3M Rubbing Compound does wonders

JasonD

JasonD

New member
I can't believe more of you guys aren't raving about 3M Perfect It-II Rubbing Compound. I used it today on a black 2000 Mercedes E-430 that had some pretty heavy swirls and various defects and it made this baby look brand new again. I didn't get to finish the car because I ran out of daylight but I did get one application of RC on all the horizontal surfaces and all I can say is, WOW!! I used my PC with a white pad because I was afraid to use a cutting pad since it was the first time I used the product and you would have thought I polished on this thing for days. I am going to re-wash the car in a day or two and finish off the compounding and post some pics for you guys to see. I wish I would have taken some pics before I started. I just didn't have a clue as to how good this stuff was going to work. No hazing or anything, straight up shine and perfectly leveled paint. Beautiful.:D
 
Yeah tremendous amount of dust and when i had my Maxima, I didn't do anything for it :( I'm sure that car needed a rotary. Anyone compare PI II to PI III RC?
 
That it does, I was having a bit of trouble with the pad loading up on me and sending chunks everywhere but the end result is just phenominal. I plan on following up with 1Z MPP, AIO, and P21S. Unless my 1Z Glanz Wax comes in. If it does, then I will be using it instead of the AIO and P21S.
 
I've used PI III MG by PC with decent results. That said, speaking of rotary, as soon as I get my scrap metal here I'm going to try it with a rotary, and I'll also try the PI II RC to see how it fares with the rotary. I'm preparing to burn some paint :D
 
For a rubbing compound, could I replace DACP with a kind of aggresive compound so I could do it by hand. I don't want to use the PC? Anything to reccomend?



I would use SMR after it, so I don't know if that would be enough to remove the compounding haze?
 
I'm finding for hand application, the 1z polishes, Ultra is most aggressive, seem most effective by hand. In my case however,I almost always would need a PC even to remove some micromarring :rolleyes:
 
I use Perfect it III Rubbing Compound and Machine Glaze. Works great by hand and PC. I really like 3M compounds especialy the Perfect it III stuff. Plus you can get it local at most body shop supply stores.
 
Buick_guy said:
For a rubbing compound, could I replace DACP with a kind of aggresive compound so I could do it by hand. I don't want to use the PC? Anything to reccomend?



I would use SMR after it, so I don't know if that would be enough to remove the compounding haze?
Click to expand...



I was told that DACP isn't as aggressive as 1Z UPP, so that said, I would maybe try what Bill D said, go for the UPP by hand and see how it works. One thing I can tell you is, I've tried UPP with a cutting pad on the PC and didn't get mind blowing results so if DACP isn't as strong as UPP, I can only imagine how much elbow grease it's going to take to make anything happen at all by hand. I'd go for the most aggressive polish you can get your hands on but UPP would be a good starting point. You certainly can't mess anything up, that's for sure.
 
Yeah, I tried UP by cutting pad too, not a whole lot of improvement but maybe for small scratches by hand that dont respond to other polishes it might pack a punch.
 
A few observations, based on using these products on different paints from ss ('85 Jag, '84 Volvo) to hard b/c (current Audis, Subaru, Mazda):



PI-II RC (39002) seems a little more aggressive than PI-III RC (05933). Not a huge difference, they're both pretty mild.



PI-II dusts more.



PI-III might leave a slightly better finish.



Both can be used by hand, PC, or rotary. There are more aggressive 3m products that they claim can also be used with all three methods, such as Super Duty RC (05954) and PI-III Extra Cut (05936).



I'd follow any of these RCs with the PI-III MG (05937), which also works fine with any application method.
 
Be VERY careful with that Super Duty RC, its the MOST aggressive compound I've ever used. It's literally like liquid sand paper. The only paint I have that can withstand it without major scratching and potential wear through the paint ( happened to the Maxima) is my white clear Caddy Paint. I only use extremely sparingly to help get reduce small scratches. I just used it by handto attack a small scratch and I definitely follwed up with PP and MP



Accumulator--thanks for the comparision between PI II and PI III RC :xyxthumbs
 
Thanks Accumulator, that was exactly the info we were looking for. Is it me, or are all of these compounds and polishes stronger when used by hand? I was polishing some more on the black Mercedes today with UPP on the vertical surfaces since they weren't nearly as bad as the horizontal surfaces and put a little on my MF towel to catch the door handle areas (they are a perfect spot for scratches from fingernails and such) and you would have thought I was using all out sand paper. It left the whole area hazy and rough. I had to use some Scratch-X to smooth it back out. I'll never do that again, or at least if I do it will be VERY gently.
 
Hmm..at least on my Caddy 1z ultra can't make any progress by hand. Even when using it with a PC and wool pad, it improved scratches somewhat. I'm stuck with *difficult* paint on two cars :rolleyes:
 
Yeah, my 97 Explorer work truck is the same way. It doesn't matter if I use UPP, DACP, 3M RC, or just plain old 2k grit. That sucker always looks the same!!
 
ronald_m- Nope, no fillers in the 3M RCs.



JDookie- Sometimes it *does* work out that products can act more aggressive by hand. Especially when working a small area, where you're pressing down on a small spot (concentration of force). And note that hand application won't produce the heat that breaks down many products, so they stay aggressive.



To be honest, though, I didn't find this to be much of an issue with the 3M PI-II/III RCs. On the Jag and the Audi, I got a nearly-ready-to-wax finish in the tight spots I did by hand. But then, I've been using this stuff for a while, so maybe I'm used to working it longer.



BTW, you might need to follow up with something a little stronger than the MP, at least if you're using the "consumer" MP (the pink version). Hard to say, though.
 
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