Ford fusion bumper clear coat pealing

G

GSORK

New member
Does anyonye have a recommended clear coat spray i can repair it with. This is my sons first real newish car and it bothers him.
Thanks Gary
 
GSORK, I don't have an answer for a specific product but would suggest if you want to D-I-Y you might check for a local automotive paint supplier in your area and check with them. I have never attempted a repair such as this and don't have any idea as to all of the required steps, but I supsect you need some other supplies (ie. sanding papers etc.) along w/the paint. Hopefully someone else in the forum has done this type of repair before and can provide some helpful information.

If you perform this task, it would be interesting if you did a photo log showing your process and results. BTW, welcome to Detail City.
 
Bring it to the dealership and tell them to fix it under warranty. No reason for paint to be peeling at 30,000 miles on a 2 year old car.
 
I'd definitely make a warranty claim. Shouldn't be a reason that a factory paint job is peeling after two years (unless you or your son have done something to contribute).
 
A good example of a-s-s-u-m-e :redface: I assumed that possibility was already ruled out. GSORK, that would be my first call. Let your local Ford service rep take a look at it and possibly ask for a regional service rep get involved if you don't get help at the local dealership level.
 
You say the car is newish to your son. Are we to take it he didn't purchase it new ? If not the history of the vehicle comes into play. Ever been hit or repaired ? Maybe even repaired when still at factory or on dealers lot. More info is needed to make a informed decision. Paul S
 
2old2change said:
You say the car is newish to your son. Are we to take it he didn't purchase it new ? If not the history of the vehicle comes into play. Ever been hit or repaired ? Maybe even repaired when still at factory or on dealers lot. More info is needed to make a informed decision. Paul S
Click to expand...


Carfax.
 
don't think the dealer will do it, as I think you are out of warranty.....it's not a huge exp for a body shop - maybe a couple hundred...

I've fixed it before and got it to look acceptable on some old Hondas that lose their clear regularly:
damp/wet/hand sand with 3000/2000
clean and rattle can spray with duragloss clear
sand again 3000
rotary with two compounds: heavy and finish compounds
rotary w/ polish
then wax...

and I repeat - this will make it look acceptable, but to make it look perfect, the whole panel should be re-shot by a body shop...
 
Here's an experience, and some thoughts-questions of those of you who might know better than I......

About 2-1/2 years ago, on my 2001 Kia Spectra GS, I was beginning to experience clear coat failure on the front, and rear bumpers. Typical peeling, Here;s just a brief story before I get to my point, and some questions.

With one major hearbreaking incident with this car, where the goofy kid across the street ran into the front of the car with his bike when I mistakenly left the car parked in front of the house overnight, and the hood and fender looked like somebody hit the hood with a sledgehammer, a few more dings, that were in the car when I bought it (used) and some more, compliments of the supermarket goons, I just couldn't see throwing gobs of money into this car, a daily driver, which I figured would get some more anyway.

To fix the bike damage, I had to drive to Albuqueque to find a paintless dent repair person, a 500 mile round trip, and the fix wasn't perfect, but a lot better.

Anyway, to both front, and rear bumpesr, I wet sanded both with 1000, then 2000, got the paint smooth, prep solvent, an alcohol wipe down, and mask and spray. Used Duplicolor Clear Enamel.

The job looked very nice, not perfect, but 100 times better than before. One had to look awful close to see it was a shadetree mechanic fix.

But, the repair did not last, no matter how many times I coated it with wax, and not just any wax, I used Collinite DoubleCoat Paste.

I'm not sure of this at this point, and am unsure whether the failure again was either due to not getting good adhesion, or just a failure again to the scourge of this desert sun here?

So, again, to get to the point, do you folks possibly think a hi-tech uber expensive sealant product might have possibly aided the longevity of such a cheap fix?

Let's say something like Opti-Coat, or GTechniq EXO? Could something like these products prolong the life of simple rattle can sprays?

I was going to start a seperate thread, titled "Rattle Cans and Sealants" somewhere, but figured this might be a good thread to ask such a question?
Thanks, Mark
 
MarkD said:
Here's an experience, and some thoughts-questions of those of you who might know better than I......

About 2-1/2 years ago, on my 2001 Kia Spectra GS, I was beginning to experience clear coat failure on the front, and rear bumpers. Typical peeling, Here;s just a brief story before I get to my point, and some questions.

With one major hearbreaking incident with this car, where the goofy kid across the street ran into the front of the car with his bike when I mistakenly left the car parked in front of the house overnight, and the hood and fender looked like somebody hit the hood with a sledgehammer, a few more dings, that were in the car when I bought it (used) and some more, compliments of the supermarket goons, I just couldn't see throwing gobs of money into this car, a daily driver, which I figured would get some more anyway.

To fix the bike damage, I had to drive to Albuqueque to find a paintless dent repair person, a 500 mile round trip, and the fix wasn't perfect, but a lot better.

Anyway, to both front, and rear bumpesr, I wet sanded both with 1000, then 2000, got the paint smooth, prep solvent, an alcohol wipe down, and mask and spray. Used Duplicolor Clear Enamel.

The job looked very nice, not perfect, but 100 times better than before. One had to look awful close to see it was a shadetree mechanic fix.

But, the repair did not last, no matter how many times I coated it with wax, and not just any wax, I used Collinite DoubleCoat Paste.

I'm not sure of this at this point, and am unsure whether the failure again was either due to not getting good adhesion, or just a failure again to the scourge of this desert sun here?

So, again, to get to the point, do you folks possibly think a hi-tech uber expensive sealant product might have possibly aided the longevity of such a cheap fix?

Let's say something like Opti-Coat, or GTechniq EXO? Could something like these products prolong the life of simple rattle can sprays?

I was going to start a seperate thread, titled "Rattle Cans and Sealants" somewhere, but figured this might be a good thread to ask such a question?
Thanks, Mark
Click to expand...

Hi Mark, I was looking at the different sprays at AZ one Saturday and recall some sprays had a flex additive for painting bumpers but not sure if they had a flex/bumper clearcoat spray.
 
MarkD said:
Here's an experience, and some thoughts-questions of those of you who might know better than I......

About 2-1/2 years ago, on my 2001 Kia Spectra GS, I was beginning to experience clear coat failure on the front, and rear bumpers. Typical peeling, Here;s just a brief story before I get to my point, and some questions.

With one major hearbreaking incident with this car, where the goofy kid across the street ran into the front of the car with his bike when I mistakenly left the car parked in front of the house overnight, and the hood and fender looked like somebody hit the hood with a sledgehammer, a few more dings, that were in the car when I bought it (used) and some more, compliments of the supermarket goons, I just couldn't see throwing gobs of money into this car, a daily driver, which I figured would get some more anyway.

To fix the bike damage, I had to drive to Albuqueque to find a paintless dent repair person, a 500 mile round trip, and the fix wasn't perfect, but a lot better.

Anyway, to both front, and rear bumpesr, I wet sanded both with 1000, then 2000, got the paint smooth, prep solvent, an alcohol wipe down, and mask and spray. Used Duplicolor Clear Enamel.

The job looked very nice, not perfect, but 100 times better than before. One had to look awful close to see it was a shadetree mechanic fix.

But, the repair did not last, no matter how many times I coated it with wax, and not just any wax, I used Collinite DoubleCoat Paste.

I'm not sure of this at this point, and am unsure whether the failure again was either due to not getting good adhesion, or just a failure again to the scourge of this desert sun here?

So, again, to get to the point, do you folks possibly think a hi-tech uber expensive sealant product might have possibly aided the longevity of such a cheap fix?

Let's say something like Opti-Coat, or GTechniq EXO? Could something like these products prolong the life of simple rattle can sprays?

I was going to start a seperate thread, titled "Rattle Cans and Sealants" somewhere, but figured this might be a good thread to ask such a question?
Thanks, Mark
Click to expand...
I do alot of "touch up" work and from your discription I think you sanded the paint to smooth for paint to stick. When ever I respray a bumper I sand it down with 600 then use primer sealer(gray can) the hit that with 800 then color then clear. And I have done all of this out of rattle cans before but you get much better result if you at least spray the clear out of a gun because you need it to be pretty thick. With rattle can clear you probably need like somewhere in the number of 20 coats about 3-4 min apart depending on the temp outside. Hope this helps if you have any questions feel free to ask.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top