1st time using PC on black truck - HAZING

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EricDawg

EricDawg
So I practiced all last weekend on my old 89 blue Ranger, and concluded the PC was pretty harmless. I practiced with Menzerna Intesive Polish, Final Polish II, and 3M Perfect-It II SMR.



So I try the FPII first with a white pad, and it did remove the water spots I was having trouble with - but I had to use speed 5.



It didn't do anything for the swirlies, so I went with a yellow pad and the 3m at 4-5. I used a lot of polish, maybe too much, and went pretty slow. The result was a lot of haze. It was pretty depressing. The section is noticeably dull/white.



Now I thought this was normal from reading up. But following up with Final Polish II didn't totally get rid of the haze. I did 3 passes at speed 5, white pad. It did remove a lot of the swirlies, but not all of the scratches.



Is haze just the compound left on or is it a reaction of the polish? Or is it no more clear coat??? :( Kind of scary.





Is a polish like FPII the only way to get rid of the haze? Seems like another pass with something more aggressive would remove it?



As an aside, I really like the Intensive Polish on my Ranger last weekend. Isn't that more aggressive than 3m perfect-it?



Any ideas on how to minimize/remove hazing appreciated. Anyone have the haze experience with the 3M??



:nixweiss
 
EricDawg said:
So I practiced all last weekend on my old 89 blue Ranger, and concluded the PC was pretty harmless. I practiced with Menzerna Intesive Polish, Final Polish II, and 3M Perfect-It II SMR.



So I try the FPII first with a white pad, and it did remove the water spots I was having trouble with - but I had to use speed 5.

Nothing wrong with using 5.



It didn't do anything for the swirlies, so I went with a yellow pad and the 3m at 4-5. I used a lot of polish, maybe too much, and went pretty slow. The result was a lot of haze. It was pretty depressing. The section is noticeably dull/white.

The 3M SMR is a very light polish. Thats not what left the hazing, that was the improper pad selection, yellow. Yellow is a light cutting (By most manufacturers at least). Thats like using canola oil to lube a piston. If you have Orange, that would be a better choice. Aslo, find a median with qty. Using too much doesnt allow proper breakdonw, and finishing. Ultimately, you'll be dissapointed with pad/product/job.



Now I thought this was normal from reading up. But following up with Final Polish II didn't totally get rid of the haze. I did 3 passes at speed 5, white pad. It did remove a lot of the swirlies, but not all of the scratches. Go back with White or Orange and FPII, up to 6, and slow down you lateral/longitudal movements, overlap 2/3's.



Is haze just the compound left on or is it a reaction of the polish? Or is it no more clear coat??? :( Kind of scary. Youve basically marred the surface, (evened it out) all you have to do is remove the marring. You'll be ok.



Is a polish like FPII the only way to get rid of the haze? Seems like another pass with something more aggressive would remove it? Should do it! Course it depends on how long that yellow was on the surface.



As an aside, I really like the Intensive Polish on my Ranger last weekend. Isn't that more aggressive than 3m perfect-it? The IP breaks down better, and yes, its more aggressive. The 3M like I said above is very mild.



Any ideas on how to minimize/remove hazing appreciated. Anyone have the haze experience with the 3M??



:nixweiss
Click to expand...



See all of the above in bold.......
 
Thanks. I''ll try an orange pad. Is that more or less cutting than yellow? Same but with less hazing?



Also, so what do you do if you know you've used too much product? The hazing was on the first section I did, so I loaded up the pad. Once it was on I realized it was a little much, so I kept working it in for 3-4 minutes. I looked like it broke down, but I probably bailed a little soon. Is your only recourse to just keep working it in? Should you lower the speed if you've been buffing with a yellow/orange pad for over 4 minutes?





I chose yellow based on the Roadfly website:



YELLOW PAD + SMR

Very safe way to remove swirls from vehicles. Yellow pad makes the SMR just a little more effective, and results are usually quite spectacular. This is a good starting point for people who have a swirled vehicle. Only go more aggressive if necessary (ie: DACP/FI-II or wool). Speed range: 4.0 - 5.5, moderate to heavy pressure, taking your time to really work it in. Follow-up with a glaze or polish.
 
The orange pad is probably a bit lighter than the yellow one. To get all the marring gone, you may have to try FPII on a pad even lighter than the polishing pad- maybe a finishing pad (grey or blue). I'm assuming you're using LC-type pads- sometimes different colors on different brands mean different things.
 
for Lake Country: Yellow is the heavy cutting, Orange is the mild Cutting. While white is for polishing, and black for finsihing.



(at least mine are ;) )
 
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