1Z Ultra Polish vs. DACP

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imported_nadir

New member
I've got alot of swirls on my black car. I want to order everything from detailersparadise and Nick seems to carry the 1Z line. I am interested in getting his polish bundle. Would the Ultra Polish give me the same results as DACP would?



thanks!
 
1Z UP is more aggressive than DACP which is closer to 1Z PP. Each works very well, depending on how you're using them (hand, PC or rotary and pads combo).
 
Yup, 1ZPP and DACP are comparable. I use both all the time. They're my two most versatile polishes. I like 1ZPP a little better because it stays wet longer which allows me to work the paint more if that's what I want to do. But both are terrific polishes.
 
Also, *I* can never get a "ready-to-wax" finish with 1Z UP, I ALWAYS have to follow up with something milder (and I'm NOT talking about MICRO-marring either).



BTW, Mike at EinsZett has said that when we use UP for major swirl-work on fairly new b/c paint, we're sorta using it for something it was NOT designed for.
 
alright cool! thanks for the quick explanation.





So alot of people recommend using the yellow cutting pad for DACP... should I use yellow for 1ZPP?
 
nadir- Yeah, use PP with either a cutting or polishing pad depending on what you're dealing with.



Oh, and FWIW, *I* find the PP sorta mild. It's not really aggressive enough to correct significant marring on Audi or Mazda clear, for instance.
 
Accumulator,



I know you use 3M Perfect III Rubbing Compound, how does it compare to 1Z Ultra Polish and DACP? I'm thinking it's more abrasive than DACP but less than Ultra Polish. Is this right?
 
Steve,



Good question. I think I may need to use something more aggressive than 1Z PP and would like to know what that would be (would use the product by hand). Would the order of aggressiveness be 1Z PP, DACP, 3M Rubbing Compound, and 1Z UP? Accumulator...?



Thanks,

Joey



P.S. I understand that comparing products' aggressiveness depends on a variety of factors; just looking for personal experience.
 
stevet & hayless- I haven't used DACP enough to comment on it, but I *hear* it's similar to the PP, though I'd suspect that the PP breaks down finer. Some people have to follow DACP with something milder but I just can't IMAGINE that ever being necessary with PP. I get the feeling that *I* consider PP a bit milder than some other Autopians think it is.



Both the 3M RCs I use (pns 39002 and 05933) are, IMO, MUCH MILDER than the Ultra. The PI-III (05399) especially, is probably a LOT milder than most people would suspect. It's about the same as DACP/PP and will OFTEN leave a ready-to-wax finish.



So the 39002, 05933, DACP, and PP are all probably more similar than different, aggressiveness-wise. Heh heh, someday I'll have to use DACP just so I can accurately compare it to what I DO use.



MOST to LEAST aggressive, I'd put it something like:



1Z Ultra

3M PI-II FCRC (39002)

3M PI-III RC (05933)

DACP

1Z PP

3M PI-III MG

1Z MP
 
04_BLK_MACH1 said:
they need better containers..the shampoo looks great..those ugly tin containers made me stray away
Click to expand...



Heh heh, I *LIKE* the industrial-look tin cans! I always spill a bit, but I think they look old-school cool. When I started detailing, LOTS of stuff came in cans, it sorta takes me back...
 
Ididn't know you guys would think the IZ Ultra Polish would be so aggressive.



when would you use the IZ UP? what kind of condition would the paint have to be in?
 
The caps suck. When you shake the can and flip open the cap it is full of product and just drips out everywhere. Love the whole line though.
 
nadir said:
..when would you use the IZ UP? what kind of condition would the paint have to be in?
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Depends on the paint. The clear on my Audis is VERY hard, so it always seems that most ANY significant marring calls for UP, unless I'm using the rotary. Even then, *I* used it (rotary, cutting pad, ~800-->1500 rpms) to remove two pretty mild looking scratches on the S8. The PP/cutting pad wasn't getting it, much to my surprise. Maybe they weren't such mild scratches after all, but they sure didn't seem too bad.



Plenty of people are getting great results using (just) PP with a PC, so I suspect that softer paints might not need UP too often. So I guess the short answer is to use UP when PP/cutting pad doesn't get the marring out.
 
Yeah, the tins are a kind of a PIA to use. They're great for protecting the product, but often dent when we ship them and it is difficult to control the pour. I can't do much about the denting, but all of our 1Z polishes ship with a handy little 2oz bottle.

BinaryWrite.asp
 
:up



i forgot to mention earlier... I'm gettin all my 1Z stuff from Nick who has REALLY taken the time to help me out. I think those 2oz. bottles are great! They also help gauge how much of the product you are using so wasting it shouldn't be a real issue. Thanks alot Nick, I really appreciate all the help!







hmm...

I'm hoping the UPP with a yellow cutting pad will help get rid of the spider webbing on the clearcoat as well as getting rid of / fill some of the billion rock chips on my front fender and hood.
 
nadir said:
hmm...

I'm hoping the UPP with a yellow cutting pad will help get rid of the spider webbing on the clearcoat as well as getting rid of / fill some of the billion rock chips on my front fender and hood.
Click to expand...



Don't plan on the UP filling in anything, as you'll have to follow it with another product (like PP) anyhow and that'll remove anything the UP leaves behind.



If the UP/cutting combo doesn't get the marring out, you'd better consider living with it or using a rotary. That's about as aggressive as *I* like to get with a PC on b/c paint, and I'm not exactly overly-cautious.
 
I followed DACP (yelow pad) up with the BF polish after. Just to gauge it, you probably will have to use a milder polish. This tme around I think I'm going to try Megs #9 after DACP. :)
 
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