Poorboys question
- Thread starter aarolar
- Start date
How hard is it to get a ready to wax finish from ssr2.5?Depends on how hard/soft the paint you're working on is. I've had micromarring while polishing a Nighthawk Black Pearl Acura MDX with 2.5 and a polishing pad, but most of the time (using a polishing pad), it's pretty much ready. If you're looking for maximum gloss, I'd follow with a finishing polish on a finishing pad.
budman3
Detail time!
What he said. If you work it in properly and use a polishing pad you can finish off LSP ready. Again, it all depends on the vehicle.
Pockets
@PoorboysWorld.com
Right on man :rockon
I usually like to follow it up with a finishing product (PP, PWS, SSR1) something like that just to get the finish that much smoother and slick :bigups
cwcad
New Normal
From what you have described it would be a natural thing for me to go to SSR 1 or PP with a polishing pad and PC or rotary to take care of the micro marring of which you speak.
Bunky
Detailing Gnosis
In regards to PP, it is listed as more versatile and pad dependent.
Pro Polish will give you a clearer and brighter finish to start with, and SSR1 will be a little more glossier ...the cleaing ability is about equal, but Pro Polish is a bit more versitile in that you can use different pads to achieve different results. SSR1 should only be used with either a polishing pad or finishing pad, never with a cutting pad.
I know PP can be used as a paint clear but obviously seems to have some corrections. I have an opportunity to get a bottle in a trade and I was looking for more justification.
Stephan
Mr Detailer
perhaps you didn't break down the polish enough and you still had some left on the paint.
budman3
Detail time!
Here are a bunch of tips that I have compiled after reading and using SSR2.5. Be sure to visit blkyukon's web site, he has great pictures showing the breakdown stages of SSR2.5 and when the polish has fully broken down, ready for removal:
-Always use a polishing pad (or orange light cut ... if careful) with SSR2.5 (it'll remove a ton of swirls, if not do another pass or bump up to another product)
-DO NOT PRIME WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN THE PRODUCT ITSELF (very crucial)
-Apply a thin bead of product around the pad for each section of the car or several dots around the pad.
-Spread it at whatever speed you want, work it in at Speed 6.... don't be afraid of speed 6.
-Work it in until very clear (may take a few minutes... see pics in link below)
-If the product begins to build up on the pad, brush off with stiff brush or wipe off excess polish with a terry towel
-Wipe off
-Admire no swirls
-Go to finer polish (if needed- with the polishing pad you most likely don't NEED to follow up but it wouldn't hurt).
-Do not use a new pad that hasn't been washed- Pads come from the factory with small foam particles left in the pad that look like product dust.
The orange pad will dry out the product faster so I usually use a white polishing pad. However, recently I used SSR2.5 with an orange light cut pad and was able to go right to wax.
blkyukon has pictures of what the SSR 2.5 looks like through its polishing stages:
Polish Break Down Stages - Poorboys SSR2.5
*You may need to tweak your techniques when using SSR2.5 in different weather conditions. The product is still usable in the sun but workability will diminish slightly and it's more apt to dry out faster.
-Always use a polishing pad (or orange light cut ... if careful) with SSR2.5 (it'll remove a ton of swirls, if not do another pass or bump up to another product)
-DO NOT PRIME WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN THE PRODUCT ITSELF (very crucial)
-Apply a thin bead of product around the pad for each section of the car or several dots around the pad.
-Spread it at whatever speed you want, work it in at Speed 6.... don't be afraid of speed 6.
-Work it in until very clear (may take a few minutes... see pics in link below)
-If the product begins to build up on the pad, brush off with stiff brush or wipe off excess polish with a terry towel
-Wipe off
-Admire no swirls
-Go to finer polish (if needed- with the polishing pad you most likely don't NEED to follow up but it wouldn't hurt).
-Do not use a new pad that hasn't been washed- Pads come from the factory with small foam particles left in the pad that look like product dust.
The orange pad will dry out the product faster so I usually use a white polishing pad. However, recently I used SSR2.5 with an orange light cut pad and was able to go right to wax.
blkyukon has pictures of what the SSR 2.5 looks like through its polishing stages:
Polish Break Down Stages - Poorboys SSR2.5
*You may need to tweak your techniques when using SSR2.5 in different weather conditions. The product is still usable in the sun but workability will diminish slightly and it's more apt to dry out faster.