Uber Auto Conditioning
New member

This car comes from a great customer of mine that I get a lot of repeat business from but I hadn't seen this particular vehicle before. Overall the car was in good shape and for being an older classic the paint and body work was actually holding up very well. With restored cars you never know what you are going to get but this one was a pleasant surprise and a joy to work on. Let's get started with some "before" pics...
A few water spot issues on the roof and doors etc




Lightly soiled interior, nothing atypical.


Overall, not in bad shape at all

I started as I usually do, cleaning wheels. P21S was used and was allowed to dwell for 5-10 minutes. Optimum Power Clean took car of the tires and got the white walls looking right.


The rest of the washing process was carried out using a foam bath with CGCW/OPC and the 2 bucket method. Car was dried with Master Blaster and waffel weave towels.
Interior was in decent shape too but slight improvements were made to "freshen" the look. Einsett 1 Z cockpit cleaner was used in conjunction with various brushes and compressed air. All carpet was vacuumed and lightly shampooed. A touch of 303 Aerospace protectant was used on trim and upholstery to give it a nice look with a bit of UV protection.
Left side dirty, right side looking right!



Found some dust


All better




Side Note: When dealing vintage/classic/restored cars the chances of the interior being repaired, re dyed, and all around "not factory" are increased exponentially by the age of the car. It is always good practice to do test spots on any car you work on but it is ESPECIALLY important on older vehicles like this.
I knew there was upholstery work done on the front seats of this car and I ended up using a more diluted and lighter cleaning approach than I normally do because I didn't like how the cleaner was reacting with the material. Taking your time and using caution can save a car from extensive damage and costly repairs.
Moving on to the exterior, the vehicle was prepped with Pinnacle Ultra Poly clay and ONR as a lubricant. Not too much contamination as the car is garaged and not driven all that much.

3M masking tape was then used to mask any trim in an effort to protect it from possible damage by the polishing steps to follow. Also the tape helps with excessive compound in the cracks and crevices that can take a long time to remove. I think it is always easier to spend 10 minutes masking rather than cleaning compound out with q tips and brushes later.

This car was just scheduled for a basic one step to brighten the finish a little bit. There was some deeper damage but on such a light colored car it was hard to see and probably not worth the extra expense to correct everything. There was what looked to be a garage door scuff on the roof, like it got closed on the car or something.

I did use some 105 on that area and got it mostly removed. Other than that, polishing was performed with a FLEX 3401VRG and a 5.5 Lake Country flat white pad using Meguiars 205.

After a quick Isopropyl Alcohol wipe down to remove polishing oils, lubricants, and carriers, the finish was then ready for a LSP or last step product. For this car I used Chemical Guys Blacklight.


After shots










Thanks for looking,
Mark Seidenstricker
Uber Auto Conditioning
Minneapolis, MN
763-772-6283
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