1972 Buik Skylark

Wow very impressive results with a great write up as well. I noticed you followed up your rotary work with PC, how come? Now that I use a rotary, I find that final finishing with it is superior to the PC.
 
I consider the PC a finishing tool for the Rotary. I don't want to leave any chance of holograms being left behind during the rotary process. I see holograms all the time from detailers who don't follow with the PC. In fact, in most cases, I can "finish" off a poor detail with just a PC that shouldn't have been done in the first place.



I know some people say they can finish with the rotary and they are done, but I personally have never seen it, atleast not at the level that I inspect a finish before I truly call it "done".



DSVWGLI said:
Wow very impressive results with a great write up as well. I noticed you followed up your rotary work with PC, how come? Now that I use a rotary, I find that final finishing with it is superior to the PC.
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I actually only recently got the Dirt Guard. This is probably the 5th car I've used the system with. You make a good point considering the rinse bucket is going to be more dirty than the soap bucket, but I spend so much time squeezing, rinsing, and cleaning the mitt dunking and rinsing and dunking before putting it back in the soap bucket, I suppose I'm not really using the system to it's designed capacity.



3Dog said:
Fantastic Job!!!!

I do the opposite of you in the buckets...Dirt guard in the rinse and grit guard in the wash. I find the dirtguard "scrubs" the mitt better.
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Good Lord!! Keep Mother's away from that car.



Fantastic effort on your part. Exceptoinal foto documentation, too !!





Can you say how much you typically charge somebody for a job at this level? What was the owner's repsonse upon his return?



Thanks.
 
Thanks! For most of my details, I charge between $400 to $600. This was a $500 job, but it was a barter--he worked on my car, and I worked on his. :2thumbs:



Fortunately, the owner was there most of the time--I mean he went into the house and came out for a peek once in awhile--working on my car only took half the time it took me to work on his car. He's a really good friend of mine and I always enjoying visiting him--though the drive from Mar Vista to Oxnard is a bit of a killer--fortunately, this job was in Thousand Oaks (40-45 min drive with no traffic)--so the drive wasn't as bad.



As for his response--he was Extremely pleased. He actually hired me to prep it for sale, but then as what usually happens, after seeing it, he didn't want to part with it anymore. He did refer me to another friend with an black '85 Porsche 911 so we'll see what happens with that.



Richard



tom p. said:
Good Lord!! Keep Mother's away from that car.



Fantastic effort on your part. Exceptoinal foto documentation, too !!





Can you say how much you typically charge somebody for a job at this level? What was the owner's repsonse upon his return?



Thanks.
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Good, I didn't want to hear you were charging $200 or $250 for so much time invested. I think a lot of the pros are under-pricing their work.



Thanks for filling in the blanks. We look forward to seeing more when you have time!
 
Awesome work! Great gloss and depth in the afters.



I'm in the "finish with rotary when possible" camp too though, as I find that the PC can tend to leave (slight) micromarring. Most would probably never notice this, but I believe that the rotary leaves a slightly better finish. I can see your point of avoiding any chance of holograms though.
 
To put it simply, if I get micromarring when I'm working, then I'm not done working. :D



It's a preference thing---whatever works for you to achieve the level of finish you desire is what matters most. :D





Zet said:
Awesome work! Great gloss and depth in the afters.



I'm in the "finish with rotary when possible" camp too though, as I find that the PC can tend to leave (slight) micromarring. Most would probably never notice this, but I believe that the rotary leaves a slightly better finish. I can see your point of avoiding any chance of holograms though.
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Very wet and deep finish. Quick question: When you say you used Epic as an LSP, do you mean Prima Epic? If so, can you share your thoughts on it?
 
That's correct. I've switched out from Meguiar's M21 to Prima Car Care's Epic wax over the past 3 months. I love it. It has all the same properties I loved about M21 without the separation issues (dark/light streaks), and I think the final result looks even better.



I've tried the other Prima products like Cut, Swirl, Finish, Amigo and I still prefer the Meguiar's M80 series polishes--atleast when using the Meguiar's pads. I'll be getting a set of Lake Country pads shortly and will re-evaluate their products with this system at that time.



I love their qd--SLICK. I buy that by the gallon---really makes my black paint look deep and glossy. Hydro is pretty darn cool too when used on a wet car. But of course those are maintenance products I use on my car, and that's why I like it. Saves me time, makes my paint look great, not much more I can ask for.



Richard

Bigpoppa3346 said:
Very wet and deep finish. Quick question: When you say you used Epic as an LSP, do you mean Prima Epic? If so, can you share your thoughts on it?
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Unfortunately not. I finished the car around midnight, and the following days had 100mph windstorms, so the owner couldn't take pix. Maybe he will still send them to me, but at this time, that's all I've got.



Richard



JB_TSX said:
Amazing work... Do you have some outdoor "afters" pics of the car??
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OctaneGuy said:
As for his response--he was Extremely pleased. He actually hired me to prep it for sale, but then as what usually happens, after seeing it, he didn't want to part with it anymore.
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That's the ultimate compliment.......



Excellent work.....:xyxthumbs
 
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