BOSS BEST IN SHOW SYSYEM

Bull6791- I suspect most people don't realize it until they see rust-blooms. Using a color-indicator Iron Remover will basically just show whether it was necessary or...whether you just wasted resources trying to fix something that wasn't broken after all!

Processes like the baggie-test can show whether there's above-surface contamination (e.g. industrial/etc. fallout) or not, but as for minute particles that can be in the pores/microfissures, those might not be evident until they start corroding and even then it will show up best (or worst!) on light-colored surfaces.

Using an iron/fallout remover isn't hard. If you're doing a complete Detail anyhow, especially on a light-colored vehicle, then maybe it's a good idea. Spray the stuff on, wait a few minutes, rinse it off, done. But I could argue just as well that unless you have a reason to suspect it's necessary, eh...why bother? The last two times I did it, it appeared utterly unnecessary so I figure I wasted a few $ and maybe 30 minutes.
 
I recently used a clay mitt on my car. I didn't think too much about it since I was using it with soapy water. This mitt was several years old and left some scratches. As for iron decons I guess it depends on the environment. If you are near industrial areas it would probably be worthwhile to use it on occasion.

I recently tried the Boss Correcting cream. It's really easy to use and didn't dust at all. It was about 60 degrees and the only thing was that it took some slight effort to remove. That might b a weather issue, I'm not sure.
 
I do not like the baggie test at all. I prefer after the car is washed to run my bare hands across the paint. If paint feels rough and gritty. It needs to be clayed
 
Bull6791 said:
I do not like the baggie test at all. I prefer after the car is washed to run my bare hands across the paint. If paint feels rough and gritty. It needs to be clayed
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What's not to like about it? It's the same thing, just using a baggie to amplify the contaminants so you can feel them more easily.
 
I heard that both the OptiSeal and COLLINITE 845 are both really good. The only difference is COLLINITE 845 last longer and is more work.
 
Bull6791 said:
I heard that both the OptiSeal and COLLINITE 845 are both really good. The only difference is COLLINITE 845 last longer and is more work.
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Well, that's one way of looking at it. I've said before on this forum, that if I was starting over I would just use a WOWA sealant like Opti-Seal, and forget everything else (granted, that was before ceramic coatings). I have not used the latest version of Opti-Seal that has the ceramic component, I can imagine that might be a little less forgiving than the earlier versions.
 
Bull6791 said:
Since I never used OptiSeal before. What is the difference in the versions. Thanks.
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I'm not sure if that is really relevant since you can only get the latest version, and I'm not sure exactly how many versions of Opti-Seal there have been, but certainly the early versions were very forgiving if you put too much on, you could come back later and knock down any "high spots". I don't know if the latest version which has ceramic added will be as forgiving.

The advantage of using a WOWA (wipe on, walk away) sealant is you can use it on everything and not worry about getting any residue or buildup on say, trim, emblems, etc. Not that 845 is bad in that regard, but if you have a raised emblem or a panel gap, you can still get excess in some edges that might be hard to remove later.
 
Bull6791 said:
The only thing is COLLINITE 845 last longer
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Well, if you want something that lasts the longest, apply a coating. Has someone done some sort of controlled longevity test between Opti-Seal and 845? I suppose with YouTube anything is possible. Opti-Seal and 845 are both good products, you can't go wrong with either one. There are also a lot of very good products. To quote the Scarecrow from the Wizard of Oz, "that way is a very nice way; it's pleasant down that way, too". Or maybe it was a YouTube detailer that said that; I can't remember.
 
TGATES.
To answer your question. I don’t know how long OptiSeal or COLLINITE 845 last. I just heard COLLINITE 845 last longer.
 
The black mustang above was topped with 845.. it's due for another polish soon and I'll be using Jescar Powerlock then topping with 845 again. Just my personal preference for this car.
 
That is a really good combination. Jescar power lock topped with 845. COLLINITE 845 is really good by itself. It does not need anything else. The only thing in my opinion that that combination does is add more work.
 
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