476s application directions?
- Thread starter DigitalN.
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
Sal_Seth said:
Yeah, some people do the 476S first and then the 845 and I fully understand their rationale for doing so. I doubt that you'll go wrong either way, I just prefer doing the 845 first. Having the less durable 845 on first does *NOT* adversely effect durability IME.
Unless the paint is pretty nasty I doubt that the polishing is really *necessary*. But if the paint isn't really clean, well, that'd be a different matter. I think I'd at least clay, and maybe do a paint cleaner/all-in-one if a full polish isn't feasible. And yeah, I can see putting off the polish until spring as most people need to polish after winter wear-and-tear anyhow.
A black LC finishing pad oughta work fine for 845 but I dunno about 476S. I like a waxing/finishing pad with a bit of firmness for 476S (because it's a hard wax) and my LC Black pads are pretty soft (but they're also old and maybe today's are firmer :nixweiss ). I'm sorta backing off of my usual machine application for 476S as there are rare instances where it just doesn't go all that well. No, I've never figured out what goes wrong but the result is weird pseudo-holograms from the wax ending up unevely applied (at least I think that's what causes it
). All in all, I think you'd probably better do it by hand. It's not that big a PIA anyhow, and believe me, I'm one guy who prefers doing *everything* by machine so if *I* say it goes OK by hand you can count on it 
Also, while I think I get better durability by letting the wax set up for a while before buffing, doing a semi-W-O-W-O method works OK too and makes things even easier.
Bence said:
Bence has a strong point here.
Eg. Matrix Micro Coatings' Hyper Polish incorporates 2 types of strong cleaners to deep cleanse the paint before applying the coating. One of the cleaners is a "Heavy Metal Remover".
When I prep for Zaino, I normally wash with dish washing liquid, M6000 de-waxing liquid and IPA wipe. Often, after this thorough cleaning, the surface still beads water!!!
Once, my car was heavily layered with the Japanese Soft99 hard waxes for a the past few months, and these must be removed prior to Zainoing. I finished up a full bottle of DAWN (!!!!) and the water still beaded like crazy!
If your LSPs seem to be undurable, it could be a thick buildup of old prdts on the paint surface. These must be removed first.
imported_MBenz
New member
gigondaz said:
At this point i would be tempted to try some prep-sol or something.
SuperBee364
New member
I haven't had problems with 476S adhering to paint, but I have with Vintage. Here's what helped...
1. Always doing an IPA or prepsol wipedown before waxing.
2. Leaving the wax on until it totally passes the finger swipe test.
and/or
3. Applying the wax over a good glaze.
In reference to #3, sometimes there's just crap on the paint (as Bence, Rydawg, Accumulator have said), and for some reason, putting on a layer of glaze seems to act as a good intermediary between the wax and the crap preventing the wax from adhering.
Edit: "totally passing the finger swipe test" means seperate things for Vintage and 476... for 476, it means bare paint behind the finger, for Vintage it means a bit of a smear still left. I *do not* advocate leaving Vintage on til it's totally dry.
1. Always doing an IPA or prepsol wipedown before waxing.
2. Leaving the wax on until it totally passes the finger swipe test.
and/or
3. Applying the wax over a good glaze.
In reference to #3, sometimes there's just crap on the paint (as Bence, Rydawg, Accumulator have said), and for some reason, putting on a layer of glaze seems to act as a good intermediary between the wax and the crap preventing the wax from adhering.
Edit: "totally passing the finger swipe test" means seperate things for Vintage and 476... for 476, it means bare paint behind the finger, for Vintage it means a bit of a smear still left. I *do not* advocate leaving Vintage on til it's totally dry.
I have been running a courier route during the evenings and I average around 450 miles a day on my minivan. I applied 845 followed with 476 a week later. I have noticed that the hood has almost no protection after 7 weeks. It has been pelted by salt laced drizzle and other crap and has given up the ghost. Other areas that aren't as severely deluged every day are still showing great beading (ie.. the roof, sides, etc.). I believe the sand, grit and salt spread on our highways here in ohio have blasted the collinite off my car, maybe it is the same for you.