106ff/106fa Question

J

JustinL67

New member
After using 106ff or fa on a polishing pad, is the paint ready to be sealed or does another pass with a lighter polish need to be done?
 
I have seen a couple of posters use 3M ultrafina after the 106. One of these guys was doing a $3000+ detail. However, in my limited (2 cars) experience with the 106, it leaves the surface ready to be sealed. I don't see anything left in terms of swirls or scratches. I think this is why Menzerna recently changed the name of the 106 from 'Nano Polish' to 'Final Polish'.
 
Yes, you can seal the paint after ff or fa. I would do an IPA wipe down before sealing because those products are known to leave some filling abilities.
 
Would that be a bad thing though if you're paint isn't in the best shape? I was thinking this combo,



105 on cutting pad

106ff on polishing pad

Poorboys Black Hole

Sealant (haven't really decided which yet)
 
If you want to refine the finish even further after 106FA with a polishing pad, switch to a finishing pad with 106FA. This is usually only necessary for black or other dark colors and red. It also depends on how hard the paint is as well. On hard paint 106FA with a polishing pad is usually good enough. 106FA is my go to finishing polish via polishing pad or if needed a finishing pad. I have some FPII, finer cut with the same gloss rating but to me it just doesn't look as good as 106FA. As far as the combo you listed, what color is your paint? How hard is it? How old is the paint and how thick is it? These are things you need to know before deciding on a combo. Least abrasive method first and so on.
 
It's a black 94 mustang with swirls, rotary holograms, and some unrepairable scratches. It still looks great from a few feet away, but it would make an autopian cry, lol.
 
JustinL67 said:
It's a black 94 mustang with swirls, rotary holograms, and some unrepairable scratches. It still looks great from a few feet away, but it would make an autopian cry, lol.
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What polishing machine are you using?
 
PC. I know it won't be able to get everything out, I'm not concerned about those so much as doing as much good as I can.
 
If you use a finishing (black, blue, red, gold) pad with PO106Fx, you probably need nothing more. That might be different with dark colors and very soft clear.
 
I did a 98 Firebird, and the it worked really well
biggrin.gif
 
JustinL67 said:
PC. I know it won't be able to get everything out, I'm not concerned about those so much as doing as much good as I can.
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You would be surprised what a PC can accomplish. If the swirls are heavy use M105 with a cutting pad then 106FA with a polishing pad followed by 106FA with a finishing pad. If the swirling is not heavy omit the M105 step. Do a small section on the car to see what process is best. Any scratches you can feel with your finger nail do not try to take them out, as they have gone to far through the clear coat. When compounding and polishing you want to use some pressure but not too much that it starts to bog down the PC. With out using pressure and speed 6 when compounding and or polishing you will not accomplish much. When finishing with a finishing pad use very little pressure and speed 4 - 5 on the PC.
 
When using the PC, I always had better luck with speed 5 1/2. Speed six seemed to run to fast to rotate the pad, it just jiggled. Might want to try both and see what's best for you.
 
wfedwar said:
When using the PC, I always had better luck with speed 5 1/2. Speed six seemed to run to fast to rotate the pad, it just jiggled. Might want to try both and see what's best for you.
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When using a PC pressure must be applied thus eliminating any circular rotation, regardless of speed. If you are trying to accomplish swirl removal you need to use speed 6 for best and fastest results. Final finishing can de accomplished with a speed less than 6 but not correction work.
 
I'm sure it depends at least on the pad, if not also the compound and clear. At speed 6 with 5 1/2" orange using 3M 06060/2, I got more haze and less correction at speed 6. At 5 1/2 I applied as much pressure as I could that would still allow rotation and got better results.
 
wfedwar said:
I'm sure it depends at least on the pad, if not also the compound and clear. At speed 6 with 5 1/2" orange using 3M 06060/2, I got more haze and less correction at speed 6. At 5 1/2 I applied as much pressure as I could that would still allow rotation and got better results.
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Any pressure at all will stop rotation. On a level surface the weight of the machine alone pretty much stops the rotation. You got more haze on speed 6 because it was doing more work. The intent of the PC is to work in a random orbit motion (as the name implies) not like a rotary. The only reason it spins at all is because forces implied by the random orbit motion makes spinning on it own axis possible. Top speed is 6,000 OPM's (orbits per minute) not RPM's (rotations per minute). Compounds and polishes need friction to properly break down and by adding pressure you will aid the process with better results. If you haven't tried using pressure when compounding and polishing you should, I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
 
DSVWGLI said:
Any pressure at all will stop rotation. On a level surface the weight of the machine alone pretty much stops the rotation. You got more haze on speed 6 because it was doing more work. The intent of the PC is to work in a random orbit motion (as the name implies) not like a rotary. The only reason it spins at all is because forces implied by the random orbit motion makes spinning on it own axis possible. Top speed is 6,000 OPM's (orbits per minute) not RPM's (rotations per minute). Compounds and polishes need friction to properly break down and by adding pressure you will aid the process with better results. If you haven't tried using pressure when compounding and polishing you should, I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
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Would it make you feel better if I said that I'm just an idiot and clearly you know more? I don't need a lesson on orbital vs. rotary buffers. I'm just stating my observations.
 
wfedwar said:
Would it make you feel better if I said that I'm just an idiot and clearly you know more? I don't need a lesson on orbital vs. rotary buffers. I'm just stating my observations.
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Sorry just trying to help, didn't mean to come across like that :o. If you are able to remove heavy marring with out using pressure then that's great.
 
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