3M Perfect-It III Machine Glaze

S

Steve @ Guru

New member
I tried this and reviewed it over at Roadfly. If you're interested in it, here's a link to the review.



I also did a "short take" review on the Porter Cable 7428 Rotary Buffer, it's in the same post. All in all, 3M's new Perfect-It III is incredible, and the PC 7428 is a monster...
 
How do you think the Perfect-It III will compare to DACP when using a PC?



Also, I have never used a wool pad with my pc and I was wondering:



1. Would it be okay to use with DACP for scratches? Any suggestions on how to use the wool pad with a PC.



2. How do you clean a wool pad after using it with a PC?



Thanks in advance for your help!!!:xyxthumbs :xyxthumbs



Cheers,

My Black 7 Series
 
Thanks For The Link. I Am Expecting My New PC 7428 Rotary To Arrive Monday, Im Excited And Nervous At The Same Time! Any Tips?
 
Funny you should ask, AMP - I was outside working with the PI-III and the PC when you were posting... :-)



It worked great - it buffs off so much easier than DACP, it's not even funny. Bret and I used DACP on his Saab when he was visiting me back in October - both of us commented on how difficult it was to remove. I think Meguiar's tweaked the formula or something, because I don't remember past versions of DACP being so hard to remove!



Re: wool, shouldn't be any problem. I've used a wool pad with the PC many times, and it works great, especially if you've got some stubborn defects. It's marginally more agressive than the yellow pad (I'd say maybe 30 - 45% more agressive, depending on how you use it (pressure, speed, etc)).



I clean my wool pads as normal; wash them by hand with a mild detergent, rinse well, shake dry and then let air dry. Not sure if it's the "proper" way, but it has served me well so far.



Bolton: I'd say start off with it on the slowest setting (1), use very light pressure and be prepared for it to feel sort-of "out-of-control". Try as I might to get it to go in nice, even figure-8's, it sorta skipped around from time to time...



The thing definitely has power- like I mentioned in the Roadfly post, it flipped the hood right off the saw horses without any problem. And watch out for that slinging! It could make quite a mess if you're not extremely concious of it.
 
Hey Geekysteve!



Great post! I have been using DACP with the rotary for quite awhile and really like it. I am not sure why you had trouble with the wipe off:confused: I actually find that it is one of the easiest to remove! :nixweiss Perhaps humidity or temperature was a factor? I know that I only use it with the Meg's Yellow Polishing pads (W8000). For some reason, the 3M black waffle pads(or the Meg's beige finishing pads W9000) just do not seem to go together with DACP??



I have to agree about the PI-III (with the 3M Black Waffle Perfect-It Plus pad). One Autopian suggested that I try it, and I have to say, it is a great product. However, I do not find it as abrassive as DACP. I know I should not say this too loud

but I tend to use DACP then PI-III, then #82 SFP, then #20 and recently started topping all this with S100!!:xyxthumbs All I can say is incredible!!



Hey Steve, could you give us more info on the temperature etc... . I am curious as to why the DACP was as difficult as it was. Did Meg's change the formula??? Did you try it with different pads??



Cheers!!
 
Sure thing, 2hot!



I played with the products for a few hours in what I would consider to be "ideal" temperature conditions. The air temp was in the low 70's, high 60's and humidity was a relatively low 28% (I keep my weatherstation in the garage)...



I tried all of the products with a few different types of pads; I used the CMA variable contour foam pads, the 3M waffle pads and the CMA "finger" (advanced) pads.



I think you hit the nail on the head- this was a brand new bottle of DACP; I had purchased it about a month ago and never opened it. I have long been of the opinion that Meguiar's is constantly tweaking their products, and I wonder if they didn't tweak something a little too much?



I also did not try the Meguiar's pads; I don't have any of the 8" ones, and couldn't get the smaller ones to work on the 7428.
 
Hey Steve!

I hope that Meg did not change the formula of DACP as I just bought a gallon of it!! :eek:



Maybe try it with the Meg yellow W8000 polishing pad. I think that you will get far better results. I really work it until only a light residue is left. That way I know that I buffed it down to its diminishing abrasives. Then it comes off really easily!! I really love the stuff, but if they did tweak the formula...:scared



Cheers!

Tim
 
Hey Steve you can clean wool pads by in a bucket of soapy water for about 1 hour take out and rinse with your garden hose shake out mount it on the rotary buffer Turn it on while on the floor and let it spin dry in 4 to 6 minutes it will be soft and dry Be careful when you first turn it on it will splach To clean it when you are buffing a car you use a spur
 
lawrencea said:
Hey Steve you can clean wool pads by in a bucket of soapy water for about 1 hour take out and rinse with your garden hose shake out mount it on the rotary buffer Turn it on while on the floor and let it spin dry in 4 to 6 minutes it will be soft and dry Be careful when you first turn it on it will splach To clean it when you are buffing a car you use a spur
Click to expand...



Wool pads should not be "washed". They should be cleaned with a pad spur. Drying a pad by running it on a buffer is also not a good idea. It can cause the backing (hook and loop material) to seperate from the pad itself.
 
ShowroomLincoln,



I am thinking about getting a couple of wool pads to use with my PC. How would I go about cleaning them since I don't have a rotary?



Let me know what you think.



Thanks in avance! :D



Cheers,

My Black 7 Series
 
Amp,



You could use a pad spur, but it might not work as well for DA pads. You can always go the cheapo route, a soft brissle tooth brush. :D With the pad on the machine and running draw the brush (or spur) across the pad in a straight line starting from the center and pulling out.



Works like a charm. :up
 
It this product more of a filler product like IHG, a cutting product like SMR, or a good combination of both? I guess what I am asking is, does it actually remove the swirls or just cover them up really well? Would it benefit from topping with something that is a pure filler before the wax?



Thanks. :bow
 
Hey Steve,



Make sure to try the DACP with a Meg's Yellow polishing pad.



I really love the PI-III Machine Glaze with the 3M black waffle pad!! The only problem is sling!! This stuff slings everywhere!!



Have fun and let us know!!!:xyxthumbs



Tim
 
2hotford said:
Hey Steve,



Make sure to try the DACP with a Meg's Yellow polishing pad.



I really love the PI-III Machine Glaze with the 3M black waffle pad!! The only problem is sling!! This stuff slings everywhere!!



Have fun and let us know!!!:xyxthumbs



Tim
Click to expand...



Tim,

Are you using PI-III MG with a rotary, because with the PC I do not have sling problem using PI-III MG?



Also, I will have to remeber to try DACP with a Meg's yellow pad.



Eric
 
Hi Eric,

Yup, I am using a rotary buffer. I do all my final, final work with the PC. I love them both! The PI-III MG with the Rotary is an awesome product!! I have not tried it with the PC yet but will soon!



:D



Oh, as for DACP with the yellow polishing pad...I love that combination! For some reason, it seems to work the best for me (w/ rotary) than other pads.:nixweiss



Tim
 
Ok. I spent two days playing with various buffers (the rotary and the PC), various pads (the 3M waffles, the CMA finger pads and the CMA variable contour pads).



I tried all sorts of products and techniques, and I still find myself liking the 3M Perfect-It III best of all the products.



I tried:

--------



Meguiar's DACP

Meguiar's SMR #9 v2.0



3M FI-II

3M SMR

3M PI-III



Menzerna IP

Menzerna FP





Bascially, all of the products appeared to be very similar to one another, especially when used with the PC7428 rotary buffer. I believe the rotary is so effective at cleaning that the actual product plays less of a roll in the performance.



With the PC7336, the products behaved a little differently, but again, they were very close in performance.



I applied each of the products per the manufacturer's instructions, and I used similar buffer technique on all products. Speeds on the rotary were kept within product mfg recommendations. I worked the products until they were completely dry and nearly buffed clean. Residue was then wiped with a clean microfiber cloth.



Each panel was washed with Dawn first, and clayed. Nothing else was done to the panels.



I'm not going to do a huge write-up on it; but I'll summarize here. Take it for what it's worth...



Meguiar's DACP: "flashed" very quickly; left semi-oily feeling finish afterward. Evidence of buffer marks somewhat visible, but I believe it was mostly a result of the oily finish. No perceptible performance difference when using different pads. Residue was hard to buff off, especially the "sling". I suspect Meguiar's has changed their formula, as my last bottle of DACP held the distinction of being my favorite product.



Meguiar's #9 SMR v2.0: Very mild product, left very slight residue behind, but not anything like the DACP. This bottle was bought about 8 months ago; formula may have changed. Fairly easy to buff residue away; slight "film" remained. Seemed to work better with the PC7336 for some reason (slower to flash?).



3M FI-II: moderate flash speed; left surface feeling 'squeaky' clean. Residue was fairly easy to remove, about like Meg's #9. No evidence of buffer swirls; seemed to cut a lot better with the rotary (as expected); easier to control with the PC7336.



3M SMR: moderate to slow flash speed; left surface feeling clean, but somewhat slick. No evidence of oily residue. More aggressive than the Meguiar's SMR, but only slightly. Residue was easy to remove.



3M PI-III: slow flash speed; easy to work with when using either buffer. Worked like FI-II, but left surface feeling polished/glazed afterward. Swore there was an oily film, but fingerprint tests and alcohol wipe shoed it was just a glossy finish. Residue was easy to remove.



Menzerna IP: Similar to FI-II. moderate flash speed, slightly oily finish when done. Surface felt clean, but had minor oily film. Easy to buff off, about like FI-II. Cut ok; could really "get after it" with the PC7336.



Menzerna FP: moderate-to-slow flash speed, about like 3M SMR. Residue was slightly more difficult to remove than 3M SMR, but nothing extremely difficult. Very faint hint of oily finish, but with a few extra buffs, it appeared clean.







I also played with some Mothers Pro products, but I need to follow-up with them some more. Again, none of the products performed extremely poorly; differences were slight between them all. If you're using DACP, keep using it, I just have a feeling the formula has changed.



If you haven't tried Menzerna or 3M PI-III, you might want to consider them. Between the 3 products, I'd probably go with the FI-III, simply because it seems to do the work of both of the Menzerna products. It works well with a random orbital or a rotary (same with Menzerna).
 
I just used DACP for the first time today, and l'll tell you what this stuff was very hard to work with. Like geekysteve i found the residue to be very hard to buff off. the sling was nearly impossible to remove.



Man i wish i could have read this post before i started buffing today.:angry



I've used PI-III MG for over a year now and i love the stuff.



I like to use FT-II on med swirls and scratches, i also think FI-II works best with a foam compounding pad.
 
Geeky, when you said FI-III I assume you meant FI-II?



Basically from reading your post (very nice, BTW), it seems that PI-III MG is a product like FI-II and SMR rolled into one? Am I correct in simplifying your results into a statement like the above?



It was interesting to read your comments on the Meg vs. 3M removal. Good information. :up



- Anthony
 
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