2nd time with the rotary...

[Ralliart16]

Alright, second time now. The first time I got a good feel for it.. but I burned some edges Doesn't matter though, was on a car that will be getting repainted soon.



Anyhoo.. brother's car now with SEVERE oxidation.

At first I thought I was going to have to hit it with black wool and megs #85, but I decided to start off mild and see where that got me. First washed and clayed it (surprisingly the clay bar didn't get very dirty).



Then hit it with an 8" edge green wool and megs #83. Worked GREAT. I really don't like using wool though, because its really hard to see how close I am getting to the edge with them. I burned the edge my first time with the wool pad.. thats why I'm afraid to get close to the edges with them.



After I hit most of the area with the green wool I went with the orange pad and 83. Like I said I probably could've just used the wool the whole time but I like using the foam better. I was able to get up to the edges and crease lines better.



Here it is just after the orange and 83:

Of course it looks 'perfect' because of the lighting. Anyway, I noticed that if you get really close.. there are TONS of defects in the clear, almost like Mercedes Benz signs. It looks like dust when you're looking at it from afar.

Yes there are micro swirls, still need to go over with the white pad and megs #80.



What exactly are all those little defects? I'm having trouble imaging what caused them.



Also. how does everyone polished the edges and against tight sharp creases, like on each side of the hood. I went really slow and carefully and even then couldn't 100% get into the crease where it was slightly oxidized. Having a 8" pad doesn't make it any easier...

 

[BigAl3]

was curious... what speed were your running it at?

 

[Ralliart16]

I make an initial pass or two at 1500 or so RPMS. I then notch it down to about 1200 or so.



I keep a close on on how hot the panel gets.. periodically feeling them right after a pass. Hasn't got above "very warm" yet.

 

[White lexus 23]

what your seeing is is a poor repaint that bubbled when you polished the hood it sorta cuf off the areas where it bubbled up and thats why your seeing all those little mercedes looking marks. i had the same issue with a black jeep. I dont really think theres much you can do about it.

 

[Envious Eric]

its paint checking...cant do anything but repaint again...



if you think 1500 is good, kick it up to 1700 on a wool pad and watch defects just disappear! but obviously watch the edges, move the buffer a little faster, and realize your polish will clear faster...I was blown away when the AUDI's I detailed today came out better than ever in less time...I have used the rotary on probably only 20 details now...I LOVE IT...rotary, lc foamed wool, and HTEC = perfect combo IMO...for harder than normal paints that is....

 

[Brian_Brice]

I'd say it's what's refered to as crow's feet, call it what you want but I would say ime not even sanding the paint down will remove that type of clear coat failure, or any for that matter.

 

[Ralliart16]

thanks for the advice. Yea, I figured it had been repainted.. when I polished the roof... it was single stage



Brother bought it from carmax a long time ago.. so who knows its history. It looks a lot better than it did before, so my brother is happy. A few feet away you can barely even notice the clearcoat defects.



One question though - if you look at the hood, there are two body lines on each side... how can I polish these creases heavily without burning the clear?? I tried a heavy angle with an EDGE foam pad.. but I didn't go really high in RPMs in fear of burning the paint.



I also went really slow on the edges too in fear of burning them.. is that what most people do? Go slower on the edges? But the problem here is the hood was oxidized badly all the way up to the edge.. so if I just feathered the edge the oxidation would remain on the edges.

 

[Ralliart16]

actually to answer my own question.. after reading some more threads it seems regarding edges people either



A) Don't buff edges and hand buff them



or



B) Go really slow / trigger feathering.



But once again this will be hard to achieve major correction if its heavily oxidized. Is it possible to burn edges with a UDM? Say I have a UDM, and a 4" orange spot pad. If it put it directly on an edge and apply pressure and run it at speed 6, could I burn the edge? Of course the UDM/PC main selling point is that you virtually cannot burn the paint, but I am wondering if you could in this condition.

 

[superchargedg]

actually to answer my own question.. after reading some more threads it seems regarding edges people either



A) Don't buff edges and hand buff them



or



B) Go really slow / trigger feathering.



But once again this will be hard to achieve major correction if its heavily oxidized. Is it possible to burn edges with a UDM? Say I have a UDM, and a 4" orange spot pad. If it put it directly on an edge and apply pressure and run it at speed 6, could I burn the edge? Of course the UDM/PC main selling point is that you virtually cannot burn the paint, but I am wondering if you could in this condition.

You would really need to put a awful lot of pressure on a 4" pad to burn the paint........that is if you left it in one spot.I am getting ready to try the rotary for the first time and am scared to death that im gonna screw up.

 

[imported_smprince1]

You would really need to put a awful lot of pressure on a 4" pad to burn the paint........that is if you left it in one spot.

I don't know if I agree with this .... an aggressive, stiff 4" pad and you could burn the paint on an edge even without an "awful lot of pressure". With care and common sense it can be done safely...but I would not get distracted or careless.

 

[gocubbies]

You would really need to put a awful lot of pressure on a 4" pad to burn the paint........that is if you left it in one spot.I am getting ready to try the rotary for the first time and am scared to death that im gonna screw up.

dont be scared to use rotary. just respect the correcting abilities of the machine. thing of it has anything else in life. if your scared and do it anyways something always goes wrong. but if you just do it and respect everyone and thing involved usually turns out pretty good.





ralliart: not sure if you are aware of this or not. but foam generates more heat than wool. so you have a better chance burning the paint using the foam pads.

nice turn around on the car.

 

[superchargedg]

I don't know if I agree with this .... an aggressive, stiff 4" pad and you could burn the paint on an edge even without an "awful lot of pressure". With care and common sense it can be done safely...but I would not get distracted or careless.

You are right i just worded it wrong.........yes a 4" pad can and will burn the edge,s if you are not careful but it is a whole lot harder to do then a rotary.I am off tomorrow and i think im gonna give the rotary a chance(can you say im a little apprehensive).

 

[imported_smprince1]

You are right i just worded it wrong.........yes a 4" pad can and will burn the edge,s if you are not careful but it is a whole lot harder to do then a rotary.I am off tomorrow and i think im gonna give the rotary a chance(can you say im a little apprehensive).

Agree, it is safer than with a rotary ... I just didn't want somebody to think they could just go crazy and never cause a problem.