First attempt with Max Wax

Addicted2Bling

Addicted2Bling

New member
Had a chance to try this out yesterday, which I can say this is probably one of the best waxes I have ever used. This stuff sells for around $35 and now I can see why. It goes on really slick and wet, not like your normal paste wax that dries up like a candle when it's done, this stuff is smooth as butter going on, smooth as butter coming off. Buffing it off was really easy, however I did notice that it can be really streaky if you don't buff it off just right, it leaves window like streak marks if you don't buff it off long enough, but after all of that is off, it leaves a shine that makes you fall in love. I am extremely happy with this product and I'm pretty sure I will be using it again

EDIT: Excuse the poor phone picture quality, next time I'll shoot with my canon

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:cool:
 
Max wax is a really nice wax. It goes on super easy by hand however I prefer to apply most all my waxes and sealants with my Porter Cable 7424 dual action polisher with a blue or red pad.

Applying waxes in this fashion allow me much better control over the film thickness and and coverage. This not only makes buffing a pleasure but also does not waste precious product we pay so much for..:bigups
 
Thanks everyone...

BobbyG said:
Max wax is a really nice wax. It goes on super easy by hand however I prefer to apply most all my waxes and sealants with my Porter Cable 7424 dual action polisher with a blue or red pad.
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And how do you apply this to a pad I would like to know? The little tube seems like it would be too small for even a 4 inch pad.
 
Grad yourself a microfiber glove. (This is for grip on the virgin wax. You don't want to drop it.) Turn the tub of wax upside down and tap the bottom until the block slides out. You then spread it onto the pad and place it back in the tub. This it the same concept as the Griot garage wax stick.
 
Addicted2Bling said:
And how do you apply this to a pad I would like to know? The little tube seems like it would be too small for even a 4 inch pad.
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TroyScherer said:
Grad yourself a microfiber glove. (This is for grip on the virgin wax. You don't want to drop it.) Turn the tub of wax upside down and tap the bottom until the block slides out. You then spread it onto the pad and place it back in the tub. This it the same concept as the Griot garage wax stick.
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There are several approaches you can take and Troy's outlined a nice one!

I took a 1" wide paint brush and cut the bristles down to "about" 1/2 to 3/4 long. The shorter length increases the spine strength allowing it to muscle some of that wax from the tub then wipe it on the pad. This works well with all of your softer paste waxes.

An alternative to the above is to scrape some from the tub with a putty knife then apply it to the foam pad.

Once the polisher is switched on the paste wax melts quickly allowing you to work it into the paint nicely therefore achieving full coverage and an even thin coat.
 
Once the polisher is switched on the paste wax melts quickly allowing you to work it into the paint nicely therefore achieving full coverage and an even thin coat.

Is it really possible to work wax "into" the paint? Or do you mean it's easier to spread a very thin film over the paint?

Does it really "melt" the wax? My pad never gets warm enough to melt wax when laying it on the paint (no pressure).

Does pad application give more brilliance than hand application?
 
BobbyG said:
There are several approaches you can take and Troy's outlined a nice one!

I took a 1" wide paint brush and cut the bristles down to "about" 1/2 to 3/4 long. The shorter length increases the spine strength allowing it to muscle some of that wax from the tub then wipe it on the pad. This works well with all of your softer paste waxes.

An alternative to the above is to scrape some from the tub with a putty knife then apply it to the foam pad.

Once the polisher is switched on the paste wax melts quickly allowing you to work it into the paint nicely therefore achieving full coverage and an even thin coat.
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Nice idea, Bobby! I personally use Troy's suggested method but perhaps i'll give the paint brush method a try. The only thing I would mention is the putty knife method may have an inexperienced user over apply the wax and I think we all know what happens when too much of any product is applied at once...

Good thinking though!
 
^Glove trick does the job for me. Prevents over application. Got to be careful when it's really hot out the wax can soften up and smear on the pad pretty easily.
 
Mr. Gloss said:
Once the polisher is switched on the paste wax melts quickly allowing you to work it into the paint nicely therefore achieving full coverage and an even thin coat.

Is it really possible to work wax "into" the paint? Or do you mean it's easier to spread a very thin film over the paint?

Does it really "melt" the wax? My pad never gets warm enough to melt wax when laying it on the paint (no pressure).

Does pad application give more brilliance than hand application?
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Melt may be too strong of a word to use but the small pieces of wax do soften enough to lay down nicely. A contributing factor to this would also be the surface temperature.

My personal belief is that applying wax in the method I've outlined forces the wax into the surface finish. Even though we've polished the surface to a glossy shine under magnification the surface is made up of small microscopic lines and scratches. While the surface may seem perfect to the touch or the naked eye it's simply not true.

This is an example of what the surface finish looks like after polishing. Although this illustration shows a glaze filling microscopic scratches and pores the same applies to sealants and waxes.

Cross-section.jpg


Applying sealants and waxes with a dual action polisher "works" or forces the product into the tiniest pores. This is accomplished through friction, pad rotation, downward pressure, and capillary action as the product liquefies.

A thin uniform coat of wax gives the consistency we all strive to achieve. Applying sealants and waxes using a dual action polisher accomplishes just that...

Applying sealants and waxes by hand doesn't have the ability to accomplish the above and for the most part leaves allot of product on the surface only to be removed with a buffing cloth and therefore wasted..
 
Thanks for clarifying that.

Working the wax into the pores and imperfections (filling them) makes more sense than working the wax into the paint finish. I suppose that may give it a smoother look if used as a standalone without polishing or glaze.

When it comes to durability, does the DA polisher applied wax outlast the hand applied wax?
 
Mr. Gloss said:
When it comes to durability, does the DA polisher applied wax outlast the hand applied wax?
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I would say no, IMO that's purely dependent on the product itself given that the product is properly applied in general.

I've applied both waxes and sealants by hand and by machine and haven't noticed any discrepancy with either method in terms of durability. Bobby does bring up a valid point, but for durability I would have to say no.
 
^^Think about it, when you use a polisher it's spinning at 1000's of RPMS, it's forcing the wax into whatever kind of crevices and dips and scratches that are in the paint, how many RPMs do you think you get out of your hand? I rest my case....:D
 
John@Autopia-Carcare.com said:
I would say no, IMO that's purely dependent on the product itself given that the product is properly applied in general.

I've applied both waxes and sealants by hand and by machine and haven't noticed any discrepancy with either method in terms of durability. Bobby does bring up a valid point, but for durability I would have to say no.
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I agree with this completely John...:bigups

Durability is directly related to the product, it's ingredients, and its application.

Once I began applying products with a machine I sensed a thoroughness or a greatly improved uniformity and, this is huge, everything was so easy to buff once the products had hazed.....
 
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