3M Perfect It - For Dark Cars

2002 Maxima SE- The MG is pretty easy to use, I'm pretty sure you'll do fine.

Yeah, I apply it with a foam pad, though a MF will work too.



Work it until it's about gone, that'll ensure that you break down the abrasives (not hard to do).



I dunno if I really let it "haze", that sounds like a wax technique...work it as long as you feel is reasonable and wipe it off with a good MF. See what you get, you'll get a feel for the product pretty quickly.
 
2002 Maxima SE said:
So, what about the hazing? Is that just chemicals or do I need something to fix that now too?



I did get hazing once when it was only 40 degrees in my garage, I assumed it wasn't completely dry yet and I ended up using GEPC to clean it off. But give PI-III MG a try, it's better and 3M offers free shipping too.
 
I went by the local parts store the other day and picked up some Mequiars Cleaner (Step 1) and Mequiars Polish (Step 2). I have used the Protect-It Swirl Glaze for Dark Cars and PUPP on a number of occasions, I have not used a cleaner or polish in some time.



On a small section, I tested and found that seemed to clean off the hazing...but now I'm back to square one with my swirls. Perhaps it is time to get #9 and a good PC.
 
2002 Maxima SE said:
...but now I'm back to square one with my swirls. Perhaps it is time to get #9 and a good PC.



At least you're making some kind of progress. Yeah, if you can swing the cost of a PC it can be a real time/labor saver. That #9 is awfully mild, so I dunno if that's gonna be your best choice. #80 is stronger, and will still leave a ready-to-wax finish.
 
Accumulator said:
At least you're making some kind of progress. Yeah, if you can swing the cost of a PC it can be a real time/labor saver. That #9 is awfully mild, so I dunno if that's gonna be your best choice. #80 is stronger, and will still leave a ready-to-wax finish.



Yeah, I want to go as mild as I can since it will be my first time with a PC. Might take me several passes, but I should see results.
 
2002 Maxima SE said:
Yeah, I want to go as mild as I can since it will be my first time with a PC. Might take me several passes, but I should see results.



Or maybe NOT ;) Don't expect TOO much aggressiveness from the PC. A LOT of people start PCing with 3M's PI-III MG (pn 05937), which has more cut than #9. They find that it does NOT work as aggressively as they wanted/expected it to.



Yeah, we always say "start mild", "err on the side of caution", etc., but I'd consider something a little stronger. I can honestly imagine you spending HOURS with the #9 and not having much to show for it. If you were using a rotary that would be different, but with the PC I don't see it being the best choice.



OK, enough of my $0.02 :o Don't mean to keep doing a hard-sell on some other product.
 
Accumulator said:
Or maybe NOT ;) Don't expect TOO much aggressiveness from the PC. A LOT of people start PCing with 3M's PI-III MG (pn 05937), which has more cut than #9. They find that it does NOT work as aggressively as they wanted/expected it to.



Yeah, we always say "start mild", "err on the side of caution", etc., but I'd consider something a little stronger. I can honestly imagine you spending HOURS with the #9 and not having much to show for it. If you were using a rotary that would be different, but with the PC I don't see it being the best choice.



OK, enough of my $0.02 :o Don't mean to keep doing a hard-sell on some other product.



Yes, I can attest to this,I used the PI III MG last year with my PC on clear coat white, I thought I would get better results.



Im thinking of using it exclusively as a next to last product.
 
Accumulator said:
Or maybe NOT ;) Don't expect TOO much aggressiveness from the PC. A LOT of people start PCing with 3M's PI-III MG (pn 05937), which has more cut than #9. They find that it does NOT work as aggressively as they wanted/expected it to.



Yeah, we always say "start mild", "err on the side of caution", etc., but I'd consider something a little stronger. I can honestly imagine you spending HOURS with the #9 and not having much to show for it. If you were using a rotary that would be different, but with the PC I don't see it being the best choice.



OK, enough of my $0.02 :o Don't mean to keep doing a hard-sell on some other product.



A few questions:



1)What is the difference between a PC and Rotary?

2)My wife bought me a Random Orbital Buffer (Wal-Mart I think) a few years ago, would that do me any good?



6da47742a62d733dd5a165caa5aac86c1-resized200.jpg
 
2002 Maxima SE said:
A few questions:



1)What is the difference between a PC and Rotary?

2)My wife bought me a Random Orbital Buffer (Wal-Mart I think) a few years ago, would that do me any good?



6da47742a62d733dd5a165caa5aac86c1-resized200.jpg



1) The rotary is a high-speed polisher that has a steep learning curve. It can do things that are impossible to do by hand or with other machines. It can also do serious damage if used improperly, so the PC is a MUCH better choice for most applications.



2) The orbital you have will work better of wax application than for polishing. Will it work with abrasives? :nixweiss Don't count on it. It probably lacks the power you need to do paint correction. Even with a PC, it can be a tall order. If you get a PC, I doubt you'll use that unit for anything.
 
I used to use orbitals like the one pictured for a long time before I learned about the PC. No wonder I was wondering why my swirls weren't improving. :). I got rid of the orbitals and am pleased with my PC. I now store my PC in the handy Waxmaster orbital's container (comes in a blue container, got at WalMart)
 
Accumulator said:
1) The rotary is a high-speed polisher that has a steep learning curve. It can do things that are impossible to do by hand or with other machines. It can also do serious damage if used improperly, so the PC is a MUCH better choice for most applications.



2) The orbital you have will work better of wax application than for polishing. Will it work with abrasives? :nixweiss Don't count on it. It probably lacks the power you need to do paint correction. Even with a PC, it can be a tall order. If you get a PC, I doubt you'll use that unit for anything.



So, a rotary is a PC but it spins faster?



Yeah, the orbital doesn't have much power. Makes it easy to put on and take off waxy but with all the curves on my car, I rarely use it. The 10" pad is hard to maneuver in tight places.
 
2002 Maxima SE said:
So, a rotary is a PC but it spins faster?






No a rotary spins in a circle more like a angle grinder..



A PC ( Porter Cable ) DA/RO Dual Action Random Orbital not only spins in a circle but randomly within that circle. Like vibrating within the circle.



Did I just confuse you .. cuz I think I confused me.



Here is a good thread that might help you



PC help
 
Yeah, the rotary spins like an electric drill, it (only) rotates. The random orbitals (from the WaxMaster to the PC to the Cyclo) move in non-circular (elliptical?) orbits that are supposedly random, they sorta "jiggle" back and forth/up and down while spinning. The PCs also change their behavior (less spinning, more jiggling) when you bear down on them, while the rotary just keeps on spinning/rotating no matter what. Thus the efforts of the rotary are more concentrated and generate more heat.
 
Ever use a spirograph? Where you put a pen and it draws all those cool elliptical shapes? Think of a PC like that - A rotary spins like a record baby, right round round round.... :) -
 
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