1Z Metallic Polish is safe for paint work????

N

Nicky Pass

New member
I had my hood paint 2 and a half weeks ago.....( dealership mishap:mad: ) And I was buffing my car with my PC and 1Z....then I looked on the back of the bottle and it said "can be used on paint work." SOOOOO I buffed my hood last night too. Is this a really bad thing? I though 1Z was more like a glaze :nixweiss
 
The three 1z paint polishes are designed for paint. The Ultra should not be used on brand new paint especially like yours. It's too abrasive for it. I find the MP to be rather light and quite safe for fully cured paint finishes. The only way I could think of them as glazes is that they contain wax, which can easily be removed with an alcohol wipe down.
 
I found the MP to be very mild too. I used it on a '03 Sunfire (silver) and it didn't touch the swirls. 'Course, this lady isn't too cautious with the paint, so all she notices is the shine. I'd say that MP could be a good "maintenance" polish/wax.



I seem to recall Mike from 1Z saying that MP by itself should last as long as most waxes (but with Glanz on top it was supposed to be phenomenal!).

I never leave my car long enough to see, and the other cars I do, I don't have enough control over them to judge.:nixweiss
 
I was just over on the 1z site yesterday and thought I read something to that effect too..that the polishes alone can last similarly to paint topped with wax. I use 1z because it seems to be the only line of polishes that *easily*( user friendly for sure) tackles defects in my Audi paint *consistently* and the defects are always gone upon wiping away the waxes with the alcohol mix :xyxthumbs
 
I'm planning to use PP on my '04 325i to remove some swirls that came compliments of my dealer. I don't think MP will cut it. I also plan to use AIO and SG after polishing.



My question is, if I plan to use AIO, do I really need to follow the PP with MP or is it just as good to go from PP to AIO?



My guess is that the AIO will strip any fillers or wax left behind by MP thereby nullifying any of its effects.
 
If you're as obsessed as I am, use some 1000 watt halogens to check your work after the PP. I would highly suggest an alcohol wipe down as well. If you still see marring go with the MP, alcohol wipe, inspect if ok, then AIO and SG. FWIW, that's how I do it.
 
MP should be fine on your hood. It is the gentlest of the three 1Z polishes. All they were trying to say is that its a very light polish. I have also heard that topping MP with the Glanz wax produces an awesome finish, but I haven't seen it in person. The MP should help to produce a nice, smooth foundation to wax on.



As information, 1Z makes several products that are more agressive/abrasive. Paint Polish & Ultra Paint Polish (PP & UP or UPP) are stronger; the general rule is to use the lightest polish first and move up in strength if it does not remove the scratch, swirl, etc.



What kind of wax are you planning to top the MP with?
 
One thought... the paint was only 2 1/2 weeks old on the hood. Normally you're supposed to wait at least 30 days (varies from body shop to body shop and paint manufacturer to paint manufacturer) before waxing new, non-factory paint.



Therefore, is the MP a bad polish to use in this case since it contains wax and will leave a protective layer behind that could interfere with the paint's ability to cure?



I don't know, but it seems like it makes sense to me.



John
 
How about a very light pure polish like Menzera FP? Absolutely no wax or fillers. For me personally, if the paint curing is an issue, I would just wait until it's totally done before polishing
 
jaobrien6 said:
One thought... the paint was only 2 1/2 weeks old on the hood. Normally you're supposed to wait at least 30 days (varies from body shop to body shop and paint manufacturer to paint manufacturer) before waxing new, non-factory paint.



Therefore, is the MP a bad polish to use in this case since it contains wax and will leave a protective layer behind that could interfere with the paint's ability to cure?



I don't know, but it seems like it makes sense to me.



John
Click to expand...



John, that is a great point...so obvious that I overlooked it! A polish without wax would have been better.
 
Bill D said:
How about a very light pure polish like Menzera FP? Absolutely no wax or fillers. For me personally, if the paint curing is an issue, I would just wait until it's totally done before polishing
Click to expand...



I was doing the tops of the fenders....and I started doing one section of the hood...I didn't even think about it. The area of the hood that I did looked really good, and felt like the rest of the car.....so I just did the whole thing:o I looked at it under some haologen and it looked great...I just won't do it agian for another 3 weeks or so.
 
Nicky Pass said:
So I shouldn't have used it on the hood?
Click to expand...



Since the MP contains wax, *I* wouldn't use it on fresh paint. There are only a few fresh-paint-safe products out there (a quick search will bring up the list), and that's not one of them.



There's nothing wrong with *polishing* fresh paint (the paint shop might've even done it before delivery), but waxing/sealing it interferes with the out-gassing required for complete curing.
 
i just used the 1z polishes on my moms car, and to tell u the truth, mp wont touch scratches, swirls, etc... more like just a gloss enhancing polish, and if youre LUCKY the pp will take out the swirls, but ive found that it may only cut them down somewhat, not take them out all the way.. but im sure if u do multiple passes it would work, but i didnt feel like taking the time, so i went to menzerna ip, then to 1z pp which took out the swirls and had the gloss to its full potential
 
glawler said:
I thought outgassing had been renedered a non issue with the new paints used these days due to environmental concerns.
Click to expand...



Thats what I thought.....Its been 2 days now....and the hood hasn't desinigrated yet:bounce
 
Yeah, that's why my micromarring process is so invloved. I've tried Menzerna FP alone with a polishing pad and that doesn't cut it so I step up to MP almost all of the time. For stuff visible only under the halogens I really hesitate to use the PP, following that ol' least aggressive product first philosophy. Takes some more time but often the MP does get it out. Anything that's visible under "normal" bright light, forget about it, going to need at least PP, but I would still try multiple passes of it first.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top