Premium Detailed. Lots of randomness.

Paints do not have "oils" that they can lose. If that be the case then one should be able to replace those oils. You can't. Thus paints do not have oils.

This is a myth and comes from marketing hype.

"Try our new Polish X! It cleans and replenishes the oils in your paint lost through oxidation!"

Your cars paint will only absorb materials small enough to pass through the cross linking of the paint itself, such as water and other solvents.

This is right up there with, "Our unique buffing process re-flows your paint so as to fill in scratches and swirls!"

Anthony


By the way, nice work on the vehicles :)
 
Anthony O. said:
Paints do not have "oils" that they can lose. If that be the case then one should be able to replace those oils. You can't. Thus paints do not have oils.

This is a myth and comes from marketing hype.

"Try our new Polish X! It cleans and replenishes the oils in your paint lost through oxidation!"

Your cars paint will only absorb materials small enough to pass through the cross linking of the paint itself, such as water and other solvents.

This is right up there with, "Our unique buffing process re-flows your paint so as to fill in scratches and swirls!"

Anthony


By the way, nice work on the vehicles :)
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What about an acrylic conditioner ? :inspector:
 
Well actually Anthony..you can re flow the paint to fill in scratches.It is a buffing technique,not a product.It does work 50% of the time and up to 85-90% depending on the depth of the scratch.Maybe The Oils of the paint was not the correct term.... However some car soaps strip away the gloss property's of the paint,whatever you wish to call them, and enough wrong usage of Dish washing detergent for car soap ...will cause the clear coat to splinter,dry out.....and eventually lead to de lamination of the clearcoat finish.
Also.....when continued use of improper car soap ,and the paint becomes dry, dirt and other nasty's tend to embed much deeper....making buffing a harder task for most detailer's.
So excuse me for the improper term
 
cartoysautospa said:
Well actually Anthony..you can re flow the paint to fill in scratches.It is a buffing technique,not a product.It does work 50% of the time and up to 85-90% depending on the depth of the scratch.Maybe The Oils of the paint was not the correct term.... However some car soaps strip away the gloss property's of the paint,whatever you wish to call them, and enough wrong usage of Dish washing detergent for car soap ...will cause the clear coat to splinter,dry out.....and eventually lead to de lamination of the clearcoat finish.
Also.....when continued use of improper car soap ,and the paint becomes dry, dirt and other nasty's tend to embed much deeper....making buffing a harder task for most detailer's.
So excuse me for the improper term
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OK, first I agree, dish soap or soaps high on the alkaline scale dry rubber trim and such out.

Secondly you cannot re-flow paint in the sense of filling anything in. If that be true then how do you clean your pads or keep them from gumming up with re-liquefied paint? Think of all the high and low spots you would have if that were possible.

Scratches are not removed when leveling paint, as I am sure you know, but rather the surrounding paint is leveled down to the depth of the scratch thus it only appears the scratch is being removed. When a clear coat is buffed and too much heat is applied, which would be required to "flow" paint, you will either drive the scratch deeper down as the paint expands or you will burn through.

Now it's possible that I am in the wrong here but after speaking with several paint chemists I believe it is impossible to "re-flow" paint. Now I have heard (never seen it) that it's possible to shift paint on lacquer single stage paints and use the oxidized paint to fill in scratches. Again I highly doubt this also.

Anthony
 
i agree, dish soap and antibacterial soap are terrible to use on a car, but reflowing paint, and oils in urethane based paint? lol thats the craziest thing ive ever heard of. clear coat is catalyzed urethane, not oil based, it dries like glass.

i think megs hyper wash would have been a much better choice then dawn dish soap to be honest, just my recommendation but i think you should reconsider the dish soap.
 
Anthony....I also found it impossible.until I had a guy from Myrtle Beach ,SC show me this technique in 1996. He billed himself as "Dr. Shine" he sold a line of products, but more a technique to remove acid rain.
As I said you can perform this technique with most types of compounds. It does not work on every single scratch.It needs to be a scratch that is no deeper than 1000 grit scratch. Some scratches that wet sanding want remove even if you went down to 1000 grit paper.It works well on clear coat scratches.
The technique is not for the timid.As you generate lots of heat with the buffing pad,and there is a fine line between the scratch being re -flowed and covered up and burning the paint.
I have burnt many panels learning this technique. but once learned......is just something extra to have in your detailing tool box.If you have some interest or any of you do in this technique ,I will take some photos on how to do it along with a guideline of how to do it. ,but again it is not for the timid or inexperienced wheel man.
 
Just an observation on my part.

The term "fe-flowing" would mean that the paint was somehow re-liquified and then flowed into scratches etc.

Even if it were possible to re-liquify the paint, the pad would pick up or soak up the paint that had been liquified.

MYTH BUSTED
 
I think I remember "re-flowing" paint was done on older single stage lead paint. Not that I have ever done it, seen it done, etc. Just saying I think it used to be an option a long time ago.
 
JaredPointer said:
I think I remember "re-flowing" paint was done on older single stage lead paint. Not that I have ever done it, seen it done, etc. Just saying I think it used to be an option a long time ago.
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Thata would make sense. But not with paints of today.
 
JaredPointer said:
I think I remember "re-flowing" paint was done on older single stage lead paint. Not that I have ever done it, seen it done, etc. Just saying I think it used to be an option a long time ago.
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thats a good question, ill have to ask my dad about that, hes been painting since before i was born, it helps to have spent 25 years growing up in the business :lmfao
 
JaredPointer said:
I think I remember "re-flowing" paint was done on older single stage lead paint. Not that I have ever done it, seen it done, etc. Just saying I think it used to be an option a long time ago.
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Yup, lacquer paints is where I used to hear this term used. I even had one of the old timers (he was very good) show me the process when I was in my early 20's. His job turned out just fine but his wool pad looked just like mine when he was finished and so did the end product and I'll I was doing was "polishing/buffing" to the best of my knowledge.

I guess I can say that I never really believed the process did what the term implied. Maybe I've been re-flowing paint all these years. I really didn't know I was that good. I also had another painter try to tell me that he could spray an area that was particularly poorly prepped and fix it with a buffer once the paint had dried by re-flowing the paint. The Bondo had shrunk and had lines/cracks in it, there was no way this was happening. Of course I was thinking why don't you just have the body guys do the job right before you get to it. As I remember he couldn't get the guys back on it and still meet his schedule. I knew he couldn't fix it and a couple of weeks later saw the car, it appeared to have been dipped in paint multiple times (the paint appeared exceptionally thick).

It was probably a decent 15 footer with nice gloss but on closer inspection it had the same lines I saw before it was painted though less exaggerated and had been buffed out by him. I think he put so much primer and paint down he tried to fill the cracks. With today's paints I'm more resolute on this opinion than in the past.
 
I guess I need to clarify to you guys even more. This process is "NOT" that your re flowing the paint as paints today are base coat clear coat, except Toyota Black which is still single stage up until 2007-08. But you can re flow the clear....or level the clear to cover up a scratch. I do not use a wool pad..however the guy that taught me, a wool pad is what he demonstrated it to me with.I use a Ardex , Yellow foam pad or a Lake Country Purple Pad. I use a compound similar t o 3M's perfect cut ( orange) which polishes 1000-1500 grit scratches. You use a first a slow speed 600 rpms and push the compound into the surface,(about 25lbs. pf pressure) when the compound becomes slick then turn up the speed of your buffer to 1750-2000 rpms. You then want to move the buffer back n forth in a aggressive manner...........to disperse the heat. this generates lots of heat. you want to keep your eye on the scratch............keep moving the buffer.once the temperature gets right......the clear fills the scratch. I use glass cleaner.............. to quickly remove the haze. oyu will be able to tell if you got the paint hot enuff as the glass cleaner should be smokin.
After you wipe down the area............ I use a Ardex Green foam pad with some polishing compound light cut like........... 3m perfectict 2 or something similar. I don;t use this brand , but whatever you like. buff that at 2000 or above rpm until it's slick.. And if you want to go another step.. wipe it down again , I use a Ardex Blue pad with just some straight cleaner polish. It's a lot of steps..........most guys don't have the patience to do this, but it can be effective on the right car. again it's not for every scratch...........but it does work.
It's not for the timid buffer. But it has made me the fair haired boy on occasion with a client that took his car elsewhere. hey but what do I know.
CarToys Inc
 
lol

A) you cant reflow urethane clear without ruining it because the heat it needs to flow again would wreck the finish, i suggest you do your research on how urethane paints work

B) your not reflowing anything by what you described, your leveling the clear by using compound and polish....just like every other method described on here

C) your obviously a troll and your spamming your website in you user name and posts
 
Spawne32 said:
lol

A) you cant reflow urethane clear without ruining it because the heat it needs to flow again would wreck the finish, i suggest you do your research on how urethane paints work

B) your not reflowing anything by what you described, your leveling the clear by using compound and polish....just like every other method described on here

C) your obviously a troll and your spamming your website in you user name and posts
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This is just a matter of good manners. I assure you cartoysautospa is very sincere in this belief. There is no cause to call someone a troll because they practice a technique that is not generally accepted by the majority of this forum. Since the last incarnation of this site posting a link to your own detailing site in your signature, (as long as you are not a product vendor) is perfectly acceptable. Other than to say he has products custom made for his own purposes I have not seen him name a product.
 
GearHead_1 said:
I assure you cartoysautospa is very sincere in this belief. There is no cause to call someone a troll because they have a belief in a technique. Since the last incarnation of this site posting a link to your own detailing site, (as long as you are not a product vendor) is perfectly acceptable.
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fair enough, but bad advice isn't a technique, everyone on this forum, including yourself, knows that when you heat urethane clear to the melting point, you damage it, not correct it.
 
Spawne32 said:
fair enough, but bad advice isn't a technique, everyone on this forum, including yourself, knows that when you heat urethane clear to the melting point, you damage it, not correct it.
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I've made my feelings on this matter perfectly clear earlier in this thread. I don't believe it but he does and that's what we do here is discuss practices. Good, bad or completely out there. As long as he's not doing it to my car I can sleep with the claims he makes. ;)
 
GearHead_1 said:
I've made my feelings on this matter perfectly clear earlier in this thread. I don't believe it but he does and that's what we do here is discuss practices. Good, bad or completely out there. As long as he's not doing it to my car I can sleep with the claims he makes.
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:lol2:
 
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