That's my experience with DWG too, Rob.
That is some *outstanding* first rotary work, Rob. And on paint that was such a mess! Then throw in the M105 on top.... wow, what a way to break in the new Makita, huh??
One technique that seems to work pretty well with M105:
Apply about a three inch strip to the paint
cover the strip with the PFW. Move it in a *little* circle before turning on the buffer. Just enough of a circle to coat the pad.
Turn on the buffer, go straight to 1.5k RPM, and immediately spread *and work* the compound *at the same time*. DO NOT PRE SPREAD THE 105 AROUND BEFORE YOU WORK IT. It'll already have flashed over before you even get a chance to work it. You *must* spread it as you work it. Keep the buffer head moving slowly, and always into a fresh area. *Don't go back and rework the same spot more than one very brief additional pass*. If you're going to do a second pass, do it *immediately* after the first. Don't go into a new area yet, just go back on the area you just did, make a second pass, then move on to fresh paint. Slowly start counting to ten as soon as you turn on the buffer. When you hit ten, *regardless of where you are at*, STOP. You are *done*. Grab some QD, spritz in on the work area and use an MF to remove the 105.
I'll see if I can make this a bit more clear.... let's say that the area to be polished consists of three "rows". Apply the strip of polish to the start of row one. Put the PFW over the top of it, and gently move it in a small circle to spread the polish around the pad. Spin up the rotary, and start counting to ten. Move the buffer head through row one. If row one needs another pass, *do it now* before moving on to row two. After second pass of row one, start moving through row two. Once you have come to the end of row two, do a second pass through row two, if it needs it, now. Then start on row three. By now, you'll be getting darn close to your ten second limit. No matter where you are when you hit ten, stop. You want to finish *before* it starts to flash over. Ten seconds is a good place to stop. Remember, you don't need to break this stuff down, so STOP!
To get an absolute time, do a test area, and work it til it flashes over. Count the whole time. Remember the number you got to when it flashed, then subtract a few seconds. That's your working time for the polish for the day. Never exceed that number.
Even if the polish hasn't flashed over, you still should use a QD to remove the residue. The abrasives in 105 don't break down, so it is still highly abrasive when you remove it. The additional lube in the QD will keep you from marring the paint when you remove the residue.
The best success I've had with 105 so far has been to only do one pass through each row, with a ten second work time. Then, after removing the residue, do a visual inspection. If an additional pass is needed, start a new application, and again do one pass through the work area. Second applications/passes are seldom needed. In that one pass (ten seconds worth), you will have removed as much clear as a full minute's worth of buffing with M95. It's also much better to take your time and evaluate whether a second pass is needed when you're not on a ten second decision clock. Don't get in the habbit of just doing a second pass without determining if it needs it first. Don't let the one pass, short work time, and great finish fool you; you just removed a boat load of clear in that one pass.
OK, one last thing to clarify... as you do each row, keep moving the buffer head the same direction: toward the end of the row. If you're going to move left to right through your row, keep the buffer head moving to the right *all the time*. *Don't* go back to the left unless you have determined that you *need* a second pass. If you do need a second pass, then once you have reached the end of the row, move the buffer head back toward the start of the row, again without ever changing direction. Keep it moving to the left. DON'T EVER MOVE YOUR BUFFER HEAD IN ANY DIRECTION EXCEPT TOWARD THE END OF YOUR ROW. Anytime you go back over paint you just buffed, you just doubled the amount of clear removed. You'll end up with not level clear if you inconsistently move the pad back and forth. Start at the beginning of row one, then without ever changing direction, go to the end of row one.
Well, by now I either helped, or totally confused you. Hope I helped.
