08 Black Cayman S - Leaving streaks after D300/D151/M105 - Going to Menz 87

LeMarque

LeMarque

New member
I can never seem to remember to take comprehensive before and after photos, but the below should adequate.



The Cayman has light swirls, scratches and water marks. I had great success on a Blue 97 using D300 and MF pads. This time, trying both Megs and Opti's with the above mentioned products on a GG D/A, I'm experiencing a couple of issues.



First is that whichever pad/product combo I try, it's not finishing down at all. It looks to me like it's marring. (no pics of this tho, sorry). So then I grabbed an LC Green and a LC Flat blue Finessing pad and went to Menz 87. Both remove the swirls and water marks. So unless someone - hopefully, has another suggestion, I'm sticking with this combo.



But one more ques. I've experienced this on a black 04 Land Cruiser as well. After polishing, say with 205, these 'streaks' appear after buffing of the residue. Even after an IPA wipe down, I can make them re-appear by buffing with a soft MF towel. User error?



P1030088.jpg




P1030089.jpg




P1030079.jpg
 
With that level of defects you're going to need to do atleast a 2 step.



Use M105/D300 for cutting duties because you aren't going to finish down perfectly on soft black Porsche paint.



85rd for the win after.
 
David Fermani said:
With that level of defects you're going to need to do atleast a 2 step.



Use M105/D300 for cutting duties because you aren't going to finish down perfectly on soft black Porsche paint.



85rd for the win after.
Click to expand...



Thanks David.



Problem one is that I quoted based upon a one step correction; Then LSP. So now not only am I a day or two behind schedule, I've got to reason with him about raising the price :(



And about those 'steaks' (just in case you thought those were scratches). I've only just begun running up against them. Hadn't seem them before. Even on a black BMW.



-



Lance
 
I agree with David, that level of defect removal is going to need two steps, but fortunately Porsche paint is pretty easy to work on. D300 is probably going to be your best cut/best finishing down combo with a MF pad. Since you already quoted a price, maybe you could finishing it down at no extra charge and call it a learning experience.
 
RZJZA80 said:
I agree with David, that level of defect removal is going to need two steps, but fortunately Porsche paint is pretty easy to work on. D300 is probably going to be your best cut/best finishing down combo with a MF pad. Since you already quoted a price, maybe you could finishing it down at no extra charge and call it a learning experience.
Click to expand...



"So it is written, so it shall be."



The owner is having a clear bra installed after I've completed my work. Problem is, I'm behind and the bra guy needs it by tomorrow; so I may only have the front of the car ready - I'm Dr. ColorChipping dozens of road rash chips in the process - so I'll have to twist arms to get it back and finish to post pics.



Operating this business is something I never considered; talking to customers, deciding what to order, trying to find and keep good help ... it's almost impossible to start and stay on a project without distractions :drama:
 
David Fermani said:
With that level of defects you're going to need to do atleast a 2 step.



Use M105/D300 for cutting duties because you aren't going to finish down perfectly on soft black Porsche paint.



85rd for the win after.
Click to expand...



So it finally came back after the clear bra install.



I used D300 on a GG at speed 4 - it marred - followed by M205 with Green - Followed by PO85Rd with a blue and this is the result:



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P1030258.jpg
 
I am going to help you.



First, the good news is that you will not likely run into terrible paint like this too often.



After your finishing step (85rd) do not wipe it off - Put your LSP on top of 85rd. Let is haze and use a red or blue finishing pad to remove the wax. In this case, HD POXY would be very helpful due to how easy it is to remove. Another option is a product like EZ creme glaze on top of 85rd or what ever finishing polish. EZ creme you can work into the paint and there is hardly anything to wipe - apply OS or ZCS and walk away. If you have any residue, again use a finishing pad to remove.



LeMarque said:
So it finally came back after the clear bra install.



I used D300 on a GG at speed 4 - it marred - followed by M205 with Green - Followed by PO85Rd with a blue and this is the result:



P1030259.jpg




P1030258.jpg
Click to expand...
 
It could be your towels leaving those marks. I have had this happen to me a couple times and it turned out to be something on the MF I was using. Weird thing is it's very random and pretty much impossible to duplicate on purpose so I don't know exactly what was causing it, but switched to a different MF and no more problems.
 
So this is what it looks like after Uno. I really need to take bfore pics. It was in terrible shape. But, Any help in finishing down would be greatly appreciated.



If you look closely, Still some fine (what - marring?) Just here and there, but I'm not happy.



P1030316.jpg




From a few feet back:





P1030328.jpg
 
You need to do more of a jeweling type process to get it to finish down. I remember there was someone else having the same problem and I made that suggestion and it worked for him.
 
Did you read my reply?



LeMarque said:
So this is what it looks like after Uno. I really need to take bfore pics. It was in terrible shape. But, Any help in finishing down would be greatly appreciated.



If you look closely, Still some fine (what - marring?) Just here and there, but I'm not happy.



P1030316.jpg




From a few feet back:





P1030328.jpg
Click to expand...
 
I would use a medium polish followed with a glaze, such as Poorboys blackhole, and then top it with a lsp who is easy to remove: Optimum opti seal or Menzerna Power lock.



The car will be swirled up after the first wash anyways.
 
It could be your towels leaving those marks. I have had this happen to me a couple times and it turned out to be something on the MF I was using. Weird thing is it's very random and pretty much impossible to duplicate on purpose so I don't know exactly what was causing it, but switched to a different MF and no more problems.
Click to expand...



I use Micro-Restore to wash my towels and use Cobra Miracle Towels only for buffing/wiping down. But I'll pay closer attention.







ExplicitDetails said:
Here's the thread where I made the jeweling suggestion:



http://www.autopia.org/forum/machin...black-ford-ranger-not-polishing-out-tips.html
Click to expand...



Thanks - BookMarked.
 
porta said:
I would use a medium polish followed with a glaze, such as Poorboys blackhole, and then top it with a lsp who is easy to remove: Optimum opti seal or Menzerna Power lock.



The car will be swirled up after the first wash anyways.
Click to expand...



I actually like Opti-Seal. Used it on a light blue Outback that was trashed -Edit - not trashed - and it finished out beautifully.



My understanding of glaze, and I'm probably wrong, is that it hides. I need to perfect my skills so that after a three step I can post in 'Click and Brag.



But thanks for the suggestion. May try it where appropriate.
 
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