Presidential Detailed: 2005 Rolls Royce PHANTOM

prsdntial_dtail

prsdntial_dtail

New member
I was contacted by a local Limousine company to fix some obvious issues on the paint of their Rolls Royce they had just purchased used from Miami. I was informed there were buffing trails, etc so knowing that Rolls Royce paint is generaly on the softer side I thought I would have it somewhat easy on a nice car. Boy was I wrong! We wont even mention the what seemed like 4 foot tall door panels and the length a little over 19 feet! Once I started the decontamination process I began finding little clues(orange peel, unfinished sanding, etc) that the car had been repainted at some time, only to find out the entire driver side of the car had been painted after finding the blend spots over the rear A-Pillar and front fender. I had my work cut out for me.

Wash and Decontamination Process:
BLACKFIRE Gloss Shampoo Two-Bucket Wash With Grit Guards
BLACKFIRE PolyClay II Detailing Clay with BLACKFIRE Detailing Clay Bar Lubricant
Two-Bucket Wash with Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitts
Blow Dried/Big Blue III Drying Towel

Wheels:
P21S Gel Wheel Cleaner
Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitts(dedicated to wheels only)
E-Z Detail Brush

Paint Correction:
3M Automotive Performance "Green" Tape
Meguiar's M105 Ultra Cut Compound / Lake Country Purple Foamed Wool Pad
via Makita 9227 Rotary Polisher
Meguiar's M205 Ultra Finishing Polish / Lake Country Orange FLAT 6.5" Foam Pad
via Meguiar's G110 Dual-Action Machine Polisher
Zaino AIO On All Door Shuts
50/50 of 91% IPA/Distilled Water
Dragon Fibre Microfiber Towels

LSP:
TWO coats of BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection via G110 using a Lake Country Flat 6.5 inch Gold Concours Finishing Pad
TWO coats of BLACKFIRE Midnight Sun Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax


BEFORE:
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The interior had already been cleaned so I did no work to the interior.
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Hard to reach area.
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On to the real damage..Series of Before/After shots, none of which have had LSP applied yet.

Wheel Arch Before.
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Wheel Arch After.
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Rear Pillar Before.
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Here you can see the haziness from the buffing trails left even without proper light.
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Rear Pillar After.
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Passenger Doors After.
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Passenger Front Fender Before. Sorry No Afters.
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I wasnt able to capture the defects for the top panels with my camera, so I didnt bother taking any, except this one taped off to protect the chrome trim and edges.
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Haha, yeah I could imagine a full paint correction on a suburban wouldnt be too fun either. the thing with the Rolls Royce though is that its almost ALL paint with little windows. It adds up quick!
 
It sure looks nice in the end. I think I would get rid of my Hated HHR if I owned that vehicle. OF course I do not know where I would get the money to hire the chauffer to drive me around. It would look good in the driveway even if one did not drive it.
 
I have no doubt that the finish is much improved. I mean no offense in this comment but it does seem that the pictures "play" to what to what you are trying to illustrate. Using the light can both make things bad or better than they actually are. You put a ton of work into documenting this detail. I would suggest that in the future you leave the lights and camera in the same position when really trying to show your work. That is very difficult to do when outside, particularly when one starts on a vehicle in the morning and finishes in the evening but when using Halogens it is easier to do so. OK, stepping down from the soap box.
 
GearHead_1 said:
I have no doubt that the finish is much improved. I mean no offense in this comment but it does seem that the pictures "play" to what to what you are trying to illustrate. Using the light can both make things bad or better than they actually are. You put a ton of work into documenting this detail. I would suggest that in the future you leave the lights and camera in the same position when really trying to show your work. That is very difficult to do when outside, particularly when one starts on a vehicle in the morning and finishes in the evening but when using Halogens it is easier to do so. OK, stepping down from the soap box.
Click to expand...

Well, as you said above, it is nearly impossible to get the same exact shot even with the halogens. Say for instance you have to place the halogen in spot X, to even get the defects to show up you have to play around with angles and focus(this changes with every shot you take). Now, say you get the light and the angle where you want it, well more often then not it is entirely in your way or your working directly under a heat lamp. Not as easy as it sounds to get a "perfect" before/after shot, which is why I take multiple shots from all different angles to make sure I get the point across that it is indeed corrected. :surrender
 
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