself think you should just keep doing what you're doing.  But I do want to give this a fair discussion, so:


 


The problem I had with rapid layering of FK1000P was purely appearance-related, there was never any durability compromise.


 


I got *severe* pseudo-holograms, and I mean really awful.  Couldn't just buff them out with a QD-dampened MF.  This only happened one time, but it was such a PIA (the vehicle was the black Yukon XLD I used to have, huge thing to redo..) that I 1) never risked that again, and 2) caution others that it can happen.


 


Before that happened I regularly applied two or three coats of FK1000P during a single day with no problems.


 


Ron Ketcham and I have discussed it, and he suspects that it might've been caused by my buff-off procedure not being aggressive enough; that I didn't expose enough of the initial coats to the air and that I should've employed a more "two-step" process with the first step being more aggressive with regard to buffing media and technique.  But, well....I LSP the way I LSP (major concerns are risk of marring and uniformity of finish, which I have under control) and as this is the only issue I've ever had with any LSP I'm just gonna keep doing what I'm doing.


 


Note that FK1000P is sorta "FK's version of Meguiar's M16".  Other people who oughta know (e.g., Mike Phillips) say that you should buff off M16 more aggressively than I do, again with a two-step process.  But I've never had any problems doing M16 my way.


 


So if you're gonna do rapid layering of FK1000P, buff with 1) a first pass using maybe a "terry-type loops" style MF and then 2) a gentle final buff with something really soft and plush (and I'd fog the surface with my breath during that step).
 
Autopia_Zombie said:
Sorry for going off on a tangent but this was so relevant for me: It's funny how my first post brings back memories... I just got a shipment of product from my local detailing supply shop and a can of 1000P was in the box. I used to work for a plastics company (we made Timex watch display cases and other stuff for retailers) as a summer student and operated a few vacuum forming machines. Morning prep or when changing the molds required waxing the "release surface". When I cracked the FK1000P can today and gave it a sniff I was instantly teleported back in time to that hot summer back in the day (used to run 140+ deg in the shop)... I swear it's the same stuff - worked there circa mid-90's so could very well have been 1000P I was using =)


 


Bought it for my rims, but after reading this thread I think it's going on the paint too.


 


Ron - can you verify if 1000P was around back then?
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It is the exact same product. Which as you point out, takes high heat. That is a real key to it lasting so long on a vehicle.
 
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