Stubborn water spots!

Tarios

Detailing=Artwork
In reference to my on going thread about where to start on this sweet- vortech blown 92 5.0 litre beauty.
http://www.detailcity.org/forums/exterior-car-care/27060-just-not-sure-where-start-one.html

After SSR2.5 (Orange pad)
SSR3 (Yellow pad)
redoing SSR2.5 (Orange pad)
SSR1 (White polish pad)
I still have water spots on the roof of the car..

I'm prepping the car for the full Zaino treatment -
This stuff was unreal on my last 92 GT - Alays looked liek it came out of paint. (right off in collision-no one hurt+)

This is more of a Zaino test to see if it will actually bring back deep shine and clarity to this car's finish.
The prep-steps I have already done have made a MAJOR improvement..I mean really amazing..But not deep gloss enough - not clear enough..

Anyhow..I'm at a loss for steps..every single product I have used says water spot remover - now can it be that the water spots are so induced into the clear coat..[because we all know it is not the actual paint we are working on]..(I hope I'm right on that one)
that they can never be removed?

I`m thinkiong PB ProPolish worked very long and well...I just find this product has some awesome abilities..
Does anyone recommend anything else before I strip with Dawn and start Zaino?
 
In reference to my on going thread about where to start on this sweet- vortech blown 92 5.0 litre beauty.
http://www.detailcity.org/forums/exterior-car-care/27060-just-not-sure-where-start-one.html

After SSR2.5 (Orange pad)
SSR3 (Yellow pad)
redoing SSR2.5 (Orange pad)
SSR1 (White polish pad)
I still have water spots on the roof of the car..

I'm prepping the car for the full Zaino treatment -
This stuff was unreal on my last 92 GT - Alays looked liek it came out of paint. (right off in collision-no one hurt+)

This is more of a Zaino test to see if it will actually bring back deep shine and clarity to this car's finish.
The prep-steps I have already done have made a MAJOR improvement..I mean really amazing..But not deep gloss enough - not clear enough..

Anyhow..I'm at a loss for steps..every single product I have used says water spot remover - now can it be that the water spots are so induced into the clear coat..[because we all know it is not the actual paint we are working on]..(I hope I'm right on that one)
that they can never be removed?

I`m thinkiong PB ProPolish worked very long and well...I just find this product has some awesome abilities..
Does anyone recommend anything else before I strip with Dawn and start Zaino?

:inspector::inspector::inspector::inspector::inspector::notme::notme::passout::passout::crazy2::crazy2::dunno::dunno:






It seems funny you think the "Z" product will do the job. I smell a strange odor on the "PITCH FOR Z"

IF you have used all the steps you say you must be down in the paint by now imho. Harsh pads and harsh products from what you said you have used. I don't want to insult you but I cant believe you have not touched any of the spots as of now.

I guess try the PP and tell us whats up after. Good luck...:howdy
 
Water spots can be "etched" under and into the clear, and sometimes bad enough that they won't go away without a repaint. You might could try wetsanding an area and polishing it out to see if that helps any on the waterspots.
 
That sounds like some serious water spots and I am surprised that SSR3+Yellow has not done anything to them. I agree with Jared that wetsanding might be your only option besides a respray. After all those different polishes though I would be afraid of wetsanding.. If you can, gauge the paint before hand.
 
Ok first ..NJ..by far and I mean by far am I pitching Zaino. Are you nuts? I live in Montreal Quebec..people here have no idea what Zaino is and what on earth and who on earth would I be pitching it too..a bunch of guys on this forum, that know this business and the techinques/products used in it inside out?? Ya that makes sense.

No I'm not vouching for Zaino..or pitching it or anything of the sort..I run a private wedding photography business my friend..please don't assume nonesense like that. First of all, I use PB more than anything. I just like trying new stuff..I am a big fan of Klasse AIO and UPP..great combo..and I have used many different applications of my Xterra..(DD car).

Actually go and check the other reply I gave to a guy just looking for beginner advice..tell me where I mention Z to him. Anyhow..I tell you why I'm expecting Z to do a lot for depth and gloss...

Because I used it religiously (if I may say that) on my smashed 1992 GT and it was sick slick- However- th3 swirls and the imperfections were always there--under halogen lamps at the service station..I can see the swirl marks..so No I don't believe it does what it says - and is says it very clearly that it removes swirl marks etc. I doubt very highly it will do anything on the waterspots..Believe me if it does..You 'll be the fiorst to know..But of the PB line up I used didn't remove them..there's no way Z will.

The car I am prepping is a FL car and was probably very badly maintained as far as wax care and polishing..it's lost its true depth and shiney gloss..its 'wet' look is gone..
Yes its white and when washed its clean..but man no shine. Now with the steps I did (no piant is not touched) it looks awesome..but when I look at the light bulb reflection in the hood...it's not crystal clear..

So now that I know a lot more than I did when I staretd the orginal GT back in 200, which was silver by the way..I want to see if a good prep and a good Z application can give this car that wet look, that gloss shine that Zaino says it does. I have 2 bottles and just picked up the ZFX kit so I don't have to wait for drying time. I want to see if it does do anything significant.
I think it will create a very crystal like shell - a really shiney bonded hard crystal like shell..but beneath it..I believe all these imperfections -even though the steps I did made them better..will still show..just like they did on the silver GT.

And BY far am I even near the paint-I didn't start working with the PC last week. And I didn't put 40lbs of pressure on PC while it was working. The SSR3 is harsh but I didn't use it to the extreme level of stripping down to paint...please..you're not insulting me but close to it. The car looks great..smooth silky and very soft. The only down to paint that this car has- is when a friend 'body shop owner' was removing the PAINTED pinstripe (yes some previous owner striped the car with paint) went to far in the front end and removed the paint clear..but he'll fix it..there's nothing else but that.

If the water spots as the last 2 members stated are in that imbedded condition, then I ll just leave it..I don't want to put too much into it ($). They are barely visible..but then again..white doesn't divulge too much on the imperfections.

Lets not forget this is a 17 year old car - if the FL sun beat on it for that long without good and correct protection...things are pretty well written in stone.

I took some pics before but they aren't really that good due to it being white and the location of the sun..I didn't have time to set up really before shots-but I ll post what I have.
I ll take some more pics and try and show some of the missing shine...

Thanks for the help...


I have been onoy using PB products on my 2002 Xterra (not Zaino NJ ;) ) and the gloss on this thing is sick...the depth , refraction is unreal...amazing stuff..that PB EX-P is my favorite. No use in outtign Zaino on a daily driver - thats for sure.. too $.
 
Water spots can be "etched" under and into the clear, and sometimes bad enough that they won't go away without a repaint. You might could try wetsanding an area and polishing it out to see if that helps any on the waterspots.

Nah nah..I won't be going that far. I ll do the best prep I can. And see what Zaino does. If it doesn't do what I expect - then I think I ll move onto Wolfgang or Souveran (sp) products..their waxes sound amazing.
 
Without pics I'm leaning towards what Russ and JP are summising in that they may be etched into the clear and you'll need to cut it down to remove them. Having said that and hearing what you've tried so far I might want to try M105 - has a pretty substantial cut and finishes out nice.

I've seen some nasty water spots here in FL and if left to dwell they are vicous to remove. I'd also recommend Z5Pro if you have it. Layer a few and they may be slightly less noticeable if you can't get it 100%.

Good luck and Go Habs!
 
The way you posted it sounded like a cure all for everything known to man kind.:wall

Do have a nice day "eh"...
 
Nah nah..I won't be going that far. I ll do the best prep I can. And see what Zaino does. If it doesn't do what I expect - then I think I ll move onto Wolfgang or Souveran (sp) products..their waxes sound amazing.

Could be the paint is just worn out. Bad batch of clear? You said under the lights you are not seeing the pop you want right? If the paint after correction is not crystal clear you will never get full glassy reflection out of any product period. "You cant make a silk purse out of a sow's ear" :wall :howdy Its the corrected Base finished product that gives the look we all strive for. You gotta get the base fixed before you will have the crystal for the wax to inhance.:inspector:

Hope this helps, its only common sence "eh".:surrender
 
Could be the paint is just worn out. Bad batch of clear? You said under the lights you are not seeing the pop you want right? If the paint after correction is not crystal clear you will never get full glassy reflection out of any product period. "You cant make a silk purse out of a sow's ear" :wall :howdy Its the corrected Base finished product that gives the look we all strive for. You gotta get the base fixed before you will have the crystal for the wax to inhance.:inspector:

Hope this helps, its only common sence "eh".:surrender

Ya I know what you mean with that.
As far as photos..I'll post some late this afternoon..
A few before (which I took very quickly) and I'l do my best to capture the results with prooper exposure and light...

I think I'm being a little hard on the issue of how bad it may be..
Maybe I'm not being objective enough..The car does shine..its the up close look of the clear that is the issue. Hard to explain.. Look for pics tonight..I really want you guys to see it.
Just to say..when I open the garage and I look at the car..It pops..yes it does look clean and a lot better than before these steps with the PB products were done.

Im will look into what was recommended here..
I will definitely try a little more work on it and see how BEST I can get it...
 
Without pics I'm leaning towards what Russ and JP are summising in that they may be etched into the clear and you'll need to cut it down to remove them. Having said that and hearing what you've tried so far I might want to try M105 - has a pretty substantial cut and finishes out nice.

I've seen some nasty water spots here in FL and if left to dwell they are vicous to remove. I'd also recommend Z5Pro if you have it. Layer a few and they may be slightly less noticeable if you can't get it 100%.

Good luck and Go Habs!


Yes I have some Z5 pro from the last batch I was using on the silver GT...
I ll definitely get into the Z stuff once the prep is final..
Thanks a lot guys for all the help..
 
Based on everything that I've read here so far, can you feel these water spots on the surface? or in certain lights you can see etched spots in the clear?

You've been aggressive enough on the clear so far and that should have removed what is on the surface. I just have to guess that its etching, that wouldn't surprise me based on the year and all
 
Based on everything that I've read here so far, can you feel these water spots on the surface? or in certain lights you can see etched spots in the clear?

You've been aggressive enough on the clear so far and that should have removed what is on the surface. I just have to guess that its etching, that wouldn't surprise me based on the year and all

No definitely not apparent when touching..the car is now super smoothe and slick..the whole surface feels very clean indeed..
I think they are etched..from the way you guys explained it.
I don't have a super macro lens so I ll try photographing and cropping as much as possible to 100% on those spots in the photos this evening.
 
No definitely not apparent when touching..the car is now super smoothe and slick..the whole surface feels very clean indeed..
I think they are etched..from the way you guys explained it.
I don't have a super macro lens so I ll try photographing and cropping as much as possible to 100% on those spots in the photos this evening.

That's what I thought at this point based on the year, I would think twice about wet sanding. You can go threw the paint pretty fast as long as you are OK with it then I would just live with it
 
Yes..like I mentioned earlier..
A friend in a body shop wetsanded teh pin stripe that was on the car..and he went through a few places...right to the paint..the funny thing , the pin stripe was so embedded into the paint, I mean under the clear..like it was absorbed..they were surprised..I guess the FL sun fried the pin stripe on the car..

Anyhow...just to say...It doesn't bother me that much..it's a fun car, looks awsome and with the steps to follow..I am confident it will beem..I'm most probably going to go with the M105 before starting with the Zaino process...
 
Photos are up guys in another thread...I didnt want to make this one longer and longer..It may also be useful for future reference...
 
Yes..like I mentioned earlier..
A friend in a body shop wetsanded teh pin stripe that was on the car..and he went through a few places...right to the paint..the funny thing , the pin stripe was so embedded into the paint, I mean under the clear..like it was absorbed..they were surprised..I guess the FL sun fried the pin stripe on the car..

Anyhow...just to say...It doesn't bother me that much..it's a fun car, looks awsome and with the steps to follow..I am confident it will beem..I'm most probably going to go with the M105 before starting with the Zaino process...

Ok forgive me if I missed something as I only had time to scan over your posts. It sounds like to me your car has been repainted with your remarks about the pinstripe. Repaints can be tough to deal with.

There is no need to go crazy with a bunch of steps. I'm betting some 1500 sand paper would knock out any water spot etching you have. Follow that with some M105. Follow that with SSR1 if needed. Then your ready to use an LSP.

Test spot an area first so you know what results you will get before doing the entire car. Make sure you are getting the best results before moving on to the next step. I had a guy working for me a couple years back that would aggravate me because he would do all of his wet sanding at once quickly and then would go through all the other steps to finish it out before evaluating whether his wet sanding got the results he was looking for.

What kind of machine are you using?
 
Ok forgive me if I missed something as I only had time to scan over your posts. It sounds like to me your car has been repainted with your remarks about the pinstripe. Repaints can be tough to deal with.

There is no need to go crazy with a bunch of steps. I'm betting some 1500 sand paper would knock out any water spot etching you have. Follow that with some M105. Follow that with SSR1 if needed. Then your ready to use an LSP.

Test spot an area first so you know what results you will get before doing the entire car. Make sure you are getting the best results before moving on to the next step. I had a guy working for me a couple years back that would aggravate me because he would do all of his wet sanding at once quickly and then would go through all the other steps to finish it out before evaluating whether his wet sanding got the results he was looking for.

What kind of machine are you using?

I'm using a PC.
Ok so you mean..because the pinstripe was undr the clearcoat..you think the whole car may have been repainted??
Well come to think of it..the fried at the body shop did some in depth inspection when I brought to him and him as a painter, decalred this to be OEM paint...for the simple reason that no one repainting a car would remove a lot of small panels and screws, so seeing that there is no 'new' paint or any overspray whatsoever around teh whole car..we are comfortable in saying the paint is original..Also my driverss door molding is tarnished a little yellow.

Could it be that the guy whp ut that silly freakin pin stripe, also put a base of clear coat on it...
But like I said..we were surprised how in some areas, the pin stripe had gone into the paint...
I should take a photo fo that as well...

Troy did you see the photos in my other thread..?
 
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