$$$$$$

I used it with my G110. Got great results with it. I personally find a lot of use for both machines (well in my case all 4 of them) which is why I find this thread funny. a D/A is NOT faster or better than a rotary and visa versa. anyone that says so it either closed minded or unskilled at whichever one they are downing. I can correct just as fast with either. I find it much easier to use a rotary for correction work over the D/A but that's just because I've been using a rotary for over 15 years now and a D/A for just over a year. I love both tools. and I really think they have their solid uses. Saying a D/A is better than a rotary is dumb. but saying a rotary will beat out a D/A all the time is just as dumb to say as well. Both are highly effective tools. if you perfere one over the other so be it. It's your business run it the way you want. But don't jump other people for running their business differently. We all work in our own comfort zones and we all love what we do.
 
I use a norton d/a at the house here. Yes I have used m105/205 combos tons of times. I also like a few others they make which are often overlooked like m95, and cut and solo cream. I'm just shocked by how many use them. I'm a amazed that not many people here use other products. Like malco, Automagic, Ardex. or if they are there not admitting to it. lol I just think there are so many other gret products out there.
 
gmblack3a said:
With a rotary you are going to need 2 steps before you can get to a final polish, using the KBM with an orange or surbuf pad, you can follow with your final polish.
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I have gone from 105 via Makita with a LC White Leveling Pad to Menzerna 106FA on a LC White Polishing pad with no holograms, hazing, trails, anything left. Granted, this was on SUPER hard Audi clear. On "MOST" cars I can do 105/purple wool/orange, then straight to 106FA with absolutely no problem at all. Even after several IPA wipe downs and in 90 degree weather so the sun has time to dry any oils that would remain. I still use my PC if applying a certain sealant, or sometimes on a simple 1 step, but on most of my 1 steps, I use Menzerna 203/LC White Pad and have no problem finishing down great, and going straight to sealant.
 
Jakerooni said:
a D/A is NOT faster or better than a rotary and visa versa. anyone that says so it either closed minded or unskilled at whichever one they are downing.
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You're the new king of ignorant blanket statements. :goodjob
 
bufferbarry said:
II'm a amazed that not many people here use other products. Like malco, Automagic, Ardex. or if they are there not admitting to it. lol I just think there are so many other gret products out there.
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I actually love Auto Magic and still have a bunch of Ardex that I'm trying to kill right now.
 
gmblack3a said:
Sorry but your post reeks of ignorance. :sadwavey:
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I'm not trying to sound ignorant, but I'm sure you will agree with me that a Rotary polisher will correct and finish best, then a D.A. like a Cyclo or Flex, then a D.A. like a PC is on a even lower level. I "own" a PC and don't use it. I find it vibrates your hands off while using it, and also will only polish out swirls and minor scratches. I guess in theory you could get wetsanding scratches out with a PC, but it would take a LONG time. TOO long if you ask me. Very often when we detail a car we wetsand scratches all around the vehicle with 2000 grit.





John
 
I played around with the KB method today on a jet black BMW 550 that had rotary swirls. Using an orange soft edge cutting pad, I primed it well with #105 and got busy with my G110. Seemed to do a really good job cutting out the swirls, a little better in fact, than my rotary with #205 and a yellow Meguiars polishing pad-and my Dewalt and #105 with a yellow Meguiars polishing pad was holograming almost as bad as the dealership hack did.



The only problem was the hazing from #105/orange via G110 which took my Dewalt and #205 to remove-and unlike on most paints, I couldn't get #205 to finish hologram free so I had to follow with Ultrafina-twice in a couple areas. The paint was really soft. :hairpull



I'll have to play around with the method a bit more on more typically hard clears to see how well it works and if it in fact does save time. So far the results are a bit mixed.
 
I have not had great luck with KBM on some of the softer paints (2007+ bmw black, subbies, etc), it's been pretty amazing on average->hard paints. I may be doing something wrong on the softer paints but I don't think so.
 
To each it's own. I'm not going to spend 10 hours with a PC in my hand with all those vibrations. I still use my PC on 90% of my details depending on the LSP.
 
Picus said:
I have not had great luck with KBM on some of the softer paints (2007+ bmw black, subbies, etc), it's been pretty amazing on average->hard paints. I may be doing something wrong on the softer paints but I don't think so.
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What are you using on those softer paints? That black 550 was a PITA and I've got a similarly hologrammed jet black 335 coming up. First time in a long time I couldn't get #205 to finish hologram free.
 
JohnKleven said:
I'm not trying to sound ignorant, but I'm sure you will agree with me that a Rotary polisher will correct and finish best, then a D.A. like a Cyclo or Flex, then a D.A. like a PC is on a even lower level. I "own" a PC and don't use it. I find it vibrates your hands off while using it, and also will only polish out swirls and minor scratches. I guess in theory you could get wetsanding scratches out with a PC, but it would take a LONG time. TOO long if you ask me. Very often when we detail a car we wetsand scratches all around the vehicle with 2000 grit.





John
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I use to think the same way until I tried a pc and learned some amazing techniques on my own. I now understand why and how it can correct so good on some paints at most times. I actually love doing quickie correction jobs now and have found that they are my best money makers because of this machine.



Rickrack and I were anti-pc guys last year and could not understand all the hoopla over this. We thought a lot of people were drinking that moonshine.:laugh:



Fast forward 6 months ago to now and we are blown away at some of the jobs that we have done with the pc. Not only the amazing correction and perfection that was achieved, but mainly the short amount of time it actually took to achieve it in.



I am not saying it will work on everything, and there are times that a rotory is heavily needed, but there are a lot of jobs that we will only bust out the pc's.



Think about this.... Would you sand out a car to perfection with a grinder or a random orbital?



Also, this is coming from me, a guy that has mastered over 1000 cars in the past 21 years with only a rotory.
 
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