Looking for interior cleaning

[carnage]

Ones with narrow openings. Those concentrate the suction (and/but make the vacuum work harder, though it`s never bitten me...yet).

I did a google search, are they called a crevice tool?

Lots of guys use compressed air for this (though I seldom do), and steamers can be great (but they can also melt some carpets, BTDT so be careful).

The shop has compressed air,it just a matter of finding a air line no one using and not full of grease.

The great thing about an extractor, well...a potent one...is that they can really spray solution/rinse water (I use the sprayer for the latter *exclusively*) down in there, very effective. The Shop Vac will suck stuff out OK (with the right, narrow-opening, nozzle), but that`s only part of it (but OK, it`s a big part!).

I don`t know if I would need a commercial grade extractor. I only do these 6 trucks that I would need an extractor for. None of my cars, SUV or friends, family get that dirty that I would need a extractor for.

I`m hoping the interiors are all vinyl.

The great thing about an extractor, well...a potent one...is that they can really spray solution/rinse water (I use the sprayer for the latter *exclusively*) down in there, very effective. The Shop Vac will suck stuff out OK (with the right, narrow-opening, nozzle), but that`s only part of it (but OK, it`s a big part!).

Does some of the Shop Vac has the same amount of suction or lift power as a commercial extractor? I think I read something about it on one of these forums.

FWIW, many of today`s "consumer-level" Carpet Shampoos have surprised me by being really good! I still think companies like ChemSpec make the best ones, but the last few batches of Hoover/Bissell/Dirt Devil/etc. have worked quite well for me, and they rinsed out fine.

Where is the best place to look at ChemSpec shampoos?

Can the ChemSpec be use with the Little Green Machine?

I`m planning to put the shampoo in a spay bottle diluted. then spray the carpets, scrub with a medium stiff brush, them use the LGM to spray plain water and extract the dirty water, then if needed I`ll use a Shop Vac to get rid of more water if needed.

But note that, again, I only run rinse water through the extractor`s sprayer unless said extractor has a "clear water rinse" capability.

I only use my Little Green Machine for rinsing with plain water.

And those Defoamers are indeed worth using IME, at least when using lots of potent Carpet Shampoo.

Bissell has the shampoo with defoamer. I don`t know how well it works.

Yeah, Griot`s Interior Cleaner (which I do use all the time) is so gentle that it basically...heh heh..doesn`t even hurt the dirt I dunno if you`ll find a cleaner potent enough to work effectively without some degree of mechanical agitation...I`m guessing that those trucks might be a little nasty.

I tried Griot`s 1st and 2nd version of interior cleaner. It not for dirty interior. The only product I tried that did a good job was 1Z Cockpit Premium, the old gray bottle. I tried my stuff for experimental purpose only to see what works. The interior could use a dedicated interior cleaner, with good cleaning ability.

I`m not going to try steam. The truck are too expensive for a accidental goof up.

Whatever product I decide to get, I have to run it by the owner first since he paying for it.

 

[briarpatch]

Look into P&S Interior cleaner....can be had for about 16.00 a gallon and is dilutable (if you choose) to 2:1. I invested in a drill brush for agitation on nasty floors, and a softer one for seats.

 

[E-Jag]

Accumulator, you mention the old Jag quite a bit...I`m curious: I assume it still looks pretty good, knowing you from the forum. Does it still run? Is it a 6 or a 12? None of my business so feel free to ignore my nosiness.

 

[Lonnie]

Any recommendation on which carpet shampoo?

I would suggest Optimum Polymer Technologies` Carpet and Fabric Cleaner & Protectant. I would NOT suggest using their Power Clean APC on carpets as the fragrance/odor is much too "industrial" and it lingers within the fabric material of carpets or seats. While it might be OK for spot cleaning on carpets or seats, like an oil or grease sttain, I would suggest using O-CFC&P full strength instead. It may take multiple applications and extractions, but it does work well for me, even on older "organic" stains (food). Two stains it does NOT work on: old red dyes, like fruit punch or old dirty motor oil stains. A stain is a stain: it sometimes does not come out.

Another spot cleaner is WD-40`s Spot Shot. Many detailers in the past have used over-the-counter all-purpose lubricant WD-40 for removing oil and grease stains, but the fish-like smell is a little strong in a carpet or fabric, even though it dissipates over a few days. Spot Shot is like "denatured" WD-40 for carpets and fabrics, including clothing. AND, it`s available over-the-counter at Walmart for about $4.00.

Has anyone used Meguiar`s Detailer Line D106 fiber Rinse and Tannin Stain Remover or D116 Protein Stain Remover?? The first is a little expensive; about $63 for a gallon, and the second is a little more "reasonable"; about $30 for a gallon.

For the OP`s question about a suggestion for an all-in-one interior cleaner, I would second Meg`s Detailer Line D101 All-Purpose Cleaner. It works well when diluted to about 4:1 for MOST cleaning situations. I would caution using it on leather at that ratio, and would suggest using it at 10:1 on coated leathers.

And please do not laugh at this suggestion, but the Dollar General Store`s L.A. Totally Awesome is a cheap and effective cleaner (AKA cost-effective), but I am not enamored with the fragrance/smell for use in a vehicle`s interior. The label has suggestion for rations to use for various cleaning situations. Works great for clothing stains when doing the laundry. Noted forum member and detailer Justins00ss uses this cleaner as an exterior degreaser/cleaner. Please see:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/clic...-ford-edge-coated.html?highlight=#post2153843 post #7.

 

[Bill D]

I use LATA all the time not only for vehicles, but for around the house. I consider it a staple cleaner no one should be without.

 

[Accumulator]

I did a google search, are they called a crevice tool?

Yes. That`s what I use. I buy Crevice Tools made for Bissell extractors and cobble together adapters so I can use them with my other ones too.

The shop has compressed air,it just a matter of finding a air line no one using and not full of grease.

Heh heh, that grease could be an issue, huh?!? Just thought it was worth mentioning, I hardly ever go that route anyhow but others sure rave about it.

I don`t know if I would need a commercial grade extractor. I only do these 6 trucks that I would need an extractor for. None of my cars, SUV or friends, family get that dirty that I would need a extractor for.

Eh, IMO you`ll be OK with the LGM and Shop Vac.

I`m hoping the interiors are all vinyl.

That`d sure simplify things!

Hey, thought just occurred to me: the 1Z/NextZett Plastic Cleaner ("Deep Cleaner" or somesuch name) is supposedly All That. EVERYONE who tries it loves the stuff.

Does some of the Shop Vac has the same amount of suction or lift power as a commercial extractor? I think I read something about it on one of these forums.

I don`t know. I once had a Sears Extractor Conversion Kit for my Craftsman Shop Vacs and it was OK but not really better than my Bissell/Hoover extractors and sure not in the same class as my Ninja. BUT..there are lots of different "shop vacs" and yours might be better than mine.

Where is the best place to look at ChemSpec shampoos?

Find the nearest Carpet Cleaning (or Janitorial) Supply place. The Carpet Cleaning Pros in your area get their stuff somewhere, and that would be my approach.

Can the ChemSpec be use with the Little Green Machine?

Yes. All such stuff is just...well...carpet shampoo of varying strengths/quality. I`ve *NEVER* had any problems using anything in anything, other than some foaming issues (which the Defoamer solves just fine).

I`m planning to put the shampoo in a spay bottle diluted. then spray the carpets, scrub with a medium stiff brush, them use the LGM to spray plain water and extract the dirty water, then if needed I`ll use a Shop Vac to get rid of more water if needed.

That sounds like what I do! And while it can sound awfully, uhm..infomercial, OxyClean can help too.

I only use my Little Green Machine for rinsing with plain water.

Right, same here with my units like that.

Bissell has the shampoo with defoamer. I don`t know how well it works.

Give it a try, might be great. No real harm if not other than wasted time.

I tried Griot`s 1st and 2nd version of interior cleaner. It not for dirty interior. The only product I tried that did a good job was 1Z Cockpit Premium, the old gray bottle.

Yeah, the GG is very mild. I`m still using up my 1ZCP in that same bottle, it`s lasted me for many years! Doesn`t do much cleaning, but it`s fine for quickie dusting jobs.

The interior could use a dedicated interior cleaner, with good cleaning ability.

Try the NextZett Deep Cleaner or that LA Totally Awesome (if it`s good enough for Bill D...).

I`m not going to try steam. The truck are too expensive for a accidental goof up.

That`s smart.

Whatever product I decide to get, I have to run it by the owner first since he paying for it.

Good stuff oughta be worth the expense and I bet it won`t be all that pricey if you buy commercial products/large sizes.

 

[Accumulator]

E-Jag- Let me PM you so I don`t [crap] all over this thread, and discussions of that Problem Child tend to seem that way, at least to me.

EDIT: can`t get the PMing to work. So...with apologies to the others on this thread, here goes a rant

Short Version:

`85 XHS-HE w/V12. ~20K miles. Rhodium Silver (single stage) Metallic, Oxblood leather, and I still have the original tires on the oe rims. I bought it new with help from my terminally-ill mother (hence sentimental attachment). It oughta be in wonderful shape as I`ve always done my best and didn`t get it until I knew what I was doing, BUT..

At best it`s Story Car. Repainted in at least *six* places during initial build, two more spots at point-of-import (which failed after a couple years), and [botched] spot-ins by supposedly good shops over the years. Cosmetic damage from shops I thought I could trust, unfixable damage (latest: my Tech caused an "outie" dent on the hood and my "good" painter killed a front fender with his rotary after I specifically told him, in detail, what he could/couldn`t do on the car!! Both of which happened without anybody telling me anything or taking responsibility when I called `em on it). Can`t even get the paint custom-mixed any more so no way to even try fixing it if I wanted to (I refuse to have it done in b/c, period). Hey, at least it`s not rusty.

It does run fine, and it`s never let me down (other than waiting on Vapor Lock a few times) even though the battery won`t hold a charge (never has since new, nobody can fix). It had a laundry list of issues right from the jump...Jag offered to buy it back under warranty over all its problems and I should`ve let `em have it.

Eh, TBH, I`ve never really enjoyed driving it all that much and I just don`t care enough to put in the time it`d take to get it back in service. It`s not really a "car" to me, just, uhm.."an interesting mechanical device that I`m a used to having around". But that damage [ticks] me off every time I see it now so, eh...I don`t know what I`m gonna do so I just don`t do anything.

 

[E-Jag]

I think I would`ve been homicidal. My E `vert, which I sold last year, never failed to get me from point A to point B and back, but Lord that old gal ran rough sometimes. Only way I could afford it after awhile was because my mechanic was also my client and usually worked on it at his home - he had a great shop. It got to the point, though, where parts were more expensive than diamonds. I finally bit the bullet (thought about swallowing the barrel) and did a complete resto then stored it in my sister/b-i-l`s garage when I moved to Florida. Took me years to recover from that. Sold it because I absolutely can`t/won`t handle the parts/maintenance. I`m certain that every Jag owner has his stories. Jag never had any quality control until Ford bought the company. With the $ I spent on that car I could`ve bought Ford. But if I had it all to do over again, I would. Thanks for your reply, I`ve long wondered about that. Never drove a V-12 anything.

 

[Stokdgs]

Is the Tuf Shine brush kind of stiff, or firm bristle to use on interiors? Usually tire brushes has stiff bristles.

I still have the old microfiber scrubbing pads that look like a waffle weave microfiber with a foam core. Do you think this would work on the hard plastic, dash, door panels? I got it from Proper Auto Care.

I thought about using a Meguiar`s Microfiber Pad on a DA polisher with interior cleaner sprayed on them for the nasty stuff on the hard plastic.

The specialized carpet cleaner I don`t know of any. I thought about using the Bissell cleaner that came with my Little Green Machine. I need a carpet cleaner the cleans effectively but can be thoroughly rinsed by my Little Green Machine.

When the person before me used to the trucks he bought all the cleaners, detailing products. They were in 5 gallons containers marked carpet cleaner, plastic cleaner, etc. I have no clue what brand name products I was using. No one in the garage knows either. Now that I ran out of supplies I have no clue what to get.

Last year I tried a few dedicated interior cleaner like Griots, Britemax Meguiars interior detailer, It didn`t work out to good. I would like to find a effective spray and wipe interior cleaner.

Carnage ---

The Tuf-Shine Tire Brush is not really stiff compared to other "tire brushes", but it can still thoroughly clean tires very well.. I have worn out several of them after years of use.. They are very inexpensive..

The Tuf-Shine people also make an amazing cleaner sponge that I have used since they were invented, and have several always on hand in the Shop.. They have this dark fabric on one side laminated to a soft green sponge on the other side.. The dark, coarser side of course, cleans really well and i have yet to hurt something with it.. You have to use common sense with all things and just figure out what is the best tool/s to use that day for that job.. This sponge cleans very well, is very easy to rinse out, and if you rinse it out, it will live forever and NEVER hold stuff in and Smell...

Here are links to these products -- https://www.autopia-carcare.com/tuf-shine-tire-brush.html#.XX_-YNWpH3g

Shoot !! Autopia and AutoGeek does NOT sell the cleaner sponge !!!! WHY ???
Well, it`s called the TufShine Scrub All Sponge, google it, buy a few, you can thank me sometime..

Since you are talking now about a dedicated interior plastic cleaner, I also vote for Einszett, now called Nextzett Deep Plastic Cleaner.. I have used gallons of it over decades and it absolutely will clean plastic and leave it looking nicely afterwards.. It is not cheap like regular cleaners, but for my business plan, on very expensive vehicles, it is all I will ever use. It`s proven itself over decades of use.. It works very fast, and does not require a rinse.. You cannot use it on hot surfaces on in the sun, etc... Has a nice smell to it that is a -clean-smell.. I believe you can purchase it in a big 5L plastic jug still...

The Germans have a whole better over view on how to clean many things, and were probably doing this way before America figured out how to clean plastics, anyway..

Dan F

 

[SWETM]

I can highly recommend the Ultima Interior Schampoo Gel. Used it this weekend on the interior and even if it`s very gentle to the materials you use it on it`s still has a very good cleaning ability from it. On some interiors I don`t like to use the APCs that you need to be following up with a wet/damp mf towel. And this Ultima ISG gets the job on even the tougher stains. Then of course you can get a stain that you need to be useing a special chemical to desolve it. But it`s as powerfull as the APC I have used and even stronger than some. It also leaves a fresh scent behind. On flat areas I spray it on the surface or in the mf towel. Wipe it over the surface and do it once more and done. If I would get some left of it on the surface I wipe it off with a dry mf towel. That`s rare it happens as if you don`t use to much of it it evaporate spot free from the surface. If I have a build up of dirt I spray directly on it and use a little interior brush and loosen it up and then wipe it up. Have done a Nissan Navarra truck with it that is used in the forrest for transportation to the forrester machine. These you get that sticky environmental safe hydralic oils on most parts of the interior LOL. And the dust from the trees is not so easy to get off either. But didn`t get any problems with the Ultima Interior Schampoo Gel to clean it up. You notice when the mf towel gets saturated with dirt and grime and just take a new side of the folded mf towel and move on and switch to a fresh one when all of the sides is used. A little goes a long way as with all of the Ultima products. Carpets and fabric material always soak up more solution so there a dedicated carpet and fabric cleaner could be used if you are doing it proffessional. Then I would go with a low foaming carpet cleaner that`s gets easier to rinse out with your Bissel and rinse water. High foaming useally takes longer to rinse it out. You can use the Ultima this way too but since on the expensive side of interior cleaners it`s good to have an alternative one. And also have various of the dedicated stain removers at hand if you are needed to be useing a certain chemical that desolves that kind of dirt.

https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ult-6022.html

https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ultima-interior-shampoo-gel.html

One thing that I would consider since you have access to compressed air. Is the Tornador Black with the vacuum attachement to it. With that you can use on most surfaces and it speeds up the work. Just look up so the air compressor has enough cfm and psi and is strong enough to refill the compressor tank while in use. The vacuum attachement gets you a great residue control. And works great as an extractor too with a great vacuum of course.

A Tornador Black Kit

https://www.autopia-carcare.com/tornador-cleaning-kit.html

The individual products

https://www.autopia-carcare.com/tornador-black-z-020.html

https://www.autopia-carcare.com/tornador-velocity-vac.html

/ Tony

 

[Lonnie]

`85 XHS-HE w/V12. ~20K miles. Rhodium Silver (single stage) Metallic, Oxblood leather, and I still have the original tires on the oe rims. I bought it new with help from my terminally-ill mother (hence sentimental attachment). It oughta be in wonderful shape as I`ve always done my best and didn`t get it until I knew what I was doing, BUT..

It does run fine, and it`s never let me down (other than waiting on Vapor Lock a few times) even though the battery won`t hold a charge (never has since new, nobody can fix). It had a laundry list of issues right from the jump...Jag offered to buy it back under warranty over all its problems and I should`ve let `em have it.

.....

Ah, yes, Lucas electricals. Prince of Darkness.
Joke of the day:
Why do the English drink warm beer?
Because they all have Lucas refrigerators!!
(OK, those of you with an English vehicle with Lucas electricals are NOT laughing
OR maybe you cannot afford to buy a different refrigerator for your beer because you`ve spent it all on trying to fix your English vehicle and keep it running!)

 

[GearHead_1]

Man I used to hate fixing Lucas ignition and charging systems.

 

[Accumulator]

Note that you can OVERpower the Tornador Black. Mine doesn`t work right at more than ~95psi so I have to remember to dial it back from its usual setting.

SWETM- So the Vacuum Attachment works well? I`ve been wondering whether I`d like it better for interiors if I had that.

Overall, the Tornador isn`t doing much for me, though I sometimes use it as a (VERY gentle) spot-pressure washer on mildly soiled surfaces. I see people using it for wheels/etc. and there`s simply no way mine will do stuff like that in a reasonable amount of time, it`s not even *close* to that level of power. Yeah, mine is working right It`s just a very, *very* gentle approach IME. I tried it on some interior stuff like mats and promptly went back to processes that *work*.

Oh, and I think that Ultima Interior Shampoo Gel is the one I got. Seems like good stuff though I haven`t done much with it yet.

 

[Accumulator]

Lonnie & GearHead1- Other than the Mystery Drain (battery shutoff I had installed the first week killed it for Concours ) and the oe headunit (ditto on the replacement radio that actually works), the electronics have been perfectly reliable. Well, except for having to keep a jumper wire in the glovebox to outsmart the A/C when it refuses to work by itself.

Eh, I probably overstated its "laundry list of issues", and most of the mechanical ones (some of which were genuinely life-threatening...in a rather pricey new car with zero warranty support!) are now sorted, but it`s been a letdown from the jump. Just a case of "why drive/detail/think about that when I have the others?"

 

[GearHead_1]

Lonnie & GearHead1- Other than the Mystery Drain (battery shutoff I had installed the first week killed it for Concours ) and the oe headunit (ditto on the replacement radio that actually works), the electronics have been perfectly reliable. Well, except for having to keep a jumper wire in the glovebox to outsmart the A/C when it refuses to work by itself.

Eh, I probably overstated its "laundry list of issues", and most of the mechanical ones (some of which were genuinely life-threatening...in a rather pricey new car with zero warranty support!) are now sorted, but it`s been a letdown from the jump. Just a case of "why drive/detail/think about that when I have the others?"

Accumulator, you gotta know, people were bringing these systems into me, they had problems at a much higher frequency rate than other models which makes me remember Lucas negatively. It’s easy to like something that doesn’t cause YOU problems. I wasn’t looking at them from a perspective of what thy did right but rather fixing what they didn’t do right. There are no doubt many that had no issues with their British electronics.

This discussion got me to thinking about this and I remembered this though I don’t remember all of the details. I worked on an old Triumph one time where the owner had installed his own new battery and it wasn’t “running well”. Wait, here it is. In fact this is the only car I’ve ever seen that actually started and ran with a battery installed backwards. It was a positive earth vehicle. You heard that right and don’t ask me how, I never did get my head around it. It fried the alternator but not the links, switches or fuses. The starter also needed to be replaced a couple of weeks later but that car actually ran and didn’t burn to the ground. He was still driving the car a couple of years after that incident. Go figure.

 

[Lonnie]

English cars have made "mechanics" out of their owners more than any other country`s manufacturers. Any MG, Jaguar-Land Rover, Mini-Cooper,Lotus, Vauxhall, Morgan, Austin- Martin, Bentley, even Rolls-Royce owner will attest to that. Hard to believe how such a small country could have SO many vehicle manufacturers that created so many mechanics` careers. Maybe that is why there is a shortage of good dentists in the UK; they HAD to become vehicle repair mechanics instead! (OK, Captain Obvious, you are being (very) cynical now.)
But I digress....... Back to interior cleaners!.

 

[carnage]

Yes. That`s what I use. I buy Crevice Tools made for Bissell extractors and cobble together adapters so I can use them with my other ones too.

My Little Green Machine comes with attachments, a wide vacuum nozzle, a crevice tool with a brush around it. I don`t remember if the brush comes off the crevice tool but I can see the brush getting in the way in tight area.

Heh heh, that grease could be an issue, huh?!? Just thought it was worth mentioning, I hardly ever go that route anyhow but others sure rave about it.

Thanks for the suggestion. I tried wiping the grease off using a degreaser, then when I get the hose back It`s full of grease again. Endless battle that I`m not going to win.

Eh, IMO you`ll be OK with the LGM and Shop Vac.

I did it before, it just take longer to finish.

Hey, thought just occurred to me: the 1Z/NextZett Plastic Cleaner ("Deep Cleaner" or somesuch name) is supposedly All That. EVERYONE who tries it loves the stuff.

They`re good products, I have both. The only thing is they`re not cost efficient. I just pick up Meguiars Gold Class Vinyl and leather cleaner, just to experiment with.

I don`t know. I once had a Sears Extractor Conversion Kit for my Craftsman Shop Vacs and it was OK but not really better than my Bissell/Hoover extractors and sure not in the same class as my Ninja. BUT..there are lots of different "shop vacs" and yours might be better than mine.

The garage Shop Vac is one of those stainless steel one. It does a good job. To bad there wasn`t a attachment for a Shop Vac, like a motorized rotating beater brush. This way the carpet gets brush and vacuum at the same time.

Which Ninja are you mentioning about?

Yes. All such stuff is just...well...carpet shampoo of varying strengths/quality. I`ve *NEVER* had any problems using anything in anything, other than some foaming issues (which the Defoamer solves just fine).

Would I have to dilute the shampoo a little weaker to be extracted using the Little Green Machine, since it doesn`t have the suction of a professional extractor?

Find the nearest Carpet Cleaning (or Janitorial) Supply place. The Carpet Cleaning Pros in your area get their stuff somewhere, and that would be my approach.

I don`t don`t have any local to me. My next trip up to the shop I`ll look if there any there.

That sounds like what I do! And while it can sound awfully, uhm..infomercial, OxyClean can help too.

Can OxyClean help with odor? My sister has coffee spill in her cup holder, leaking down on the carpets.

Give it a try, might be great. No real harm if not other than wasted time.

I may not have the time I need, working full time at another job. I have to get the trucks done on their schedule.

Yeah, the GG is very mild. I`m still using up my 1ZCP in that same bottle, it`s lasted me for many years! Doesn`t do much cleaning, but it`s fine for quickie dusting jobs.

I find 1ZCP (gray bottle) has pretty good cleaning ability. I wipe down a dash with GG interior cleaner first then went over it with 1ZCP. The yellow cloth was black after.

Try the NextZett Deep Cleaner or that LA Totally Awesome (if it`s good enough for Bill D...).

Do you know if the LA Totally Awesome APC need a damp cloth wipe down?

Good stuff oughta be worth the expense and I bet it won`t be all that pricey if you buy commercial products/large sizes.

The owner doesn`t look at it that way. It`s more money out of his pocket.

I already got some cleaners for the exterior of the trucks. Meguiars D101, D108, D110, D120.

 

[carnage]

The Tuf-Shine people also make an amazing cleaner sponge that I have used since they were invented, and have several always on hand in the Shop.. They have this dark fabric on one side laminated to a soft green sponge on the other side.. The dark, coarser side of course, cleans really well and i have yet to hurt something with it.. You have to use common sense with all things and just figure out what is the best tool/s to use that day for that job.. This sponge cleans very well, is very easy to rinse out, and if you rinse it out, it will live forever and NEVER hold stuff in and Smell...

Can the coarse side be used on leather?

Are the TufShine sponge like one of those dish sponge with Scotch Brite green pads?

Shoot !! Autopia and AutoGeek does NOT sell the cleaner sponge !!!! WHY ???

Through a Google search AutoGeek did sell them at one time. Probably was a slow seller.

Well, it`s called the TufShine Scrub All Sponge, google it, buy a few, you can thank me sometime..

Thanks!

Since you are talking now about a dedicated interior plastic cleaner, I also vote for Einszett, now called Nextzett Deep Plastic Cleaner.. I have used gallons of it over decades and it absolutely will clean plastic and leave it looking nicely afterwards.. It is not cheap like regular cleaners, but for my business plan, on very expensive vehicles, it is all I will ever use. It`s proven itself over decades of use.. It works very fast, and does not require a rinse.. You cannot use it on hot surfaces on in the sun, etc... Has a nice smell to it that is a -clean-smell.. I believe you can purchase it in a big 5L plastic jug still...

The problem with 1Z/Nextzett, it`s not cost effective, as you mentioned.

Has the chemicals, formula change with Cockpit Premium since the gray bottles, beside the scent?

 

[carnage]

I can highly recommend the Ultima Interior Schampoo Gel. Used it this weekend on the interior and even if it`s very gentle to the materials you use it on it`s still has a very good cleaning ability from it. On some interiors I don`t like to use the APCs that you need to be following up with a wet/damp mf towel. And this Ultima ISG gets the job on even the tougher stains. Then of course you can get a stain that you need to be useing a special chemical to desolve it. But it`s as powerfull as the APC I have used and even stronger than some. It also leaves a fresh scent behind. On flat areas I spray it on the surface or in the mf towel. Wipe it over the surface and do it once more and done. If I would get some left of it on the surface I wipe it off with a dry mf towel. That`s rare it happens as if you don`t use to much of it it evaporate spot free from the surface. If I have a build up of dirt I spray directly on it and use a little interior brush and loosen it up and then wipe it up. Have done a Nissan Navarra truck with it that is used in the forrest for transportation to the forrester machine. These you get that sticky environmental safe hydralic oils on most parts of the interior LOL. And the dust from the trees is not so easy to get off either. But didn`t get any problems with the Ultima Interior Schampoo Gel to clean it up. You notice when the mf towel gets saturated with dirt and grime and just take a new side of the folded mf towel and move on and switch to a fresh one when all of the sides is used. A little goes a long way as with all of the Ultima products. Carpets and fabric material always soak up more solution so there a dedicated carpet and fabric cleaner could be used if you are doing it proffessional. Then I would go with a low foaming carpet cleaner that`s gets easier to rinse out with your Bissel and rinse water. High foaming useally takes longer to rinse it out. You can use the Ultima this way too but since on the expensive side of interior cleaners it`s good to have an alternative one. And also have various of the dedicated stain removers at hand if you are needed to be useing a certain chemical that desolves that kind of dirt.

The owner won`t spend the money for higher end detailing products. I may pick up a bottle myself to experiment on what Ultima can do.

One thing that I would consider since you have access to compressed air. Is the Tornador Black with the vacuum attachement to it. With that you can use on most surfaces and it speeds up the work. Just look up so the air compressor has enough cfm and psi and is strong enough to refill the compressor tank while in use. The vacuum attachement gets you a great residue control. And works great as an extractor too with a great vacuum of course.

The owner definite won`t spend the money on a Tornado Black.

I don`t know if the air compressor can keep up with all the other equipment going at the same time. I would have to wait until hardly no one using the air compressor, plus a free line.

 

[carnage]

What`s better, a drill brush or a hook and loop DA brush?

What type of bristles are better, mild, stiff bristle?