476s application directions?

[Accumulator]

yep, same can.

Heh heh, you must be putting it on nice and thin

I have had the pseduo-holograms on a brand new Maxima, even after two weeks of "curing" and two washes, they were still there. I stripped the hood and started over--I think I eneded up just using some old UPP(the one that smelled like bubble gum v3 maybe???).

Was that with *one* coat of 476S or multiple coats?



Oh, and I can't keep my different versions of UPP straight either...shoulda labelled them or something but since I only use the stuff on the S8 I guess it doesn't really matter. I *do* use their spray sealant on a lot of things though, and it smells sorta like chemically bubblegum.

..99% of the time the 476s is absolutely trouble-free and *very* durable, so we are definitely talking about the exception, not the rule. <--For anyone reading this thinking that we are having "big" issues with the product--not the case at all.

Yeah, I wouldn't want to scare anybody away from 476S, that's for sure. But uhm...I wouldn't say that the pseudo-holograms on the DenaliXL weren't a "big issue", at least not for me :bawling:



Oh, BTW, I got the etching on its roof a *lot* better [Accumulator pats self on back]. It was a real PIA though, probably took ~two hours and it's still not *fixed* or anything. After the way we've both hammered that thing's paint I'm kinda nervous about any future polishing

 

[EBPcivicsi]

Heh heh, you must be putting it on nice and thin







Was that with *one* coat of 476S or multiple coats?



Oh, and I can't keep my different versions of UPP straight either...shoulda labelled them or something but since I only use the stuff on the S8 I guess it doesn't really matter. I *do* use their spray sealant on a lot of things though, and it smells sorta like chemically bubblegum.









Yeah, I wouldn't want to scare anybody away from 476S, that's for sure. But uhm...I wouldn't say that the pseudo-holograms on the DenaliXL weren't a "big issue", at least not for me :bawling:



Oh, BTW, I got the etching on its roof a *lot* better [Accumulator pats self on back]. It was a real PIA though, probably took ~two hours and it's still not *fixed* or anything. After the way we've both hammered that thing's paint I'm kinda nervous about any future polishing

Definitely nice and thin!



Yep, just one coat and it was *thin*. When it came back to me at one week it had the "dust collection" on the holograms, which I would have thought was from a coat that was too thick--I *knew* that I had applied it really thin. I washed the car which I thought would pretty much remedy the situation--nope, next week when it came back, same thing. :nixweiss





Awesome on the etching! That was some really nasty stuff. Did you end up sanding it?

 

[Accumulator]

Definitely nice and thin!



Yep, just one coat and it was *thin*.

OK,thanks for the info. Wish we could figure out what causes that, I sure don't want to go through it on the DenaliXL again!

Awesome on the etching! That was some really nasty stuff. Did you end up sanding it?

Nah, I didn't get it *that* nice I was afraid I'd run out of clear. I used 1Z Pasta Intensive by hand and rubbed so hard I caused nasty tracers (almost as if I *had* sanded it!), used that until I was worried and then ended up doing good ol' 3M 05933 RC over and over and over, both by hand and PC/4" to bring it back before final polishing. Wish I'd had some M105 back then, but I might've gone too far with it.



I *did* wetsand those dents/chips on the one quarter though, must've redone 'em six more times before I threw in the towel.



Between your efforts and then mine, it's looking pretty good if I do say so myself Such a PIA to keep that way that I find myself driving the minivan instead

 

[imported_weekendwarrior]

I got the "pseudo-holograms" on a Sapphire Black BMW once when I used CMW. It kind of freaked me out, because I didn't notice it until the next week when I returned to the client's house to do their other car. It must have taken time for them to appear, as I looked that car over very well after the detail. The car hadn't been driven during the week between me detailing it, and noticing the holigrams, so I did a wipedown with a mixture of QEW/Water and wiped with a plush microfiber, and it remedied the situation. Never experienced this with 476.

 

[DigitalN.]

Hey all, I am back again. So I ended up re-applying the 476s to the car again about 2 weeks ago, and I washed it about 3 days after I applied it. It beaded like crazy! I was very happy with my work. I had ended up putting it on the whole car, letting it sit for 3 hours, then wiping it off.



However, I went to wash it a few days ago, and the sides AGAIN aren't beading at all. The flat surfaces are definitely not like they used to be for beading. I am at a loss here. The application I put on my shower walls when I first got it 2-3 months ago is finally wearing off (it probably would have lastest longer if I squeegeed it off after every shower)



I have yet to wash my fathers vehicle (I put it on there as well) however my hopes aren't too high on it being on there either. If it isn't, should I contact collinite?

 

[Accumulator]

DigitalN.- What shampoo are you using?



The guys at Collinite have always been friendly and helpful when I've spoken to them.

 

[DigitalN.]

I am using Optimum Car wash

 

[DigitalN.]

Okay so i went to wash my dads truck today, and loe and behold, there is still wax there.



However, it is only on the parts of the vehicle where the salt/snow/road crap hasn't hit! Fortunately him having a truck has made me find this out, as my car tends to get completely covered so I think it is due to bad application techniques.



My question now is, what do I do? Obviously I can't re-apply after every 2 washes during the winter time, how come it doesn't take more abuse? My car had 2 coats on it, and it still came off after 3 weeks. This is a little weird.

 

[Accumulator]

I am using Optimum Car wash

Hmmm...I've never used that (only their ONR) but I just gotta suspect that something in the wash is compromising the 476S. I've simply never had it *not* be durable :nixweiss



Only other thing I can think of is that the sides get stuff splashed on them (like from the wheels) but that's never been a big deal with my 476Sed vehicles.



Just too weird... :nixweiss



I do wonder what the guys at Collinite would say.

 

[heatgain]

Did you do this?:

Collinite 476S

To obtain professional results:

1. Apply wax with a clean, soft damp cloth or sponge to a section at a time, and let dry to a haze.

2. Polish lightly with another clean, dry, soft cloth to produce a brilliant luster.



One section at a time?

 

[imported_rydawg1]

There are some really weird contaminants in the paint which can cause bonding issues. I use to try everything; straight APC wash, prep wipedown, IPA and sometimes straight industrial dish soap. Recently I had to strip a mold infected LSP back from a car, and hit it with straight APC. The surface was squeaky clean, and the pooled on it nicely. I thought heck, I'm going over it with IPA to be sure. Wonder of wonders, as I spritzed the IPA onto the water film, it acted like a drying aid, and broke up the pooling water immediately and the water beaded rather well. I washed again with APC and left it.



So, always try to make sure that the surface is as clean as possible, and attack the contaminants with multiple guns. They can alter the polishing characteristics of the given panel significantly - so bad results are not always the fault of a particular polish or compound.

Unfortunately, deeply penetrated cheap silicones are impossible to remove. Luckily, I encountered them only 2-3 times.

BINGO! You are correct Bence and this is a main problem with bonding issues. With all the cheap products that dealers are slamming on these cars are a main cause of this. The cheap silicones will stay embedded in paint UNTIL it is removed.



Mold will grow on paint like a chia-pet at a micro-scopic level. A regular wash will only get dust and very light fresh dirt off. A degrease of the paint is a must and very helpful with getting most of it off.



Unfiltered rinse water is also a problem as it contains tons of minerals and calcium. So an IPA wipedown before application is a must.

 

[smokin180]

BINGO! You are correct Bence and this is a main problem with bonding issues. With all the cheap products that dealers are slamming on these cars are a main cause of this. The cheap silicones will stay embedded in paint UNTIL it is removed.



Mold will grow on paint like a chia-pet at a micro-scopic level. A regular wash will only get dust and very light fresh dirt off. A degrease of the paint is a must and very helpful with getting most of it off.



Unfiltered rinse water is also a problem as it contains tons of minerals and calcium. So an IPA wipedown before application is a must.

what would you say to the dilution ratio for apc.

 

[DigitalN.]

BINGO! You are correct Bence and this is a main problem with bonding issues. With all the cheap products that dealers are slamming on these cars are a main cause of this. The cheap silicones will stay embedded in paint UNTIL it is removed.



Mold will grow on paint like a chia-pet at a micro-scopic level. A regular wash will only get dust and very light fresh dirt off. A degrease of the paint is a must and very helpful with getting most of it off.



Unfiltered rinse water is also a problem as it contains tons of minerals and calcium. So an IPA wipedown before application is a must.

I did an IPA Wipedown however, so that is a moot issue.



Heatgain:



I used a black applicator pad, did the whole car (way too cold to wait for it to dry to a haze 1 panel at a time) and then went back with a microfiber and wiped it off. I'd tell the brand but honestly it slips my mind, it is a quality one though, not from Wal-Mart.

 

[imported_rydawg1]

what would you say to the dilution ratio for apc.

Depends on the paint type and the filth needing to be cleaned off.



I like to mix it in a spray bottle 20% degreaser/ 80% water. Then rinse the whole vehicle down real good out of sun. I spray 1 panel at a time and wash it, then rinse it. I never let the solution sit on the paint longer than 30 seconds. You can repeat again if it needs it.



A MF it the best to be used so you can get in cracks.

 

[Garry Dean]

I just used it today on a clients car and it went on and off like butter. The secret to this stuff is putting it on super thin!

 

[imported_MBenz]

Not trying to hijack or anything, but what paint products have silicone in them? If they are bad, why are they even allowed in such products?



The 476s is performing less than satisfactory on one of my cars and i am trying to hunt down the cause.

 

[Accumulator]

..I used a black applicator pad, did the whole car (way too cold to wait for it to dry to a haze 1 panel at a time)...

That bit about the low temps makes me wonder if that might be the problem :think:

The 476s is performing less than satisfactory on one of my cars and i am trying to hunt down the cause.

Isn't it frustrating when something like this happens only in rare instances?!? I never had problems with 476S before it acted up on the DenaliXL and it sure makes me wonder...



Oh, and regarding silicones, some are a *LOT* worse than others. The old version of 3M Showcar Paste Wax contained silicones but they never caused any problems at all (even when the vehicle was repainted), but other products that contain them can contaminate the paint something awful. Bence has schooled me on this topic and it's not a cut and dried good/bad sort of thing.

 

[Sal_Seth]

Does this mean collinite doesnt work as long in snow/salt/sand conditions? darn.. just ordered meself 476 and 845 only for snow/salt/sand that gets any other wax on my car within a week (mothers less than that). Was hoping that collinite was going to be different. Anybody else (perhaps up from great white north) seen this?

 

[Poordude]

I live in central canada(Winnipeg area). I put on 2 coats of 476 on my Toyota Highlander in October. Wicked winter & it still has great beading charecteristics after it,s weekly wash.

 

[Accumulator]

Does this mean collinite doesnt work as long in snow/salt/sand conditions? darn.. just ordered meself 476 and 845 only for snow/salt/sand that gets any other wax on my car within a week (mothers less than that). Was hoping that collinite was going to be different. Anybody else (perhaps up from great white north) seen this?

Welcome to Autopia!



Don't worry, the Collinite oughta work fine for you. Even with our Ohio winters I never need to redo it until well into Spring.



I do a base of 845 and a few applications of 476S, easily lasts through winter no matter how severe the conditions. I suppose YMMV, but I'll be pretty surprised if you aren't satisfied with its performance.