2000 Jeep with some Oxidation and no Protection

[imported_erazz]

Just picked up a Red 2000 Jeep with some mild oxidation. We are second owner, and know that the previous owner never waxed it. It was daily commuter but kept in garage at night.



See my plan below and let me know of something I am missing something, or if there is a product suggestion. Everything done by hand BTW.

1. Wash
   
2. Clay (Mothers)
   
3. Medallion Paint Cleaner
   
4. Wax (16,26, or NXT?)
   

How will items 2 and 3 handle the oxidation, or should I try to post a few pics up to better answer that question?



I am not too concerned with other paint defects. I just want to get somewhat of a clean surface, then start applying some protection (in the form of wax).



TIA, Erick

 

[nosbusa1700]

A clay bar is not strong enough to remove oxidation. imo



You might need to to do some polishing with a PC, DA, or Rotary to remove the oxidation.



Or if you're unsure about it, take it to a detailer, or if you have a friend that details see what he thinks.



Here's a read on oxidation.



http://www.autopia.org/forum/autoge...en-single-stage-paints-clear-coat-paints.html

 

[Furd]

You might try some Turtle Wax Liquid Clay Bar to remove the oxidation.



It doesn't replace "real" clay, but I have read good things about it in terms of paint cleaning/removing oxidation. You'd follow it up with the clay bar.

 

[imported_erazz]

Here's a read on oxidation.



http://www.autopia.org/forum/autoge...en-single-stage-paints-clear-coat-paints.html

Excellent link nosbusa1700, thank you for bringing it to my attention. I will have to re-think my use of the word "oxidation".

 

[nygoat03]

I have a 1998 jeep cherokee sport-white-i clayed, polished and waxed it and the paint looks brand new. I would take Meguiars over turtle wax clay bar-I have Clay Magic and Meguiars and its almost a tie as far as what works better. Defintely need to at least use a porter cable to clean the paint up correctly.

 

[LICamaro85]

When the paint has Oxidation on it I have noticed that the only "real" way to fully remove it is by using a machine. Your hand just can not produce the same amount of heat and rotations as a machine. Since it looks like you are going for OTC stuff I would lean towards Megs Ultimate Compound for step 3. It will not cause any marring and will take off all the oxidation. That being said you can still make the car look 100 times better doing it by hand but you will be swore. I would use the UC with hand or machine.



Remember when you clay keep needing the clay to reveal a fresh portion of it since it will become dirty fast on your oxidized paint.



Good luck and happy detailing



- LI 85

 

[imported_erazz]

test reply. My replies are going to moderator?

 

[imported_erazz]

Here's a read on oxidation.



http://www.autopia.org/forum/autoge...en-single-stage-paints-clear-coat-paints.html

This is a good link, thank you for bringing to my attention.



You and everyone is recommending going the machine route....just the excuse I was looking for to buy one me thinks....:waxing:



BTW, this is my second attempt at replying so apologies this this gets duped, and thank you all respondents.

 

[imported_erazz]

Gentlemen, I have 2 replies sitting moderation queue for some reason, but I wanted to let you know I appreciate the input. Thanks