Wheel coating?

[Desertnate]

DesertNate- Yeah, wheels with lots of nooks/crannies/etc. are my Big Issue with using a Wheel Coating Just a Quick-(conventional) LSPing takes hours on some of `em and Coatings raise that to a whole `nother level.

I don`t think the coatings would take any longer than your beloved FK1000. Best case, since the coatings a liquid, they might actually be easier/faster as it would get into apply and buff out of tight spots. My wheels are a very simple design and really don`t take very long. Any two-piece wheel with those little bolts, or some intricate design would be a royal pain.

The cleaning/prep might be harder on older wheels. I can see yours being surgically clean most of the time and not hard to prep. Others who don`t keep on top of things would have a bigger job on their hands.

 

[The Guz]

Any tips for application with all the intricacies involved with coating wheels.

Take your time and split the wheel small sections of you have to.

Prep wise if they are new a simple prep wipe is you need.

Unless you want to get crazy and use Essence and top that with Cquartz (ie. insert Cquartz coating of choice). You will add gloss and some longevity. It looks good if the wheels are gloss black.

If the wheels are matte then a prep wipe and coating is all you need.

 

[DaveT435]

Kinda one of the things I`ve grown to like about the Gtechniq glass, wheel coatings is avaliability of 15ml bottles, usually just enough and not too much.

Outta the dedicated wheel coatings I`ve tried (Kami Stance, Gtech G5, IGL Wheel, Gyeon Rim) Stance has been the easiest to use and longest lasting, albeit the priciest.

Gtech G5 topped with PA SuperSport has done surprisingly (startingly well, actually) on the polished stainless exhaust tips of the Corvette...they stay very clean.

Recently did Cayman wheels with Stance x 2 topped with PA Supersport as well so we`ll see how that does with the rather aggressive and therefore dusty OEM brake pads.

Good idea on taking wheel/brake temp Guz, will have to remember to try that.

Do you have the Black tips on your Cayman? I did look at them very closely but they almost look like ceramic. I’ll probably coat those when I work on the Cayman again after they repaint the door.

 

[BudgetPlan1]

Do you have the Black tips on your Cayman? I did look at them very closely but they almost look like ceramic. I’ll probably coat those when I work on the Cayman again after they repaint the door.

Nope, the standard `poorly brushed` tips is what we have. Thing produces a lot of soot and interior of tips is just unfinished steel (I guess) so it`s the one area of car that bugs me as far as staying clean with little intervention.

Single wall w rolled edge, in varying temperatures the condensation mixes w the soot, gathers at the inside edge of the tip, eventually rolls over edge and leaves single black streak/stripe on rolled edge. It`s kinda irritating.

 

[DaveT435]

Nope, the standard `poorly brushed` tips is what we have. Thing produces a lot of soot and interior of tips is just unfinished steel (I guess) so it`s the one area of car that bugs me as far as staying clean with little intervention.

Single wall w rolled edge, in varying temperatures the condensation mixes w the soot, gathers at the inside edge of the tip, eventually rolls over edge and leaves single black streak/stripe on rolled edge. It`s kinda irritating.

I get a lot of soot with my Camaro, fortunately no rolled edge and the last 3/4” or so is finished on the inside.

Do you know if the black tips are actually ceramic?

 

[DaveT435]

I apologize to theOP, didn’t mean to take yourthread in a different direction.

Budget, do you know if those black tips are actually ceramic? Also I’ve found the Wolfgang Metal Sealant to do a great job on the tips with good durability.

 

[BudgetPlan1]

I apologize to theOP, didn’t mean to take yourthread in a different direction.

Budget, do you know if those black tips are actually ceramic? Also I’ve found the Wolfgang Metal Sealant to do a great job on the tips with good durability.

Dunno for sure. the brochure mentions this about the newer gen 718 exhaust:

the Sport exhaust systemalso catches the eye: with centrally
positioned Sport tailpipes, available in
highly polished chrome-plated stainless
steel in black or silver color.

 

[DaveT435]

Dunno for sure. the brochure mentions this about the newer gen 718 exhaust:

Thanks, I’ll have to check them out closer. They definitely look good.

 

[Accumulator]

I don`t think the coatings would take any longer than your beloved FK1000..

That`d probably hold true for a lot of my wheels (the 5-6 spoke ones especially), but I`ve done the Tahoe`s oe wheels both ways and the OptiCoat took *HOURS* longer, and I don`t mean just two. Absolute [freakin`] nightmare for me, just the design of those particular wheels (and their centercaps/mounting hardware/lug covers/deep valvestem coves/etc.). I was thinking how they were probably easier than the 3-piece modular wheels we used to run (grrr...all those tiny fasteners), but it sure didn`t seem like it at the time.

A big part of it is Fear of High Spots, worried that those might not just buff away like a sloppy application of wax will.

I`ve toyed with the idea of coating the oe BBS wheels on the `93, but just FKing them took me about two hours yesterday, and I was only doing the faces and not prepping them at all.

 

[DaveT435]

That`d probably hold true for a lot of my wheels (the 5-6 spoke ones especially), but I`ve done the Tahoe`s oe wheels both ways and the OptiCoat took *HOURS* longer, and I don`t mean just two. Absolute [freakin`] nightmare for me, just the design of those particular wheels (and their centercaps/mounting hardware/lug covers/deep valvestem coves/etc.). I was thinking how they were probably easier than the 3-piece modular wheels we used to run (grrr...all those tiny fasteners), but it sure didn`t seem like it at the time.

A big part of it is Fear of High Spots, worried that those might not just buff away like a sloppy application of wax will.

I`ve toyed with the idea of coating the oe BBS wheels on the `93, but just FKing them took me about two hours yesterday, and I was only doing the faces and not prepping them at all.

If you can find a coating you can airbrush and not have to level that would be ideal. It seem like there is one. I’ll try to get more information.

You’re definitely right, the design of the wheel can make a huge difference. I did some Honda wheels where it was like a 5 spoke design, but the 5 spokes were each broken down into three really narrow spokes.

 

[BudgetPlan1]

If you can find a coating you can airbrush and not have to level that would be ideal. It seem like there is one. I’ll try to get more information.

Never tried it but Migliore has an aerosol SiO2 Rim Coating

 

[DetailZeus]

That`d probably hold true for a lot of my wheels (the 5-6 spoke ones especially), but I`ve done the Tahoe`s oe wheels both ways and the OptiCoat took *HOURS* longer, and I don`t mean just two. Absolute [freakin`] nightmare for me, just the design of those particular wheels (and their centercaps/mounting hardware/lug covers/deep valvestem coves/etc.). I was thinking how they were probably easier than the 3-piece modular wheels we used to run (grrr...all those tiny fasteners), but it sure didn`t seem like it at the time.

A big part of it is Fear of High Spots, worried that those might not just buff away like a sloppy application of wax will.

I`ve toyed with the idea of coating the oe BBS wheels on the `93, but just FKing them took me about two hours yesterday, and I was only doing the faces and not prepping them at all.

Not to throw more fuel on the fire, but I`m anxious about the prep involved with coating wheels that have previously been LSP`d. Especially with something durable like FK, where I wouldn`t trust a "quick wipe down" with a prep spray or even a solvent panel wipe to remove whatever is left of the sealant. I feel like you`d really have to get in there and hand polish every bit you`re going to coat.

 

[Coleroad]

Never tried it but Migliore has an aerosol SiO2 Rim Coating

tons of negative reviews on the aerosol can and nozzle itself. Things like press the nozzle and it won`t shut off. Drippy nozzle, nozzle breaking, sounds like a risk I wouldn`t take for $90. Cool idea though I must say.

 

[Coleroad]

I think I`m going to use either the CQuk, or theglossshop coating.

 

[BudgetPlan1]

tons of negative reviews on the aerosol can and nozzle itself. Things like press the nozzle and it won`t shut off. Drippy nozzle, nozzle breaking, sounds like a risk I wouldn`t take for $90. Cool idea though I must say.

Doh! Never really looked into it much but it sounds kinda like many things that pop into my head, i.e. "Well, *that* didn`t go as planned"

 

[BudgetPlan1]

Not to throw more fuel on the fire, but I`m anxious about the prep involved with coating wheels that have previously been LSP`d. Especially with something durable like FK, where I wouldn`t trust a "quick wipe down" with a prep spray or even a solvent panel wipe to remove whatever is left of the sealant. I feel like you`d really have to get in there and hand polish every bit you`re going to coat.

When I re-did my previously coated wheels this summer I did the following:

1. Hose down with Poorboy`s Strip Down, scrub & rinse
2. Foam with Gtech W4 Citrus Foam, scrub & rinse
3. Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus, scrub & rinse
4. Gyeon Tar, scrub & rinse
5. Polish Angel Ultrared, scrub & rinse
6. Lite Polish w/ foam cone in drill, something like Megs M205 (SMAT stuff so i don`t gotta worry about it breaking down thru cycle like DAT)
7. Wipe down with Kleen-Strip Prep-All
8. Wipe down with CarPro Eraser or similar
9. Coat

Sounds like a lot but really didn`t take that long, probably 8hrs to get all 4 done but scrubbed tires w/ TuffShine Cleaner and applied their tire coating as well so that took a bit.

While I am a believer in the whole `clean surface before coating` sometimes I think the whole worry over `microscopically and surgically clean surface or else epic failure` thing is a bit overblown.

Perhaps I`m just getting a bit cynical about it all...:lol:

I think this winter I`m gonna take one of the vans I coated in Winter 2017 and just wash it and coat it again with same product (no prep, no polish, just wash with Reset and wipe down with prep spray) and see how that goes over the next year or 2, providing the world doesn`t end before then.

 

[Coleroad]

What still worries me about doing a coating on these wheels. Is the tight space behind each spoke, and the lip behind them.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Coleroad]

I think this winter I`m gonna take one of the vans I coated in Winter 2017 and just wash it and coat it again with same product (no prep, no polish, just wash with Reset and wipe down with prep spray) and see how that goes over the next year or 2, providing the world doesn`t end before then.

this would be an awesome experiment and thread. Do you plan on using the same coating, or different one over it?

 

[BudgetPlan1]

this would be an awesome experiment and thread. Do you plan on using the same coating, or different one over it?

Yup, will take the first Van I coated in 22ple HPC and just give it a wash, wipedown and recoat with 22ple HPC again. Will remove any tar and any other obvious surface debris but no decon or anything. Will coat right over any defects, scratches and abrasions.

The over-wrought `purists` heads should explode...will have to post it up on Facebook to really get people in a twist.

 

[Accumulator]

[Whenever I talk about how difficult it would be for me to get a coating 100% right, gotta remember that I have vision issues that most *don`t*. This whole Detailing thing is quite different for me than it was a half-dozen years ago. Anyhow...]

When I coated wheels they had previously been done with FK1000P. I *did* do some degree of polishing on both sets, which certainly removed any residual FK.

BUT...if the wheels are in good-enough condition, I`d just use something strong to wash them, something that`ll leave `em squeaky-clean. ValuGard "A", PrepWash, bodyshop pre-paint solvent, something along those lines. There are plenty of products that I`d trust to strip *any* conventional LSP easy-peasy.

While I am a believer in the whole `clean surface before coating` sometimes I think the whole worry over `microscopically and surgically clean surface or else epic failure` thing is a bit overblown..The over-wrought `purists` heads should explode...

I suspect you`re right. I certainly feel that way about conventional LSPs...to hear many talk you`d think my LSPs wouldn`t last a month due to the (seemingly) minimal prep, yet I seem to get better durability than most anybody!

EDIT: Heh heh, you said you`d use M250...I`d worry as much about stripping those TSO as I would about stripping FK1000P...well, almost. Sorry, I`m a broken-record on that subject