Garage Queens and ceramics

S

Sevillian

New member
I have two garage queens, or metal mistresses, as the wife refers to them. Old Cadillacs; one is an all-original 26k time capsule with 60 year old original black lacquer; the other was repainted a few years ago with modern 2 stage paint. Both are garaged and come out only for local shows (assuming we ever have those again) and occasional cruising. I typically give them a thorough detailing every spring, before the season starts, and touched up with spray detailer and maybe a coat of wax, the shine lasts until the next spring, although this year, for various reasons, including moving and the pandemic, I have yet to do the "spring detail." I`ve been happy with the regimen I`ve been using- waterless wash and M07 followed by Souverain on the black lacquer, and waterless wash, Klasse AOI followed by 2 coats of Klasse SG and a coat of Souverain on the newer paint. Does anybody want to try and sell me on switching to a ceramic product? If so, which one? Keep in mind that the original lacquer is thin in places, and I am really trying to avoid unnecessary abrasion on that car.
 
What color is the 2-stage repaint?

Since you don’t need durability, any ceramic-infused item could be used. I might recommend Kamikaze Infinity Wax, Pinnacle Synergy or Polish Angel Carnaubaflocken series liquid waxes.

Or you can go with a beauty spray like Polish Angel High Gloss or Carnauba Arts sprays. Or Cosmic. Or Kamikaze Overcoat.

The advantage of these products over a true coating is that there’s less pressure during the prep and application stage. They are easier.

The advantage of any coating or ceramic-infused product, for you, would be less dust accumulation, and possibly better resistance to tiny swirls when you do have to wipe down for a show. The latter is a speculation, but a wipe down with less dust accumulation is a given and obviously a benefit. And assuming the paint is in stellar shape, you don’t need to use abrasives to apply any of these. Iron X and a coating prep polish would go the trick and each year or more when you re-apply you can likely keep doing the same.
 
From what I have read, ceramics don`t do well on single stage paints. For the other any ceramic would do. It will be up to you if you choose to try one. You may not need one with X amount of years claim but rather a coating lite like Gyeon CanCoat or Cquartz Lite. The reason I would consider going this route is that those who take their cars to shows tend to love their cars too much by wiping them down so much which can induce swirls.
 
Mine ceramic coated with the gloss shop. I find it way better for the most part. I touch the car way less which Is a great thing. Pre rinsing with the hose removes most of the dust/dirt from the car. It removes 90% of the bugs. What bugs are left come off with just a very light touch with the wash mitts. I have done just rinse and blow dry, and get compliments on how great it looks. It`s perfect for me and my wants, and needs.
 
Thanks. The car with the 2-stage repaint is Champagne metallic, and yes, dust is definitely an issue; more so on the black car, of course. But that`s life with a black car. My wipe down, based on past recommendations here, is Pinnacle Crystal Mist, and so far no swirl issues. But anything to reduce touching is good. It sounds like I should try a ceramic on the 2-stage car first, and see how that goes.
 
I would keep using the "old tech stuff" on the older one because it has "older-tech" paint. The old lacquers from back then are completely different from today`s b/c paint and *IMO* oughta be treated the same way they have been (successfully) for so many years.

Remember that the "feed the paint" idea is *NOT* BS when it comes to older paints the way it is with more modern stuff.

I`d never coat my Jag`s ss lacquer, that`s for sure! IF it wears, it wears...I`d consider it "patina". Older lacquers (moreso than older enamels) simply don`t last forever in their original condition; they age, some better/worse than others. And no, IME once those older paints are "all worn away" and the primer is exposed, things don`t go to [Perdition] immediately..they can stay "gee, look where it`s worn through a little bit"-OK indefinitely if you keep taking proper care. Those paintjobs just don`t stay *perfect* no matter what you do, even if hermetically stored they`ll age, just the nature of the paint.

Since many people like arguments that, uhm...appeal to authority...note that (AFAIK) Mike Phillips still uses the M07 + wax approach on old original-paint cars.

On the b/c car, IMO there`s absolutely *NOTHING* wrong with using the Klasse twins as long as you like how it looks with them (plus that topper, which probably improves that look a little). Nothing wrong with coating it either if you want to go that route...
 
I`ve coated several single stage vehicles...it can tend to be blotchy on some SS paints. I prefer to use a wax on them, especially if they are limited use/show cars. And it`s very rewarding to wax a vehicle!

I`d say keep doing what your doing if you are happy with the end results!
 
Accumulator and Sizzle-you are confirming my thinking on the SS car; my current regimen is based on Mike`s M07 approach and input from others, including from Accumulator, a couple of years back. I don`t do the M07 "soak" every year, because the paint still feels pretty slick and healthy, even after a year has passed from the prior treatment, but I do a more conventional M07 treatment to keep the paint "fed".

I think I`m going to stick with my current routine for now on these cars, and start learning about ceramics on the daily drivers, which live a much less pampered life.
 
Sevillian- I`m glad you`re not gonna try fixing what`s not broken ;)

wannafbody brought up an interesting idea with the M26. Much as I simply *love* Souveran, I can see where he`s going with that recommendation...might even lean that way myself on some colors (and black is one of `em).

Sizzlechest- Yeah, that "blotchiness" is the kind of thing I`d expect...the nature of old lacquer will result in uneven "soaking in" with some areas doing better/worse than others. The kind of thing that M07 + Wax will help even out, if only in overall appearance.
 
I did the two-stage paint on my `60 Eldorado this week, and it came out real nice. Of course the paint on that car is only part of the job; its easy to spend a day just doing the chrome and stainless trim, and that doesn`t count the grille. Next up is the original black lacquer on my `61 Fleetwood. While the paint still feels pretty smooth, its been about 16 months since it was last hit with anything besides detail spray. Do you guys think I need to do a paint prep/cleaner, or can I go straight to waterless wash and M07?
 
Sevillian- I myself would be hoping/expecting to do OK with the simpler "just refresh it" approach, but I`d still be keeping my eyes peeled for signs that I need to do the Paint Cleaning after all. Different people define "Garage Queen" differently, but that`s how I`m reading this situation. Hey, I merely refresh the LSP on our Daily Drivers for *ages* on end, and I don`t mean just a year or two.
 
Sevillian- Heh heh, you have me fantasizing over Cadillacs again :o Can you get R12 for the AC or did you have to switch to R134a (and if the latter, does it work OK? My conversions never did..)? Sorry to take this off-topic, but a fellow Autopian I`m friends with needs to get his Caddy`s AC fixed one of these days and it`s a R12 car.
 
Accumulator said:
Sevillian- Heh heh, you have me fantasizing over Cadillacs again :o Can you get R12 for the AC or did you have to switch to R134a (and if the latter, does it work OK? My conversions never did..)? Sorry to take this off-topic, but a fellow Autopian I`m friends with needs to get his Caddy`s AC fixed one of these days and it`s a R12 car.
Click to expand...


i have seen R12 show up on some sales platforms. One not that long ago in-fact. Just keep a eye out .



edit: infact this one is $125. 7 cans 1 dye, 2 oil. Not but 30 minutes from me.A7725EBA-D6CE-4401-86DC-C52DAF81DCE2.jpeg

There`s actually a ton of it on fleebay.
 
Accumulator- Sorry, but I can’t be much help on the a/c. The ‘60 has a/c and needed a new compressor a few years ago, at which time we switched it to R-134. It cools pretty well when it’s working, but I’ve had trouble keeping it working due to issues unrelated to the refrigerant, and frankly, here in the Bay Area, I don’t really need it much, although I’ve missed it this week with the heat and humidity we’ve had. But if I lived somewhere that was consistently hot and humid, I might feel differently about switching. It seems like many in the Cad crowd do prefer R12 as long as their system doesn’t have leaks and they can find shops willing to handle it. The ‘61, despite being a Fleetwood, is a relative stripper as Fleetwoods go; no a/c (but 8 power windows).
 
Coleroad- Yeah, that`s what my guys have done so far too, but it hasn`t always been available when I need it :(

Heh heh, maybe they (or I) just need to try harder :D SO many cars I like are R12....

Sevillian- Hey, never woulda thunk it about a Fleetwood without AC!

I`ve had some awfully pricey R134a conversions done, but *NONE* of them were even remotely close to the R12 setups. I guess I`m spoiled at this point, but I simply gotta have good climate control or I`ll drive something else.

Lucky you that it`s not a problem...being able to truly *enjoy* the vehicles does matter with these not-just-transportation ones! Heh heh, and to think I grew up without AC...
 
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