3.5" Backing Plate Failed

this is what happens when you go to a shotty repaint guy, lots of cc failure. if you notice, these scratches are a bit more that swirls, some are almost straight. these couldnt be removed by 4 passes with the pc, speed 5, yellow pad, and megs DACP. im going to take the rotary to it next week. disregard the mud, this is my fun car. few pictures...



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oh i know about the cc failure, if anything...it will just make it more noticable. but 4 passes didnt even begin to touch the defects. the 4th picture really shows what im talking about, i couldnt really capture the swirls to the extent i wanted to. but if i didnt own a rotary, im sure i could spend a good 4 hours just trying to buff out that hood...probably without much success. ill attempt buffing it out once i get the brakes fixed, and ill be sure to post a before and after.



anyway, the point i was trying to make is that for an enthusiast, the pc is a great all around tool. but for somebody that has to buff out a heavily swirled car in a matter of hours, a rotary is a much more effiecient tool. something the pc just isnt capable of, it just doesnt generate enough cutting power...but it sure is one hell of a finishing tool.
 
yuk i hate crappy repaints, but i always seem to be working on them

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Also used DACP, first i had to remove all the oxidation, then all the swirls under the oxidation
 
jeen said:
anyway, the point i was trying to make is that for an enthusiast, the pc is a great all around tool. but for somebody that has to buff out a heavily swirled car in a matter of hours, a rotary is a much more effiecient tool. something the pc just isnt capable of, it just doesnt generate enough cutting power...but it sure is one hell of a finishing tool.
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For some poor suckers like me, I don't have a rotary and frankly I admit I would have to develop the skills to use one safely before I took one to my car. I have been surprised just how much correction you can do with a PC and quality polish such as Optimum Hyper Compound and a 4" pad. And yes, I have gone to speed 6 on that combo. Perhaps one of these days I'll step up to a rotary, but since my car's going in for a repaint this month, I'm *hoping* it won't be necessary for awhile. Yes the rotary is more efficient, without question.
 
the backing plates in general arent made to go up to speed 6, so when you push them like that, you're kind of testing your luck. the velcro has a tendency to heat up a bit too much when the machine is pushed up that high, causing it to fail. you really shouldnt have to push the machine up that high, but if you do, just be sure to keep an eye on it.
 
I have a DVD that came with the PC that mentions only going to 5, but doesn't tell you why. Now that I know about backing plate failure and Velcro failure, I know what to watch for. I may not have gone to 6 on my own, but heard others recommending that, along with the 4" pads for paint correction. It definitely does work well while it works.



Since we're dealing with a number of variables here, I'm not sure that changing products, pads, arm speed and pressure will fully duplicate the results you would get from the "6" speed, but I'm not sure that they wouldn't either, and since I don't want to ruin my paint from a damaged backing plate or failed Velcro, I'll keep the speed down. Like others, I don't have a rotary (but will probably get one eventually), and was trying to correct 3 years of poor auto care ( didn't really know any better, and didn't have the time to detail) and 3 years of a dealer washing my car and causing all sorts of problems. Then, the dealer repainted the hood and fenders because I pointed out how badly they had scratched the car, and it was chipping like crazy (it's an '03 Mercedes with single stage black paint- they topped with clearcoat). The rotary guy at the dealer was terrible, causing massive holograms, buffer marks and scratches. They also said they would buff out the scratches all over the car and all they did was throw on wax with fillers and caused more damage in the process.



I've been working on the car off and on for weeks and it really is looking great. Had I known the time it would take with the PC, I may have gotten a rotary, but I am somewhat leery of tring one. I've seen 4 people use them in this area, 2 of these are supposedly "experts", or "masters", and I haven't seen one that can leave the car in acceptable shape. So, I'm forced to learn it and do it myself. I also have an '06 Ford F-250 Harley Davidson Crew Cab in black, and I want to maintain it in it's present, almost perfect condition. Thanks for all the input and suggestions. BTW, I already got the replacement backing plate from AutoGeek. They shipped it Next Day Air at their cost. Great place.



These are the "before pics" and I'll post more pics of the Benz when I get it done.
 

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I mentioned my truck in the last post. I threw it in there to show what I was talking about. That is the truck when I bought it in the spring. It's great, but there is some orange peel that bugs me. I don't think I'll be wet-sanding it, though.
 
jeen said:
the backing plates in general arent made to go up to speed 6, so when you push them like that, you're kind of testing your luck. the velcro has a tendency to heat up a bit too much when the machine is pushed up that high, causing it to fail. you really shouldnt have to push the machine up that high, but if you do, just be sure to keep an eye on it.
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The Meguiars backing plate definitely cannot take repeated heavy polishing with the speed on 6. It heats up badly and the velcro actually melts. I now have the 6" backing plate that excel detail sells and the difference is night and day. I can polish all day with the speed on 6 using heavy pressure with no problems, the face of the BP gets warm but not hot to the touch. Now that I have my Cyclo though, I don't use my PC nearly as much-but I have a good 7-8 months now with the excel detail backing plate and it still looks and performs as well as the day I got it.
 
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