Borax

Ronkh said:
IMHO
I'd still try it on an old spare part (get at junk yard). (bonus, you get to perfect your other techniques on this)

If IRCC (and i may be wrong) castile soap contians oils. So waxing may be worthless.

Metro Vac = GREAT CHOICE
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JMO, but acquiring a junkyard part for this experiment is overkill. Countless people use water from water softeners w/o reporting ill effects. There seems to be potential for undissolved salts and no one bats an eye.

Yes, castile soaps contain vegetable oils (olive oil is one choice) rather than animal fats (tallow). For personal hygiene I prefer them. Haven't ever considered using them for car wash, but I don't get how waxing would be worthless? I've waxed following a wash with a wash-n-wax type product w/o issues. :confused:
 
Mr. Clean said:
JMO, but acquiring a junkyard part for this experiment is overkill. Countless people use water from water softeners w/o reporting ill effects. There seems to be potential for undissolved salts and no one bats an eye.

Yes, castile soaps contain vegetable oils (olive oil is one choice) rather than animal fats (tallow). For personal hygiene I prefer them. Haven't ever considered using them for car wash, but I don't get how waxing would be worthless? I've waxed following a wash with a wash-n-wax type product w/o issues. :confused:
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The undisolved crystals scare me.

As far as waxing over oil, prolly won't wrok. Nothing for the wax to adhere to.
 
Ronkh said:
The undisolved crystals scare me.

As far as waxing over oil, prolly won't wrok. Nothing for the wax to adhere to.
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Undisolved crystals are a matter for some concern, but I think scrubs will probably monitor that pretty closely.

Most people rinse as part of their wash process. ;) I can't see any issues with waxing. Your skin doesn't bead up after washing with it. :D
 
Mr. Clean said:
Undisolved crystals are a matter for some concern, but I think scrubs will probably monitor that pretty closely.

Most people rinse as part of their wash process. ;) I can't see any issues with waxing. Your skin doesn't bead up after washing with it. :D
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Actually the oil in the soap is to lock moisture in (i believe) to stop dryness.
If I got my bet right, the wax will just glide over and not adhere correctly.

Love to get an unbiased opinion
 
Ronkh said:
Actually the oil in the soap is to lock moisture in (i believe) to stop dryness.
If I got my bet right, the wax will just glide over and not adhere correctly.

Love to get an unbiased opinion
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Hopefully scrubs will chime in with his results.

I guess I could break out my Dr. Bronner's soap and figure out a dilution ratio and test it myself. I would first have to generate enough interest.
 
Just get some vegetable oil, wipe it on a clean car, and dry. It'll shine......

THen try to wax it............... :)

It might work in some spots and in others it won't. It'll smear and the parts that didn't adhere to properly it will be gone quickly
 
Ronkh said:
Just get some vegetable oil, wipe it on a clean car, and dry. It'll shine......

THen try to wax it............... :)

It might work in some spots and in others it won't. It'll smear and the parts that didn't adhere to properly it will be gone quickly
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You have a misconception of castile soap. Your example is off base as a result. Go shower with some Dr. Bronner's (or Kirk's or [pick one]) and then shower with some Wesson. It will help you understand the difference.
 
I prefer having castile soap applied by a buxom nurse during a sponge bath.
It's still gonna be adding a layer of oil to it. might be fun to try during a plain old wash, but i'd still bet tha it wont be wax friendly
 
Ronkh said:
I prefer having castile soap applied by a buxom nurse during a sponge bath.
It's still gonna be adding a layer of oil to it. might be fun to try during a plain old wash, but i'd still bet tha it wont be wax friendly
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Well if we're going to go there, might as well have two buxom nurses. Here in Florida our water is hard all over, and I have wondered about any film or residue it may create. Right now it's too darn cold (20 degrees this morning) to experiment on anything other than propane (heat).

I did order some Polish & Seal from Stoner to complete the outside. Probably later in the week once the sun realizes that needs to step up to the plate.
 
scrubs147 said:
Well if we're going to go there, might as well have two buxom nurses.
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office+space+lawrence.jpg


APPROVES!
 
Mr. Clean said:
Most people rinse as part of their wash process. ;) I can't see any issues with waxing. Your skin doesn't bead up after washing with it. :D
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WOW this has to be the best comparing Skin (a porous moisture absorbing membrane) to a painted surface ? ? ? OK... terrific


Ronkh said:
As far as waxing over oil, prolly won't work. Nothing for the wax to adhere to.
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Correct me if I'm wrong but does not "wax" have a cleaners built in them inherently???... they want to make sure there product has the the best surface to adhere there to.


edited spelling and sentence structure.... I think I need sleep... Call me in May
(12-29-10)
 
Beercan31 said:
WOW this has to be the best comparing Skin (a porous moisture absorbing membrane) to a painted surface ? ? ? OK... terrific




Correct me if i'm wrong but does not "wax" have a cleaners built in them inhearently???... they want to make sure there produce has the the best surface to adhear there product to.
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I don't think all waxes have cleaners. They do have to have some carrier solvents and other things in them, probably including oil of some sort. I'm not a chemist by any means, but unless I used an AIO, I personally wouldn't expect cleaning capabilities out of a jar of wax.
 
The results are in; the temperature today is 72 degrees Fahrenheit with over cast skies, and winds around 10-15 mph.

I used my on-board 35 gallon water tank & mixed the Borax solution accordingly which was ½ cup of Borax to every gallon of water. The Borax is very fine so dilution didn’t take as long as I thought it would - about 15 minutes of stirring. I use a “Wayne” portable water pump for my tank to wash vehicles with whenever I don’t have water hookup.

According to the article I found online, it stated that by using a vegetable oil soap it would leave you with a shiny car. In a wash bucket I used “Murphy’s Oil Soap” which didn’t offer any suds, however, the car washed up fairly well. After rinsing off the vehicle I simply let it dry on its own. The side of the car ended up spotless, the windows however were full of spots. On the car’s hood you could see water drips (not spots) which may have come from the residue left behind by the Borax. The wheels and rims washed up really good with the help of Stoner’s wheel cleaner.

The car didn’t seam any shinier than by using “Meguiar’s” Gold Class Car Wash... In fact, I believe that Meguiar’s had a better overall gloss appearance afterwards.

The wash water (after preparing it to wash the car with) was almost a milky white which meant that even though it wasn’t visible on the car after rinsing, it was no doubt in the rinse water which meant it probably was leaving a film which was seen in the water stream marks on the hood. If the sun had been out, then these results would have been multiplied and much worse.

Bottom line... I am now looking into some sort of water softener system.

I will be finishing up my wife’s car with Stoner’s Polish & Sealant, but that’s a separate story in itself.
 
Just finished polishing the car with Stoner's Polish & Seal. The Stoner's worked better then expected, in fact I may only use Stoner's Polish & Seal instead of a wax for now on.

The Borax however left a film that it was difficult getting the windows clean, but I managed. There were some spots that remained on the car and those spots (especially on the windows) turned white. There was so much residue left over from the Borax that I will end up having to wash the car and re-wax it all over again.
 
scrubs147 said:
Just finished polishing the car with Stoner's Polish & Seal. The Stoner's worked better then expected, in fact I may only use Stoner's Polish & Seal instead of a wax for now on.

The Borax however left a film that it was difficult getting the windows clean, but I managed. There were some spots that remained on the car and those spots (especially on the windows) turned white. There was so much residue left over from the Borax that I will end up having to wash the car and re-wax it all over again.
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Well, at least your curiosity has been sated, and it doesn't sound (ie. not mention) as though any harm was done to the surface.

I checked my bottle of Murphy's Oil Soap (though the bottle says it contains no oils :confused:) and it does say it is suitable for painted surfaces, but I always assumed those painted surfaces were wood surfaces. I know it is a great product for cleaning stained wood paneling, but even there I use it at a slightly lighter dilution than the instructions suggest.
 
Mr. Clean said:
I checked my bottle of Murphy's Oil Soap (though the bottle says it contains no oils :confused:) and it does say it is suitable for painted surfaces, but I always assumed those painted surfaces were wood surfaces. I know it is a great product for cleaning stained wood paneling, but even there I use it at a slightly lighter dilution than the instructions suggest.
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I'm not a Murphy's user but had always assumed it was THE soap for oiled wood products. The commercials used to show the women of the Parish cleaning the wooden church pews with it.
 
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