2003 Nighthawk Honda Accord

WOW! Those pics are jaw dropping. I can definitely see when you make the point that it looks black, but close-up it's actually a metallic blue. GOOD JOB!



TrufflePig, I now have a renewed sense of faith and hope in M83! I tried it last time, and I really had trouble getting it to work long enough to give proper correction. Could you please give a detailed explanation of how you got the M83 to work? For example, PC speed, QD's sprays (if any), how long to work on surface, how large a surface area to work at a time, how many passes were necessary, etc..



I would appreciate it A LOT if you could do this for me. I don't want to leave my M83 to waste...
 
mikebai1990 said:
WOW! Those pics are jaw dropping. I can definitely see when you make the point that it looks black, but close-up it's actually a metallic blue. GOOD JOB!



TrufflePig, I now have a renewed sense of faith and hope in M83! I tried it last time, and I really had trouble getting it to work long enough to give proper correction. Could you please give a detailed explanation of how you got the M83 to work? For example, PC speed, QD's sprays (if any), how long to work on surface, how large a surface area to work at a time, how many passes were necessary, etc..



I would appreciate it A LOT if you could do this for me. I don't want to leave my M83 to waste...
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Okay I'll do my best to explain to you as easy as possible. I've included some pics for you to see my work area but keep in mind I was using M80 in the pics but the process is still the same just different product.



All info assuming you've washed and given the car a good clay bar passing.



1. Work in small areas and by that I mean 12 x 12. As you can see below I work in very small sections on each panel one by one.



MiniCooperSWorkingArea.JPG




MiniCooperSWorkingArea1.JPG




Any bigger than these areas and you'll be just trying to do to much correction. This is how I start it up.



I place my W-8006 pad on my PC and then add some product in a nice circle along the edge of the pad. I kiss the surface in 4 different spots making a square (so essentially you're placing product in four corners of your 12 x 12 section).



I turn the machine on to 1 or 2 and spread the product out evenly.



I then turn the machine up to 5 as that is the speed that is need for correction and slowly begin to make my passes. I make about 3-4 passes. I pass upwards, 1 pass downwards, 1 pass to the left and one pass to the right. Depending on how much product is in the pad I may do another pass.



My arm pressure varies from 10-15 pounds of pressure with VERY VERY SLOW arm movement. Once I have the machine level, I let the machine move itself with its oscillating motion/movement and I just guide it along. This is where the bulk of the correction takes place as someone with the same product who moves the machine quickly up and down, side to side will NOT get the same results.



You'll see the product begin to dry fairly quickly. It sort of becomes a clearish colour if that makes sense. But after 3-4 passes which takes roughly 2-3 minutes a section if not more, that section will be done.



I say do panel by panel so that you don't need QD to take off M83. If done right, in the right temperature you won't need the aid of QD. If you're using Halogen Lights like I do in my garage (as you can see in the pics on the Acccord) turn them away from the section you are working on while you're working on it because the heat will work against you and help speed up the drying which will only make it more difficult for you to take off M83. Trust me, I learnt that from personal experience and my helper (Aaron :D) on the Accord saw it for myself as well.



Once you've done one panel, say the hood, wipe it off in two-three steps. Go over it in slow steady circular motions to break the surface/top layer of M83. Then go back with another MF and wipe off the excess, and make sure you are doing this slowly and constantly turning the towel to expose a fresh new surface. Once that is completed give it a final wipe with another MF and then evaluate your finish.



Here you might have to give it a pass of M80 and the process is the same, just that M80 has more playing time. By that I mean you have more time to wait before it completely dries up on you.



Remember with paint cleaners/polishes you don't have to wait till they dry. They are a apply and wipe off type of product.



But working in such a small area at a time you are ensuring that you are concentrating at taking the defects out of the paint one step at a time. By going to big, won't allow you enough time, or passes to give you the best possible results.



I hope this helps.



Any other questions please feel free to ask.



ALl the best.
 
TrufflePig said:
Yes I do have a rotary but I didn't use it.



Two reasons. I had a friend come up so I can show him how to properly use a PC and second the customer did not want a rotary to be used. So with the PC those were the best results and I'd say they're pretty good. But either way I wanted to do least aggressive first and the results with the PC were awesome.



At the same time had I been able to use the rotary I would have went W- 7006 and M84 most likely or M86.



Thanks to everyone for the compliments/comments. Very much appreciated.



My favourite part/recovery were the wheels and engine. What a huge difference.



3 years and they'd never been cleaned once. He was going on the hopes that since he put on ceramic brakes that they wouldn't produce that much brake dust. He learnt his lesson now.



Thanks everyone!!!



:D :D :D
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I am pretty sure the car wouldn't need 84. I think that #80 on a polishing wool pad at 1500 would do the trick.
 
TrufflePig, I REALLY appreciate the writeup. I was originally doing more like 24"x24" and this could be partially why I had trouble keeping it wet enough to work properly. It started drying in a minute or so, and it got me really frustrated. Next time I try 83 again, I'll follow your steps and go slow. Thanks again, you've been a great help :)
 
mikebai1990 said:
TrufflePig, I REALLY appreciate the writeup. I was originally doing more like 24"x24" and this could be partially why I had trouble keeping it wet enough to work properly. It started drying in a minute or so, and it got me really frustrated. Next time I try 83 again, I'll follow your steps and go slow. Thanks again, you've been a great help :)
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Anytime, I'm glad I can be of assistance to you.



Yes, that is perhaps to big an area for paint correction. If you were just applying wax, well i'd say go nuts, but then again you're just trying to stretch the wax to far.



Smaller area gives you a more concentrated work area and therefore better paint correction.



All the best and please post some pics.
 
Will do :) I'm going over to my cousin's sometime in August. They have a Nissan Quest and Sentra. Unfortunately it's silver and white, so it won't be as "rewarding" as doing a dark color. However, their vehicles are VERY dirty, the interior is absolutely junked, and they don't really take care of it in terms of exterior and interior maintenance (hint: They have 3 children :)) I'll definitely post some pictures of befores and afters!



I actually do have a few more questions about the M83.



1. Do you put another circle on polish on your pad for every 12"x12" section? I'm trying to figure out how much polish should be used for each section for optimal correction.



2. Did you have any dusting with the 83? I found, as others, that the dusting is quite bad. Maybe it's because I'm not using enough polish and working too large an area?



Thanks again!
 
mikebai1990 said:
Will do :) I'm going over to my cousin's sometime in August. They have a Nissan Quest and Sentra. Unfortunately it's silver and white, so it won't be as "rewarding" as doing a dark color. However, their vehicles are VERY dirty, the interior is absolutely junked, and they don't really take care of it in terms of exterior and interior maintenance (hint: They have 3 children :)) I'll definitely post some pictures of befores and afters!
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AWESOME!!! I look forward to reading it!!!



For those colour cars its best to see defects under street lights at night. Or park in your garage at night under halogen lights and you'll see everything.



What do you plan on using to clean the interior. I use the Little Green Bissell with Pro Heat. Works like a champ.



mikebai1990 said:
I actually do have a few more questions about the M83.



1. Do you put another circle on polish on your pad for every 12"x12" section? I'm trying to figure out how much polish should be used for each section for optimal correction.
Click to expand...



Every section I put some more polish on BUT every three to four sections I clean my pad. Remember that a little product goes a long way once the pad is saturated so a fresh pad is always going to be your best bet, but not all of us have the luxury of owning 2-3 pads per product. So your best bet is to judge for yourself every few sections.



To do so, KISS the surface by, with the machine off, gently tap and push the pad on the paint and see if it leaves a circle dab of product on the finish. Do that in your new section and if it leaves a circle than you should have enough product for that section. But if the circle is choppy or half missing, you're going to need more product.



Every few sections I clean the pad by taking a Meguiars Terry Towel and putting it in my hand. With the other hand I take my PC and put into my hand with the Terry Towel. I then turn on the machine and press my hand with the Terry towel into the PC and Pad to remove any excess product.



The cleaner the pad, the better the work and better correction you'll achieve.



mikebai1990 said:
2. Did you have any dusting with the 83? I found, as others, that the dusting is quite bad. Maybe it's because I'm not using enough polish and working too large an area?



Thanks again!
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I would love to say I've had a dusting problem, but nothing major. Not yet anyways. Working to large an area won't allow you to concentrate enough on the paint defects.



Not using enough polish won't allow you to correct the surface as you'll just be running the risk of dry buffing.



Dusting, I think, has more to do with buffing for to long and to a dry buff.



Remember M83 is a wipe on, wipe off type of product.



Hope that helps.



All the best,



Calogero
 
Again, thanks for the help. Unfortunately I don't have any carpet extractors or that fancy stuff. I have a big Ridgid wet vac and some Woolite :) What I plan on doing is probably first thoroughly doing a dry vacuum, then scrub interior carpets+vinyl parts with Woolite mix, and suck them out with the wet vac. Then I'll probably use some 303 Aerospace Protectant to protect the vinyl. Otherwise, nothing too special :) The stains and the dirt, it'll be quite something to clean, I'm sure! I really think that your tips will help me achieve a whole new level of correction with my M80 and M83 :)
 
mikebai1990 said:
Again, thanks for the help. Unfortunately I don't have any carpet extractors or that fancy stuff. I have a big Ridgid wet vac and some Woolite :) What I plan on doing is probably first thoroughly doing a dry vacuum, then scrub interior carpets+vinyl parts with Woolite mix, and suck them out with the wet vac. Then I'll probably use some 303 Aerospace Protectant to protect the vinyl. Otherwise, nothing too special :) The stains and the dirt, it'll be quite something to clean, I'm sure! I really think that your tips will help me achieve a whole new level of correction with my M80 and M83 :)
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Your very welcome.



Anytime.



Any other questions just ask and I'll be happy to try and help you out as much as I can!!!



:D :D :D
 
mikebai1990 said:
Again, thanks for the help. Unfortunately I don't have any carpet extractors or that fancy stuff. I have a big Ridgid wet vac and some Woolite :) What I plan on doing is probably first thoroughly doing a dry vacuum, then scrub interior carpets+vinyl parts with Woolite mix, and suck them out with the wet vac. Then I'll probably use some 303 Aerospace Protectant to protect the vinyl. Otherwise, nothing too special :) The stains and the dirt, it'll be quite something to clean, I'm sure! I really think that your tips will help me achieve a whole new level of correction with my M80 and M83 :)
Click to expand...



Forgot to talk about interior.



What I usually do for bad stains is pre-soak the area with either one of three things that I reg. use.



1. Heavy Duty Carpet CLeaner by Meguiars

2. Meguiars Quik Out

3. Meguiars APC 4:1



Sometimes I use a combo. I pre-soak the area (it'll most likely work with your products as well) and then allow it to sit and penetrate for a bit say 45 seconds or a couple minutes. Then I use an interior brush and scrub them for a bit and then follow that up with my Bissell machine.



ANd voila. Back to normal!!! :D
 
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