Ron Ketcham
Active member
You "added back" a small percentage of carrier solvent, not the one that evaporated, but it worked.
476s~vs~1000p
- Thread starter Fallz
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
Ah OK, figured it was something along those lines. Bit of a PIA, but better than tossing the dried-out stuff.
Accumulator
Well-known member
pwaug- Sounds like overkill/hassle to me, but what do I know?!? I *would* make sure that lid is on there tightly though. We'll see when my tin goes bad, I can't imagine I'll use it all up before that happens. But OTOH, I've gotten nearly a decade out of an opened tin M16, I seem to live in some alternate reality with regard to shelf life...
Ron Ketcham:
Thanks for the information on carrier "hydrocarbons" in 1000P , and probably in all carnauba paste waxes.
Now I know why Autopians keep their paste waxes in a refrigerator: to reduce the escape/evaporation of these hydrocarbons and attempt to increase the shelf life.
Thanks for the information on carrier "hydrocarbons" in 1000P , and probably in all carnauba paste waxes.
Now I know why Autopians keep their paste waxes in a refrigerator: to reduce the escape/evaporation of these hydrocarbons and attempt to increase the shelf life.
UPDATE: Its really hard to tell the differences between these 2 waxes/sealants but here is what I see on Silver.
1000p more glassy like appearance
476s Slight more carnuba look .(and I mean slight)
<span style="font-size:14px;"> The 476s does indicate detergent resistant and wondered if the 1000p has those properties ?
<span style="font-size:14px;">With using my new tin application and removal have been much easier.
<span style="font-size:14px;">Thats it so far~
<span style="font-size:14px;">Mike
1000p more glassy like appearance
476s Slight more carnuba look .(and I mean slight)
<span style="font-size:14px;"> The 476s does indicate detergent resistant and wondered if the 1000p has those properties ?
<span style="font-size:14px;">With using my new tin application and removal have been much easier.
<span style="font-size:14px;">Thats it so far~
<span style="font-size:14px;">Mike
Accumulator
Well-known member
Fallguy- Keep in mind that claims like "detergent resistant" are like "long lasting"...it's all ad copy hype that's relative at best.
IME 476S is *not* as "detergent resistant" as FK1000P, that's a big part of why I've mostly switched to the latter. But consider all the variables: water quality (and maybe also temperature), choice and strength of shampoo, wash technique, etc.
Keep an eye on things and see how it works out for you.
IME 476S is *not* as "detergent resistant" as FK1000P, that's a big part of why I've mostly switched to the latter. But consider all the variables: water quality (and maybe also temperature), choice and strength of shampoo, wash technique, etc.
Keep an eye on things and see how it works out for you.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Fallguy- Were the cleaning power and lubricity of the FK425 sufficient for that?
If you start to notice some marring, consider switching to a leaves-stuff-behind rinseless wash, something like Ultima's stuff or Garry Dean's IUDJ (which I continue to be *very* impressed with).
If you start to notice some marring, consider switching to a leaves-stuff-behind rinseless wash, something like Ultima's stuff or Garry Dean's IUDJ (which I continue to be *very* impressed with).
Jesstzn
New member
Here is a tidbit re FK100p.. I applied it to a new 2013 Dodge P/U on Oct 15 .. the truck was garage stored from 1 Nov till 1 April. I got it yesterday for the spring detail and it hardly had any beading at all. The owner is a car guy and has been taught the proper wash methods. When I polished 1/2 the hood and did a IPA wipe I could see the difference. Clarity was back.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Jesstzn- Huh, I'm kinda surprised that the beading was dead after so little use. I'll be getting my '08 Crown Vic out in a while, it's been stored for (sheesh, this is embarassing :wacko: ) last August and it got FK1000P a few months before that. We'll see how it beads after I wash it up....
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Just finished some testing of 1000P. It appears that JJ did some minor formula changes--to the better!
It goes on nice and thin (I use a closed cell grey sponge pad for application as Floyd always dictated, works better than a cloth) and was very easy to remove the "haze" or "indicators". Just a quick "break wipe" and then a final wipe with a folded micro-fiber, in circular motions, easiest I have ever worked with the product.
For those who desire to "layer" products, this is one that from day one, was formulated to be applied in layers, as it was made for the mold release industry.
The product is available from various sources, one being a distributor of mold release products, or in the can most are familiar with, the white tin can with the 1000P part number.
The product is also available from marine/boating supply houses, but the part number is BWM101. BMW is for the name Floyd put to his Finish Kare marine line--Big White Marine.
It goes on nice and thin (I use a closed cell grey sponge pad for application as Floyd always dictated, works better than a cloth) and was very easy to remove the "haze" or "indicators". Just a quick "break wipe" and then a final wipe with a folded micro-fiber, in circular motions, easiest I have ever worked with the product.
For those who desire to "layer" products, this is one that from day one, was formulated to be applied in layers, as it was made for the mold release industry.
The product is available from various sources, one being a distributor of mold release products, or in the can most are familiar with, the white tin can with the 1000P part number.
The product is also available from marine/boating supply houses, but the part number is BWM101. BMW is for the name Floyd put to his Finish Kare marine line--Big White Marine.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Ron Ketcham- Good to hear your take on (today's version of) it! I'm still afraid to do "same day layering" after that disaster on my Yukon though...
Jesstzn- OK, I just washed up the '08 Crown Vic this weekend. Last FK1000Ped in April of '13. Parked since August and I *did NOT even clean off the bugs!*. I was worried that I'd have etching from that, but NO. No problems at all. Cleaned up just fine and was still beading tightly. Said beads blew right off with the AirWand too. I didn't even bother to do a new coat, just dried it off with FK425. I have no idea why FK1000P performs as well as it does for me, but I'm sure glad it's working out that way.
Jesstzn- OK, I just washed up the '08 Crown Vic this weekend. Last FK1000Ped in April of '13. Parked since August and I *did NOT even clean off the bugs!*. I was worried that I'd have etching from that, but NO. No problems at all. Cleaned up just fine and was still beading tightly. Said beads blew right off with the AirWand too. I didn't even bother to do a new coat, just dried it off with FK425. I have no idea why FK1000P performs as well as it does for me, but I'm sure glad it's working out that way.
Ron Ketcham
Active member
I have a feeling that many are using the product incorrectly. It is NOT a pre-cleaner wax! It is not formulated to remove oxidation and such.
The surface must be clean of all such before application of the product.
That is often one of the misconceptions of the product, that it is a "cleaner wax".
The 1000P is a high tech blend of polymer waxes, etc, which is why, when it is allowed to cure completely, provides such a long term surface over the paint surface.
It has a very high "melt point", since for use in mold release applications, must withstand the exo-therm temps produced by the curing of the gel coat. Not sure what that "break point of temp is today", but it appears, from some testing I did for JJ that the new version can withstand somewhere in the area of close to 300F before it starts to break down and evaporate from the surface.
FK is saying in their directions on new containers to use a cloth towel for application.
I do NOT agree!
Use of a closed cell sponge works much better, as the towel may place an excess of the product on the surface.
The towel use may create a couple of problems for the user.
1. Puts down excessive product, which then slows down the initial cure (start of cure-which requires exposure to air).
2. Excessive thickness of application makes it much harder to remove once it has started it's curing process.
Allow at least 10 minutes of the first "thin" coat to cure. Then do the "break wipe", followed by the final removal with a micro fiber towel.
3. Then one can apply a second coat, repeat as one did for the first application.
4. This may be repeated up to 4 to 5 times, building a strong, highly resistive coating on the vehicle.
The surface must be clean of all such before application of the product.
That is often one of the misconceptions of the product, that it is a "cleaner wax".
The 1000P is a high tech blend of polymer waxes, etc, which is why, when it is allowed to cure completely, provides such a long term surface over the paint surface.
It has a very high "melt point", since for use in mold release applications, must withstand the exo-therm temps produced by the curing of the gel coat. Not sure what that "break point of temp is today", but it appears, from some testing I did for JJ that the new version can withstand somewhere in the area of close to 300F before it starts to break down and evaporate from the surface.
FK is saying in their directions on new containers to use a cloth towel for application.
I do NOT agree!
Use of a closed cell sponge works much better, as the towel may place an excess of the product on the surface.
The towel use may create a couple of problems for the user.
1. Puts down excessive product, which then slows down the initial cure (start of cure-which requires exposure to air).
2. Excessive thickness of application makes it much harder to remove once it has started it's curing process.
Allow at least 10 minutes of the first "thin" coat to cure. Then do the "break wipe", followed by the final removal with a micro fiber towel.
3. Then one can apply a second coat, repeat as one did for the first application.
4. This may be repeated up to 4 to 5 times, building a strong, highly resistive coating on the vehicle.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Ron Ketcham- I've sometimes used a MF towel to apply (mainly on wheels or for small spot-touch-ups, and I agree, much harder to get a thin application compared to using a (closed cell) sponge applicator.
Never occurred to me that somebody would think of it as a cleaner-wax....
Never occurred to me that somebody would think of it as a cleaner-wax....
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Really?
In the years we have been around here and other forums, how many times have we seen questions that would have been answered if the one asking would have just "read the directions" on the container?
Most questions asked are more a matter of using "logic" and using some of the information that was taught in those high school classes of chemistry, etc, that they slept through.
In the years we have been around here and other forums, how many times have we seen questions that would have been answered if the one asking would have just "read the directions" on the container?
Most questions asked are more a matter of using "logic" and using some of the information that was taught in those high school classes of chemistry, etc, that they slept through.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Well, yeah...guess so...but, well, "never ceases to amaze me..." and all that.
Of course, here we are saying to ignore the directions with regard to application media!
Maybe I was so surprised by this one because I think of FK1000P as bit of a niche product in that the average guy isn't even gonna discover it, like it's one of those "for those in the know" things. Heh heh, I sure can't get any traction on the Panther platform forums when I suggest it...Finish Kare? ValuGard? Nobody gives a [toss]...
Of course, here we are saying to ignore the directions with regard to application media!
Maybe I was so surprised by this one because I think of FK1000P as bit of a niche product in that the average guy isn't even gonna discover it, like it's one of those "for those in the know" things. Heh heh, I sure can't get any traction on the Panther platform forums when I suggest it...Finish Kare? ValuGard? Nobody gives a [toss]...
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Both companies are not "mass marketers" and don't go for shelf posistion in the large stores.
They are true professional products, used by manufacturers, etc.
The little "boutique" sellers use the net to sell their wares, forums, etc and "here today, gone next year" is what happens do a large part of them
Hell, Automotive International sells a thousand times more of one product, like the rust preventative, in a month than those guys sell in the entire life of their little repackaging companies.
They are true professional products, used by manufacturers, etc.
The little "boutique" sellers use the net to sell their wares, forums, etc and "here today, gone next year" is what happens do a large part of them
Hell, Automotive International sells a thousand times more of one product, like the rust preventative, in a month than those guys sell in the entire life of their little repackaging companies.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Heh heh, yeah...and the continued success of FK and AI is good news for us "little guy customers"! And ya know, considering how big they are and their (real) target market, people like Leda (FK) and Beth (AI) sure do give great customer service when somebody like me calls up for one jug of product.