476s~vs~1000p

F

Fallz

New member
What do you think will give a better shine ? 


 


My truck is Silver so I'm looking for more of the high gloss than anything else, (plastic type of shine.) Note : I polished it with a shot of 501 DG now just need to wax. 


 


I have 476 and 1000p already .
 
IME the FK1000P will give a much "more plasticy sealant look" while the 476S will look much more like a traditional paste wax.


 


Note that when I used 476S on a pals medium-dark blue concours car, some "expert" said "look, that car has Dodo Juice on it, nothing else looks like that!".  Yep, he mistook 476S for a high-buck beauty wax.  Nobody would ever mistake FK1000P for Dodo Juice, not even that twit.  I used 476S on it in part because it gave that fifty-some year old car the right look IMO; I told the owner that I "didn't want it to look like a new Toyota".
 
Fallguy:


I have only used Collinite 885 Fleetwax (the identical twin to 476S sold as a marine/boat wax), and the three things  like about 885/476 are:


1) Its carnauba-like shine and the bang-for-the-buck compared to high-end carnaubas


2) Its longevity per application (about 6-9 months, but my vehicle is garaged, so your-mileage-may-vary if your vehicle is keep outdoors 24/7 and environmental/weather conditions of your local)


3) Its insane beading and the way water rolls off it with a leaf blower after spray rinses as part of two-bucket traditional car washes.


I know from a previous post within this forum, some "well-respected Autopians" have stated that they noticed  that water seems to sheen or sheet off surfaces that have sealants applied to them.


Water seems to "stick" when trying to dry surfaces via compressed/blown air. Cannot say what name-brand sealants this may apply to.


 


Because I do the traditional 2B wash, I prefer that water beads and rolls off when leaf-blown. Makes drying a lot quicker with a waffle-weave  microfiber towel. The "downside" is that nice water beading can leaves rings of dirt/dust when the hot summer sun comes out after it rains.


 


Plus, the beading still gives the visual  "illusion" that the protection is still there. (true or false, you decide. Sounds like fodder for a survey within this forum)
 
FWIW, the FK1000P does the "water roll-off" thing very well too.  During the winter, I can keep the Tahoe looking decent by merely rinsing it off, first with normal (softened) water at fairly high pressure, and then with DI water.  Going over it with the AirWand, and sometimes also the compressor if I want to do a better job of it, the water rolls off quite well leaving the vehicle looking *almost* just-washed.


 


It sure doesn't do this *better* than the 476S, but it'll do it *longer*.  The Collinite requires a real wash sooner, besides needing reapplied more frequently.


 


Again, not hating on the Collinite at all; just the other day I was thinking how nice it looks on the '93 Audi.
 
I noticed a funny thing about my 1000p. Ive had it a long time and its been a bitch to work with on and taking off. So today i was playing with it and doing a panel at a time and I thought I would break open a new tin since my other one is 90% gone. What a huge difference in on/off application. Much easier !!! I can spread it much thinner too.
 
I have the whole vehicle polished and what I did was wax with 1000p and I taped off half my hood and put 476 on one half and 1000p on the other. Then I did 476s on a rear door panel to see how that fairs out in comparison to the 1000p. At first glance I can't see much difference , but the truck is still in my garage so its hard to tell.


 


I am a Collinite fan myself.
 
Fallguy- So your latest tin of FK1000P is much easier to work with?  I do recall a "hard" batch from quite a few years ago, my current tin is easy as any paste.


 


I'm really surprised you don't see a dramatic diff between the two LSPs, having them side-by-side like that!  Whenever I've switched a vehicle from one to the other the difference was really something.  Even on vehicles where I've just FK1000P'ed the wheels and 476S the rest of the vehicle, the difference is there.  Wonder if it'll look different to you once you get it in different light.
 
Accumulator said:
Fallguy- So your latest tin of FK1000P is much easier to work with?  I do recall a "hard" batch from quite a few years ago, my current tin is easy as any paste.


 


I'm really surprised you don't see a dramatic diff between the two LSPs, having them side-by-side like that!  Whenever I've switched a vehicle from one to the other the difference was really something.  Even on vehicles where I've just FK1000P'ed the wheels and 476S the rest of the vehicle, the difference is there.  Wonder if it'll look different to you once you get it in different light.


 


Yes this tin is much nicer  , it was almost gone anyway. 


The difference that I can see is minimal. I even looked at it outside today but it very overcast so nothing is popping. If I had to take a shot right now I'd say the 1000p has a cleaner look and a tad more shine to it. Also remember this is on my SILVER Toyota 4 runner. So like any silver / white car very hard to see . 


 


I think both products are excellent though. I'm going to put a coat on my wifes Magnetic metallic Rav4 today so I'm sure I see I'll be able to see more on a darker color. 
Click to expand...
 
Bought my can of FK1000p about 2 months ago during a 15% off plus free shipping sale.   I did do half of the hood a few weeks back by hand just to see how it was and had no problems.   But with all this talk about the product being hard in the can, a bear to remove and having to do it by hand I thought maybe I made a mistake and should have just bought Powerlock instead.   So I thought I'd give the hood a coat today with the Griots to see how it went and develop some acceptable technique since I won't have a chance to do my full spring detail for a few weeks.


 


First off the 1000 was buttery smooth in the can--not hard at all.  Used a 4" Buff & Shine white pad (in 4" their soft LSP pad is white) which fit in the can very well--speed 2 on the Griots to spread.   Clearly my initial section was too thick, but by the end section of the hood had a technique down to keep it very thin. 


 


Let it sit for an hour even though it was 70 in the garage it was pretty humid from the early arrival of our 6 days of rain.   Removal wasn't bad at all, even on the areas I spread it too thick--one light wipe with the short nap side of the MF then follow up with the fluffy side as suggested by Ron.


 


Car is VW Granite Green--sort of a light green with gray overtones and the look of the 1000p is excellent--very much like DG 105--not too "glassy" as some think.


 


Also didn't have any trouble removing it from the pad--tossed it in a small bucket of hot water and Dawn for 20-30 minutes then cleaned with Dawn PowerDissolver--worked like a charm.


 


So now I'm looking forward to doing the whole car after decon and a light polish.  And, I will do the second coat by hand even though I hate the thought of it.
 
pwaug- I think I can imagine how it looks on that paint, bet it's nice.  It might not be too bad by hand, since your tin isn't the "hard" stuff.
 
Accumulator said:
 It might not be too bad by hand, since your tin isn't the "hard" stuff.
Click to expand...


I'm sure it will be fine--I've just gotten lazy in my old age since I started using the Griots.
 
Hah, I have a can of the 1000P "Hard stuff" still that i ordered from the outfit in Arizona that distributed FK.


 


It's on my 'WTF' shelf along with an 80% bottle of classic FX100 resin/organic spray wax that was discontinued.


 


It's literally hard as a rock.  I think FK1USA used to transfer product into their own bottles so whether this was the cause or if it really was a weird bad batch, i just wanted to hurl it back at them.  Even using a plastic or butter knife, it was no use.  It was like a hardened piece of clay.


 


I like both the good regular 1000p and 476.  1000p for light metallics and 476 for darker colors.


 


I've since moved on to Coatings of all types and such but these were my favs pre-coatings.
 
Long history with Finish Kare, was their National Sales Manager from 1988 until fall of 1995. I am aware of the whole history of the company, how it came to be, etc.


There is a "hydrocarbon" solvent in the product, 1000P, that as with any paste or liquid wax, that is required. Over time, those solvents will evaporate, no matter how tight the lid, etc is.


Once that "carrier solvent" (correct name) escapes/evaporates, the product is no longer useful and becomes very hard.


Shelf life, on average is 3 years for an un-opened ten, 1 to 2 years, on average life span, once the tin lid is removed.
 
Ron Ketcham- I continue to beat the odds with regard to shelflife in this case too :P  According to my records, I've been using my open/working tin of FK1000P for five years now.  Heh heh,  I've probably jinxed myself by posting that!


 


If you would, give me your take on this- My "rock hard" sample tin became usable when I dampened both my applicator and the product with FK425.  Not "optimally usable" by any means, but enough so that I was able to use it on some wheels and form an opinion.  Same durability/etc. as my newer/fresh batch, no real downside I could determine other than the PIA applicaton.  I didn't even realize how [messed] up/dried out it was until I bought my current tin, thought that's just the way the stuff was.
 
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