1000p ?

[Fallz]

Best way to apply is how ?



Put it on and let it dry or do a WOWO type of method. Putting this on my Silver 4runner.



I have a lot of grained trim so I have to be damn careful so I'll I'll have to do a hand application .



I also got a new/fresh tin of 1000p , 2 gallons of 425 , and a bottle of 215 to prep with. Thanks Autogeek for the quick service.

 

[Accumulator]

Fallguy- Let it dry to a haze until it'll pass the finger-swipe test, then buff it off. As with most any LSP, thin thin thin.



FWIW, though I do like applying LSPs, including pastes, by machine, I almost always find it easier to do a very thin application by hand anyhow.



FWIW, I've used it (intentionally ) on textured trim with no problems, but it's one of those "don't try this at home, kids!" things where I can imagine it going *VERY* wrong for somebody else. So yeah, keep it off or at least buff it off immediately before it dries. If you do a thick application and end up getting residual product dried in the texture it's gonna be a PIA.

 

[Fallz]

ok Thanks , Im ready to start the layers.



I have the 215 , but would you recommend the ZAIO instead ?

 

[Accumulator]

ok Thanks , Im ready to start the layers...

I'd only do one layer at a time, applying additional ones after each of a series of normally-scheduled washes. If/when something goes haywire with the layering (like a solvent-action or somesuch) it can be a big mess with pseudo-holograms that are amazingly hard to get rid of (I'd expected them to just buff away, but no...).

I have the 215 , but would you recommend the ZAIO instead ?

Sorry, never used the 215. But IME the FK1000P isn't as finicky about what it's applied over as I expected. It *does* work fine over ZAIO though, I used that combo on two of my vehicles.

 

[Fallz]

I will just do one at a time then . Although its going on my Silver 4Runner so I wonder if Id even see holograms. Its raining today and have nothing to do so I'm gonna work on it since its all clean and dry in the shop.



When you apply via PC how do you do it ? Do you prime the pad ? How do you get the product on the pad ? wipe the pad in the tin or apply the 1000p with a knife ? Just looking for some tips.



Only thing i HAVE to do today is watch the Packer game ....lol

 

[Accumulator]

I will just do one at a time then . Although its going on my Silver 4Runner so I wonder if Id even see holograms. Its raining today and have nothing to do so I'm gonna work on it since its all clean and dry in the shop...

Heh heh, get your inspection lighting right and you'll see even the faintest holograms on any color

When you apply via PC how do you do it ? Do you prime the pad ? How do you get the product on the pad ? wipe the pad in the tin or apply the 1000p with a knife ? Just looking for some tips...

I *don't* apply FK1000P by machine, period. Too hard to get a properly thin application, at least without wasting a lot of product (it flashes too fast for my taste when done by machine). Also, IMO doing it by machine usually takes *longer* than doing it by hand, so I only LSP that way when I have a (functional) reason to do it.



When I do apply pastes by machine (M16, 476S) I usually scrunch the pad up as if it were a hand-applicator so it'll fit into the tin (actually, I usually use the Cyclo and its 4" pads fit in there pretty well), rubbing it gently against the product. Sometimes I use a plastic razor blade to transfer it to the pad and then work it in a bit (others use a spatula/dull knife).



BUT, IMO the important thing is what you do *after* you transfer the product to the pad- you scrape most of it off. I use a plastic razor blade and I really try to get as much LSP back off the pad as possible. And I don't put much on there in the first place.



I honestly do believe that most people use *WAY* more product than they should and that it's not only wasteful but also makes the job harder and can even compromise the results (e.g., greater chance of solvent action preventing trouble-free layering). Consider this- I once waxed an entire A8 (by hand, not machine) with the tiny amount of wax that was left in the bottom rim of a seemingly empty can.



If a tin of FK1000P doesn't last even a Pro for ages then IMO something is very wrong. A tin of *any* wax lasts me for many, many years.

 

[Jesstzn]

I have done 3cars and a truck out of my FK1000 new can and I can still see the pour marks in the wax in the can. All by hand. The only time I do an lsp by pc is with say megs #21 on the roof of a truck / canopy combo, rest is by hand.

 

[Accumulator]

The only time I do an lsp by pc is with say megs #21 on the roof of a truck / canopy combo, rest is by hand.

If you ever use M16, try the machine with that one. It's "the paste wax that turns liquid" and it's kinda neat how it works out. I do get a slightly (OK, make that *VERY* slightly) better result doing that particular product by machine. Adding a tiny spritz of M16-compatible QD to the process can be intersting too, kinda a variation on spit-shining. Very, *very* good when it goes well, real PIA when it doesn't though.

 

[Jesstzn]

If you ever use M16, try the machine with that one. It's "the paste wax that turns liquid" and it's kinda neat how it works out. I do get a slightly (OK, make that *VERY* slightly) better result doing that particular product by machine. Adding a tiny spritz of M16-compatible QD to the process can be intersting too, kinda a variation on spit-shining. Very, *very* good when it goes well, real PIA when it doesn't though.

You still have M16 huh lol me too .. will try it with the PC come spring ..

 

[Accumulator]

You still have M16 huh ..

Yeah, I have a more-than-lifetime supply, bought a bunch back when the VOC regs were announced. Sometimes think I oughta auction some off for charity or something. I only use it on my wife's A8, and probably oughta switch that car to FK1000P but I like the wayback machine-effect of M16's scent.

 

[Jesstzn]

Well after a dozen vehicles done with FK1000p the only 2 down sides I have found are;



1) Dries really slow in cool humid weather.



2) If you get it in at the edge of a clear bra its a b*tch to get out. I even apply it like I always do .. stroke is from the clear bra to the paint and very very thing but for some reason it gets in there. And because it dries slow it seems even if you use your finger nail or a brush or toothpick to get it out residue will show up later. Taping the area off is an option but if you use 3/4" tape and put all but 1/8" on the bra then you don't have coverage on the bra. If you peel the tape up and try to reapply it in reverse it doesn't like to stick to the waxed hood so you can wax close to the edge of the bra.



Any suggestions for removing any FK1000p that might get in the area of the edge of the bra without removing the rest of the sealant?



BTW never have this issue with M21.

 

[Accumulator]

Jesstzn- Eh, never thought about the humidity as that's just not a factor in my shop. But I *should've* thought to warn you about the PPF-edge issue...sorry, completely slipped my mind now that I've sold the Yukon (which had *lots* of PPF edges and I used FK1000P on it).



I move the applicator "along" the edge rather than "against" it (parallel movement instead of perpendicular). And I almost W-O-W-O on those areas.



Try a plush MF damp with FK425, otherwise be *VERY* careful using a toothpick. Sharpen it to a flat point, like a tiny screwdriver. Flay the point with a razorblade so it's like a tiny brush. Soak this with QD to soften it. Use that and hope you're lucky. Wouldn't try it on Jet Black, but hey...



Really, it can be worked out. That Yukon had *countless* PPF edges/seams/etc. all over it and I did OK. Just took a little technique-tweaking to avoid the buildup. Doing the "properly thin application" goes a long way too.

 

[Jesstzn]

I move the applicator "along" the edge rather than "against" it (parallel movement instead of perpendicular). And I almost W-O-W-O on those areas.

I'll try that .. I applied it the opposite of against .. I went from on the film to off it ... ty for the tips.

 

[Fallz]

BTW never have this issue with M21.

M21 is one of my all time favorites . Durability is good and seems to stand up to auto washes pretty well. M20 is a great pre-application to M21 as it has cleaners in it. Nice combo !

 

[Accumulator]

.. I went from on the film to off it ... ty for the tips.

I'm a little surprised that approach didn't work out better. I think I'd try splitting the difference- going off the film at a diagonal but at a pretty acute angle. And buff buff buff along the edge before the product flashes.



IME you'll still have *some* issues with this not matter what you do, but if I could do OK on that Yukon then I'm confident that you'll find a solution too.

 

[Jesstzn]

I'll try a few things , prolly come spring. Our season is pretty much over , getting rainy & cold. Will be interesting to see how it holds up over the winter. I have used it on a doz. or so cars/trucks.

 

[Fallz]

I've been testing some areas with 1000p and 845 . I notice I have to put the 1000p on heavy just so I can see it. The 845 has a slight tint to it so I can see it slightly better.... The look between the 2 on my hood is ever so slightly different , but have noticed a cleaner look with the 1000p and a slight blueish hue to it where as the 845 has a little yellowish hue to it.



The problem is that I have A LOT or grained trim on my truck. Grill , fender flares , rockers , bumpers , door handles , blah , blah ..... The truck is Classic Silver metallic ( 2013 ) The 1000p seems to be so time consuming with application . I am going to ZAIO the truck first before laying down the 1000P . Anyone one know if the ZAIO will play hell with my grained trim ? Naturally I would try to keep it off there . Should I apply ZAIO by hand or with PC . The truck has some dealer wax on it so I need some type of cleaner to remove old wax. I've already clayed it and washed it so maybe its wax free (except the hood which is half 1000p and half 845.



I hope the durability will be there after all of this to hold up to detergent washes and winter road salt. I will be maintaining with FK 425 which has some polymer in it to hopefully keeping up with it during the winter season.



Does anyone know if DG or ONR rinseless wash kills 1000p like it does with 845. I'd hate to loose all my hard work.

 

[Accumulator]

I've been testing some areas with 1000p and 845 . I notice I have to put the 1000p on heavy just so I can see it...

Hmm...IMO that's *way* to heavy. If I can clearly see it I figure I really, *really* messed up.

The 845 has a slight tint to it so I can see it slightly better....

Even with 845 I wouldn't want to see it very clearly. I go more by tactile cues than by sight, generally have to fog the surface with my breath to clearly see it on the paint.

The problem is that I have A LOT or grained trim on my truck. Grill , fender flares , rockers , bumpers , door handles , blah , blah ..... The truck is Classic Silver metallic ( 2013 ) The 1000p seems to be so time consuming with application .

IF the FK1000P ends up being too much of a PIA, I might give some thought to using KSG on that instead, just because of the trim issue.

I am going to ZAIO the truck first before laying down the 1000P . Anyone one know if the ZAIO will play hell with my grained trim ? Naturally I would try to keep it off there .

I've had some issues with ZAIO on textured and smooth black plastic trim. I'd use Klasse AIO instead if it were enough of an issue (as with the FK1000P).

Should I apply ZAIO by hand or with PC . The truck has some dealer wax on it so I need some type of cleaner to remove old wax. I've already clayed it and washed it so maybe its wax free (except the hood which is half 1000p and half 845.

I wouldn't expect a washing or claying to remove the dealer's LSP, but then I clay a lot more gently than most people. I generally do ZAIO by machine but I find it can be challenging to not use too much product that way, easier for me to use less by hand.

I hope the durability will be there after all of this to hold up to detergent washes and winter road salt. I will be maintaining with FK 425 which has some polymer in it to hopefully keeping up with it during the winter season.

Maybe you'll find it so good that it'll be worth the application hassles, it sure is for me. I *would* get two coats on there before winter though.

Does anyone know if DG or ONR rinseless wash kills 1000p like it does with 845. I'd hate to loose all my hard work.

IME (which is limited as I hardly ever use ONR) it does not strip the FK1000P the way it did 845. And I hear the latest version of ONR doesn't mess with Collinite any more anyhow.