2005 Black Hummer H2

H

HumSki

New member
Hello,



I find myself reading Autopia posts late into the night, getting more and more obsessively hooked, I went out a made the first purchase....... a "PC". So far I'm safe, only because It's still in the box. Hopefully soon getting my nerve to lay it on some paint. Just need to get some feedback first.



I realize sometimes newbieâ€â„¢s have the same boring questions, but I reckon our newbie lack of confidence, inexperience, and seemingly unique circumstances might warrant me to post this typical newbie post.



Approximately Six months ago I purchased a new Black 2005 HUMMER H2 (hence my handle). I found out its one big mother just to wash! I went out and paid $45 for a 1.6 cu. ft. Dionized Water tank to help with spotless drying. Tank usually lasts me two to three months, and then cost $45 to exchange. This is a huge help in washing the black monster.



Seeking your suggestions and advice if I'm missing a product and/or the correct sequence for the H2. My best shot:



1) Wash with Meg Gold Class

2) Clay with Clay Magic and lube

3) SSR1 or SSR2 if necessary w/PC (prefer to go light on paint polish if possible)

4) AIO w/ PC (yes, this might not be necessary. right? Your thoughts)

5) WG by hand or PC?

6) Souveran by hand



H2 has little to no swirls. Some slight spider webs. Since new, I've been cautiously washing with two buckets, two mitts and always dried with DI water only.



Regards,

HumSki (San Diego)
 
1) Wash with Meg Gold Class

good



2) Clay with Clay Magic and lube

good



3) SSR1 or SSR2 if necessary w/PC (prefer to go light on paint polish if possible)

I would use SSR2 as needed, but skip SSR1 and just use AIO instead. SSR2 will break down nicely to not need SSR1.



4) AIO w/ PC (yes, this might not be necessary. right? Your thoughts)

I would go with AIO over SSR1.





5) WG by hand or PC?

Both will work. I guess you would want to go by pc to save your arm.





6) Souveran by hand

Great!





Hope this helps :D
 
How does Meg. #80 stack up againist SSR2? Would this be a bit harsher or lighter on paint?



Do most autopians use AIO with PC or hand?



Thanks
 
I would say that #80 is pretty similar to SSR2 in abrasiveness.



AIO can be applied by hand or PC. I prefer to apply it by PC, but I've also applied it by hand.
 
I realize I'll probably be very pleased with either polishing products and given my current paint condition, would it make more sense to go with SSR2 or #80?
 
HumSki said:
I realize I'll probably be very pleased with either polishing products and given my current paint condition, would it make more sense to go with SSR2 or #80?
Click to expand...



On black paint, you may like #80 more because I think it leaves a deeper finish because it has Meguiars trade secret polishing oils in it. You can't use it in the sun though.
 
Scottwax said:
On black paint, you may like #80 more because I think it leaves a deeper finish because it has Meguiars trade secret polishing oils in it. You can't use it in the sun though.
Click to expand...



When following #80 with AIO, will AIO strip out the "trade secret polishing oils"? Is it okay to follow #80 w/ AIO?



Thanks,
 
mrecktid said:
1.6cu ft of water? That doesn't sound like too much, how much do you spray on?
Click to expand...



1.6 cu ft is the spun fiberglass cylinder size that contains the filtering ingredients that create DI water. My tank has a quality light that tells me when the DI water quality requires a new tank. The average 1.6 cu ft mixed tank delivers approximately 300 gallons of DI quality water. Like I mentioned earlier this usually last me two to three months. DI water is not soft water, RO water, or distilled water. Hospitals use this in their labs for sterile requirements. All most all of your large automotive dealerships wash their new cars with DI water trucked around on portable DI carts. This allows dealerships, rental car companies, etc. to wash 100's of cars (basically rinsing) every day.



The method I use to apply the DI water is a low volume spray nozzle. You learn to conserve, and sheet water in a way that is most efficient (I'm guessing I use 5 to 10 gallons per wash on H2). I literally do not touch my car after the final DI rinse. On black its a huge time saver. I live in San Diego and have three different companies that regenerate DI tanks. Smaller towns may not have this option? It took some digging to find these guys.



IMO once you have used "True" DI water its hard to go back to WWâ€â„¢s or MFâ€â„¢s for drying water. I donâ€â„¢t know of any drawbacks other than costs ($45 every two to three months).



Thanks.
 
HumSki said:
When following #80 with AIO, will AIO strip out the "trade secret polishing oils"? Is it okay to follow #80 w/ AIO?



Thanks,
Click to expand...



It will slightly flatten out the look but #80/AIO is still a killer combo. You may want to try a panel or two using AIO then Wolfgang and a couple more going straight from #80 to Wolfgang. See which one you like best.
 
Scottwax said:
You can't use it in the sun though.
Click to expand...



I did that today with mid 80 temp on 2 super crews and it worked ok but you have to make about a thousand passes to work it in, it removed like a breeze.
 
Scottwax said:
It will slightly flatten out the look but #80/AIO is still a killer combo. You may want to try a panel or two using AIO then Wolfgang and a couple more going straight from #80 to Wolfgang. See which one you like best.
Click to expand...



In your opinion what is the correct way to use #80? From what I'm hearing in the shade (i.e. garage?). What setting on the PC? Will it almost disappear into paint? How long before you wipe down with MF (if this is correct?). Missing anything?



Thanks a ton! I will post pics when done
 
HumSki said:
In your opinion what is the correct way to use #80? From what I'm hearing in the shade (i.e. garage?). What setting on the PC? Will it almost disappear into paint? How long before you wipe down with MF (if this is correct?). Missing anything?



Thanks a ton! I will post pics when done
Click to expand...



I have yet to detail my first car with a PC but this is what I have been learning since I've been here. Please correct me if I'm wrong but this is what I read from other threads, I think...



I am not really sure if there is a "correct" way, so to speak, to use #80. From what Patrick, from Excel Detail, has told me, he says he applies product at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock position on the pad and smears it in the work area of about 2' x 2'. He sets the PC on the surface and turns the PC on and starts at a speed of 3 - 4 in a left and right motion. He then makes another pass increasing the speed of 4 - 5 in an up and down motion and finally finishes with the last pass at a speed 5 - 6 in a left and right motion again.



As far as it being used in the shade, it would be strongly advised to do so. They only product line that I'm aware of that you can use in the sun is the Poorboy's product line.



I think it will almost just about disappear in the paint but I wouldn't exactly know since I've never used it.



After applying #80 to all your panels and such, I think enough time will have passed to wipe down what you have applied. A nice polishing MF towel will do by hand or a polishing bonnet by PC.



I hope I have helped. :wavey
 
#80 breaks down pretty fast, so apply it like Denzil mentioned to about a 2' x 2' area. You'll know when it breaks down because it will change color to clear (or sometimes pink), then buff it off with a MF and move on to the next section. It isn't very sun friendly so make sure you're working on a cool surface in the shade if possible. HTH
 
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