2010 Jaguar IF Supercharged

B

bbquer

New member
To remove small scratches. I think i got small scratches and swirls marks from washing the car. They are not major.

Will the white polishing pad with 3M SMR be enough ?

or maybe the yellow pad ?

How do you know if You have to use a wool leveling pad on the swirls ?
 
Wool leveling pads should only be used for pretty bad swirls, if you swirls are very light you don't need it. Try the polishing pad with the SMR first, in most cases that will get the job done for very light swirls. If that is not enought then you can step up to the cutting pad. :up :up



Remember SMR is not very strong at all, you may have to step up to a more abrasive product.
 
Irvin,





Meguiar's "SoftBuff" Foam Cutting pad #W-7006. I've had great success with 3M products like Perfect-IT II and even Swirl Mark Remover on clear coated paints.



For very shallow swirls or scratches you can use the buffing pad #W8006. This pad is the workhorse for minor issues on the surface of the paint. It's not as aggressive at the cutting pad, but still stiff enough to hold it's shape while applying medium pressure to the area your working on. Please check it out.



The use of wool pads is the last resort or used in the event that the car's finish is so bad that extensive oxidation is on top of the paint's finish. You would then have to switch to foam pads in a three or four step process to get the wet gloss back to the surface.



The pad I'm talking about can be used with a rotary buffer or a D.A. polisher like the Porter Cable 7424.



Hope this helps you :)
 
Irvin I would start out using SMR on a white pad. You can always step up in abrasives and pads if that doesn't do the job. My next step if that didn't work would be FI II on a white pad.
 
If your using the weaker 3M swirl mark remover for the smaller swirls I would use the pad that is designed for mild action (the white).



If the swirls are small you should be able to remove everything with the white pad without taking a chance of hurting your cars finish. There's always a risk but it's alot less with that combo.
 
Irvin,



Are you even using a buffer/polisher or are you doing this by hand? The white pad that people are speaking about in this thread is really bad (if it's the one that come's with the PC7424. It's very soft and made more for finish buffing, not for rubbing compounds of any cut.)



The pads I've mentioned are for use with power buffing/polishing only.



Please clarifiy for us, so we can better direct you to the proper type. :)
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Irvin [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>i'm talking about the white pad from the DM-kit offered by CMA. [/b]</blockquote>
The white pad is more geared towards finish buffing. I think you'd be much more happy using a bit stiffer pad to remove swirls. Give it a try and I think you'll see a difference. You'll spend less time with a yellow pad and get better results.
 
I detailed this 2010 Jag IF a few weeks back. This is the big boy with the super charger under the hood. The car has about 1K miles on the clock. I got ahold of the car about 3 weeks after the current owner purchased it. He told me the owner of the dealership had been using the car as a daily driver. The dealership was a bit sloppy with the wax, as normal, before the current owner took delivery.


207-1.jpg

205-1.jpg

206.jpg


192.jpg

202.jpg

190.jpg

189.jpg

193.jpg


213.jpg

215.jpg


I washed the car with dawn to strip the existing LSP. The car was then clayed and them given an IPA wipedown. Paint was polished via the flex 3401 on speed 6. I used tangerine pads with Meguairs 205. The PC was also used with a 4? orange pad for the tighter areas. The swirls where light for the most part but some area required 2 passes. The paint was then jeweled with 3M ultafina using my Makita 9227 with a black Lake County pad. For the LSP I Polycharged some Meguairs #21 sealant and applied 2 coats.


027.jpg

029.jpg

031.jpg

025.jpg


My helper wanted a little bit of credit


033.jpg


A better look at the flake in the paint

051.jpg

052.jpg


After letting the sealant cure overnight I wiped the car down with Optimum spray wax. Optimum wax really made the flake pop. I really like this spray wax by the way. The light was better the next day so that helped as well.


059.jpg

064.jpg

075.jpg

079.jpg

078.jpg
 
Looks great!

I'm curious about your comment:

"Paint was polished via the flex 3401 on speed 6. I used tangerine pads with Meguairs 205. "

I always found my polishing with the Flex was better at lower speeds, say 3 to 4 but I jewel at 5.5 - how did you come to select full speed with the Flex / tangerine / 205 combo?

Regards,
GEWB
 
gewb said:
Looks great!

I'm curious about your comment:

"Paint was polished via the flex 3401 on speed 6. I used tangerine pads with Meguairs 205. "

I always found my polishing with the Flex was better at lower speeds, say 3 to 4 but I jewel at 5.5 - how did you come to selectly full speed with the Flex / tangerine / 205 combo?

Regards,
GEWB
Click to expand...

I started high and backed it back down to a slower speed. Maybe I should try using the lower speeds. I purchased my flex second hand over a year ago and not really used it that much.
 
broker99 said:
I started high and backed it back down to a slower speed. Maybe I should try using the lower speeds. I purchased my flex second hand over a year ago and not really used it that much.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply. I'm just trying to learn more about using my Flex!

Regards,
GEWB
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top