Whip`s Wax Salt Remover-Excellent Stuff

[Older]

I finally got around to trying my Whip`s Wax Salt Remover.

I sprayed it on a salt-encrusted car, let it dwell for 30 seconds. The salt just melted right off, no issues.

It`s a refreshing change to have a product that actually does what the manufacturer claims.

I would definitely buy it again.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

Ha. What do you think about this for undercarriage...where you might only be able to rinse after, rather than wash?

 

[mobiledynamics]

Were you still left with a film that needed to be removed vis-via a sponge/towel ?

 

[Setec Astronomy]

Were you still left with a film that needed to be removed vis-via a sponge/towel ?

They say it doesn`t replace car wash (conventional, rinseless, waterless), but that`s why I was asking what happens if you were to use it somewhere where you can`t agitate easily, like undercarriage or wheel wells, this mag chloride doesn`t want to come off, I notice it doesn`t even wash out of the cracks in the street after it rains.

 

[Dan]

I`d love to see a comparison with this stuff, plain water, carwash soap and APC.

 

[Accumulator]

We might oughta be careful about extrapolating from comparisons. Stuff like the Magnesium Chloride is apparently a lot harder to clean off than whatever they use in my area, where regular Car Wash Shampoo is sufficient to get the undercarrriage/etc. clean (just did it again this last weekend).

I do find it odd that I`ve never had any of our undercarriages be hard to clean, but for people who do find it challenging the Whips might be just the ticket.

Older- Glad it works so well for you! Is it LSP-friendly?

Setec Astronomy- I still don`t get why people don`t just jack the vehicle up onto stands and get under there to clean things. It`s just not *that* hard once ya get your routine sorted out, especially if somebody`s only gonna do it once/wash to clean things up and not worry about drying/spraywaxing/etc.

 

[392hemi]

We might oughta be careful about extrapolating from comparisons. Stuff like the Magnesium Chloride is apparently a lot harder to clean off than whatever they use in my area, where regular Car Wash Shampoo is sufficient to get the undercarrriage/etc. clean (just did it again this last weekend).

I do find it odd that I`ve never had any of our undercarriages be hard to clean, but for people who do find it challenging the Whips might be just the ticket.

Older- Glad it works so well for you! Is it LSP-friendly?

Setec Astronomy- I still don`t get why people don`t just jack the vehicle up onto stands and get under there to clean things. It`s just not *that* hard once ya get your routine sorted out, especially if somebody`s only gonna do it once/wash to clean things up and not worry about drying/spraywaxing/etc.

Probably because you would lifting it twice a week to clean the crud out lol.

I do think with a pressure washer, foam cannon and those undercarriage rolling wands it might be easier?

Problem is the salt stays on the road until a couple of major rainstorms wash it away. The melting snow, rain just keeps throwing back the snow day after day.

 

[392hemi]

Unfortunately I park in a heated apartment garage so it`s worse. I`ll show you a picture of the ground near the car, you see all the horrible salt run off lol. I hate the stuff, they drop it once on the roads and it will continue to cover your car for a month.

 

[Justins00ss]

Whips Wax salt remover is legit. Very handy product

 

[Accumulator]

392hemi- Oh man, you sure make me appreciate how fortunate I am. Especially so, I guess, since our garages are climate-controlled and that "above freezing" is reputed to make the whole thing worse, though it hasn`t bit us yet.

I do remember back when we were teaching, the U`s parking garage had horrible drippage in the winter, so bad my wife and I paid to park blocks from campus where the vehicles would be safe...well, safer.

Probably because you would lifting it twice a week to clean the crud out lol.

Heh heh, that`s probably what most here would expect, but.....NO! Actually I often, well... make that "sometimes"... let the vehicles go for quite a while between washes I sure don`t wash weekly unless I have an awfully good reason, and that`s hardly ever the case. And then I`ll often just do a touchless, which continues to work a lot better than I`d expected. Those quickie jobs barely touch the undercarriage, mostly just those areas that show, but the underneath always cleans up fine the next time I do a real wash.

 

[SWETM]

392hemi- Oh man, you sure make me appreciate how fortunate I am. Especially so, I guess, since our garages are climate-controlled and that "above freezing" is reputed to make the whole thing worse, though it hasn`t bit us yet.

I do remember back when we were teaching, the U`s parking garage had horrible drippage in the winter, so bad my wife and I paid to park blocks from campus where the vehicles would be safe...well, safer.



Heh heh, that`s probably what most here would expect, but.....NO! Actually I often, well... make that "sometimes"... let the vehicles go for quite a while between washes I sure don`t wash weekly unless I have an awfully good reason, and that`s hardly ever the case. And then I`ll often just do a touchless, which continues to work a lot better than I`d expected. Those quickie jobs barely touch the undercarriage, mostly just those areas that show, but the underneath always cleans up fine the next time I do a real wash.

What do you use when doing a touchless wash?


Anyone with a detailing business who buy the Whip`s Wax Salt Remover and could ask for the SDS sheet next time you buy. Would be very interesting to see the chemicals used in it and the ph level it has. Awesome if you could do that and very appreciated. If I would guess it`s based on Sodium Hydroxide or something Sodium. Or it`s the other way around from alkaline and acidic and then most likely oxalic acid based.

I used an alkaline degreaser that had potassium hydroxide and tetrasodium and a couple of other chemicals in it. First I used a petroleum based degreaser on the lower side panels and the back of the car. And when that was dwelled enough I applyied the alkaline degreaser over that and on the whole car. That way I got the road salt and the road film desolved and cleaned it off with the PW. Very little dirt shows in the rinse bucket after a wash. Now days I use a TFR prewash foam and PW clean it off and use the petroleum based degreaser after this.

Would be intresting to see how the Griots Garage Surface Wash does on a road salt dirty vehical. And would also be interesting to see how a citrus based degreaser/APC would do on that type of dirt. Citus peel oils IME is great on road film dirt that oily residue it has. Angelwax Cleanliness is a prewash foam that is citrus based prewash foam. And work awesome when I have used it and smells great too LOL. Bilt Hamber Surfex HD is my favorite prewash in the winter months. It`s an APC that is high alkaline ph13 in concentrate but very effective when diluted too. So you can use it in the foamcannon but it`s gets you not that shaving cream thick foam but very thin and runny foam. Still very effective and fast working and goes after most kind of dirt. It`s not LSP safe so a topper or reapply the LSP is often needed when you use 1:15 to neat. Otherwise if the LSP is fresh and not in it`s last longevity I use it 1:20 without any problems and still effective on the road film.

Would be intresting to test out the Whip`s Wax Salt Remover though. And see how it works against what I normaly uses.

 

[Accumulator]

SWETM- None of those products sound LSP-friendly to me, sure glad I don`t have to resort to them. But then I`m often glad I don`t have to deal with the stuff that guys like you do! Some of the stuff you post about would drive me nuts.

My Touchless Wash always starts with a rinsing off using the Pressure Washer. If the vehicle is very dirty I first use soft water, but I always end using deionized water. Then I do a rinseless wash of the wheels/tires using IUDJ mixed with distilled water at near-QD strength.

The rest of it has evolved a bit recently, need to do a proper write-up on the biggest change- my Lonn Cleaning Gun (compressor-powered, google up Lonn Hose Nozzle to find their website) spraying the same IUDJ mix at ~140psi. After using the Lonn/IUDJ I blow it dry with the AirWand and then the compressor.

No, it`s not perfect. I doubt it would work on something that`s not well-LSPed. I only do it once/twice before doing a "real" wash. But for what it is, and what I expect, IMO it`s simply *great*. Nobody except an Autopian would think it`s less than perfect. Although, sigh...I still spend more time doing that than many here would ever spend on a Real Wash; the last time I did the Tahoe it took well over an hour and I was really rushing to do it that fast (I`d spend a lot longer doing it on any other vehicle).

 

[SWETM]

SWETM- None of those products sound LSP-friendly to me, sure glad I don`t have to resort to them. But then I`m often glad I don`t have to deal with the stuff that guys like you do! Some of the stuff you post about would drive me nuts.

My Touchless Wash always starts with a rinsing off using the Pressure Washer. If the vehicle is very dirty I first use soft water, but I always end using deionized water. Then I do a rinseless wash of the wheels/tires using IUDJ mixed with distilled water at near-QD strength.

The rest of it has evolved a bit recently, need to do a proper write-up on the biggest change- my Lonn Cleaning Gun (compressor-powered, google up Lonn Hose Nozzle to find their website) spraying the same IUDJ mix at ~140psi. After using the Lonn/IUDJ I blow it dry with the AirWand and then the compressor.

No, it`s not perfect. I doubt it would work on something that`s not well-LSPed. I only do it once/twice before doing a "real" wash. But for what it is, and what I expect, IMO it`s simply *great*. Nobody except an Autopian would think it`s less than perfect. Although, sigh...I still spend more time doing that than many here would ever spend on a Real Wash; the last time I did the Tahoe it took well over an hour and I was really rushing to do it that fast (I`d spend a lot longer doing it on any other vehicle).

Very interesting method you are doing! A touchless wash with a QD/ waterless wash solution and you are happy with the results is just great. We do what works for us in our environments.

Yeah some LSP is it harsh on. But fk1000p is one of them it works on. No own experience with it but some forum members uses here in Sweden does use it. 476s, fk1000p and Soft99 Fusso Coat is some of the most popular sealant waxes here. Cause they stand up to the alkaline degreaser and petroleum based degreaser great. I have used some of the spray on rinse off coating products and some other Sio2 based toppers with great outcome and longevity from them. But some like Carpro Reload has some kind of oil based glossenhancer that gets desolved right away. But the Sio2 and other protection chemicals in Reload survive the tar degreaser which is the petroleum based degreaser. So the gloss goes down a notch but no more than when you first wash a freshly applyied pure organic wax.

Don`t know if this link is going to work on a picture from AGO that I have uploaded there. But if you can see all those tar and rubber dots behind the wheel. This is after a completly decon with no spots there afterwards and then applyied Carpro Hydro2 lite. And this is how it looks like 5 weeks after with no washes. I`m very satisfied with the self cleaning ability from Hydro2 lite if you compare to all of the salt crusted dirt I don`t have so much of. But the tar and rubber dots and what not it is are unvoideble to get unfortuneally. Sure a great LSP do so them releasing easier but I don`t want that in the wash mitt or mf wash towels. So that`s why I go overkill mode when useing prewash products.

 

[Accumulator]

SWETM- If you reposted the link from AGO I`m not seeing it...but it sounds like the Hydro2 lite works great for you. Do you use it in addition to FK1000p or instead of it?

Most of our vehicles wear FK1000P, and that`s what the Lonn + IUDJ worked so well on. Some time I`ll try it on the A8, which currently wears OCW. I will say that I didn`t expect it to work so well; my Lonn Cleaning Gun had been sitting around unused for a *LONG* time because I had such low expectations.

Since I do my first passes (of a conventional wash) with a BHB, the "tar stains on towel/mitt" aren`t a problem (it rinses right off my BHBs). When tar sticks too much for the BHB I clay it off (yeah, ruins the clay) before I use a mitt. Actually, I go so long between washes that the tar is almost always very dry by the time I clean it off, funny that it doesn`t ruin the FK1000P, but it hardly ever does....I *might* need to reapply annually, but even that is soon, just staying ahead of the curve.

But your situation is a lot more demanding than mine, and thus the prewash products make a lot of sense.

 

[SWETM]

SWETM- If you reposted the link from AGO I`m not seeing it...but it sounds like the Hydro2 lite works great for you. Do you use it in addition to FK1000p or instead of it?

Most of our vehicles wear FK1000P, and that`s what the Lonn + IUDJ worked so well on. Some time I`ll try it on the A8, which currently wears OCW. I will say that I didn`t expect it to work so well; my Lonn Cleaning Gun had been sitting around unused for a *LONG* time because I had such low expectations.

Since I do my first passes (of a conventional wash) with a BHB, the "tar stains on towel/mitt" aren`t a problem (it rinses right off my BHBs). When tar sticks too much for the BHB I clay it off (yeah, ruins the clay) before I use a mitt. Actually, I go so long between washes that the tar is almost always very dry by the time I clean it off, funny that it doesn`t ruin the FK1000P, but it hardly ever does....I *might* need to reapply annually, but even that is soon, just staying ahead of the curve.

But your situation is a lot more demanding than mine, and thus the prewash products make a lot of sense.

I use the Hydro2 lite as a stand alone LSP. Have not bought fk1000p. There are so many products to chose between LOL. Fk1000p I can get here in Sweden but not the IUDJ which I have been most interesting to test out. Will see in the future if I buy from a place that has IUDJ. Have seen it on some UK sites so not impossible. But maybe need to be doing it before the Brexit deal comes through where UK leaves the EU. Think it could be that the shipping charges and taxes and the customs cost is gonna be to high then. Which they unfortuneally is when buying from the US now.

Here is the picture uploaded from tapatalk instead

Not bad beading when the last wash was 5 weeks ago. Only Carpro Hydro2 lite as LSP.

/ Tony

Skickat från min SM-T585 via Tapatalk

 

[Accumulator]

SWETM- Ah, thanks for getting the pics to post.

I gather those black tar/rubber spots don`t clean off easily. Stuff like that seldom sticks to FK1000P too badly, but it almost certainly would require some kind of special treatment (I`d use clay, gently enough to *not* strip the FK).

I know everybody says "you must try THIS!" about their favorites, but I really do think FK1000P might be worth trying. I read all the Newest Best Thing threads and none of them have impressed me as being worth my trying given how well the FK works for me. I honestly doubt that people here would believe how seldom I have to reapply it, or even do a real wash. Very often, I just end up washing the wheels/tires and leaving the rest alone and as I keep saying, I never have etching when I leave bugs/bird-bombs on the paint for ages. But eh, that`s just IME.

The IUDJ, OTOH, much as I do like/recommend it, might not be all *that* different from other RW concentrates; I bet Ultima and others are at least comparable and the current version of ONR might be too (I haven`t tried it). But I really do think IUDJ has replaced QDs for me, doubt I`ll buy any of them again except M34 (used when buffing off compound residue).

I can`t remember...have you tried Sonax PNS? I hear that is very comparable to the FK1000P in performance.

 

[SWETM]

SWETM- Ah, thanks for getting the pics to post.

I gather those black tar/rubber spots don`t clean off easily. Stuff like that seldom sticks to FK1000P too badly, but it almost certainly would require some kind of special treatment (I`d use clay, gently enough to *not* strip the FK).

I know everybody says "you must try THIS!" about their favorites, but I really do think FK1000P might be worth trying. I read all the Newest Best Thing threads and none of them have impressed me as being worth my trying given how well the FK works for me. I honestly doubt that people here would believe how seldom I have to reapply it, or even do a real wash. Very often, I just end up washing the wheels/tires and leaving the rest alone and as I keep saying, I never have etching when I leave bugs/bird-bombs on the paint for ages. But eh, that`s just IME.

The IUDJ, OTOH, much as I do like/recommend it, might not be all *that* different from other RW concentrates; I bet Ultima and others are at least comparable and the current version of ONR might be too (I haven`t tried it). But I really do think IUDJ has replaced QDs for me, doubt I`ll buy any of them again except M34 (used when buffing off compound residue).

I can`t remember...have you tried Sonax PNS? I hear that is very comparable to the FK1000P in performance.

I definitely have the fk1000p on the list to. But I have gotten carried away with a lot of stuff LOL. I take care of 2 cars only so not much testing. Have used BSD which is the same protection that is in the PNS but as a QD. I like the looks from it on white paint a lot but on my silver metallic car it`s got a little to of a crispy look or shiney look. On the silver metallic paint I want a little warmer look from the LSP. The same is it with Gyeon Wet Coat awesome on white paint and to shiney on the silver metallic. IIRC fk1000p has that look that makes it shiney a high shine like PNS and BSD? So that`s why have been avoiding it LOL.

The white Ford Focus I maintain I have a plan for this spring to use a combo with Angelwax ti-22 as base protection. It`s a titanium based that is like a sealant protection I think. Then I will top it with Angelwax Desirable Wax which is their show car wax. And when the wax wears down I use different toppers. Know it has only Sonax Spray and Seal on it. Which is Sonax spray on rinse off product and has a little warmer look than BSD. I use the spray on rinse off a lot since they are so easy to apply. Have a physical disability that makes me not being able to do as much as I want. For my own Kia cee`d SW with a silver metallic paint I have Polish Angel Esclate Lotion and Master Sealant combo at home waiting to be applyied. But this autumn and winter the pain levels has been to high for doing any correction work. So the spray on rinse off products has just helped me to have something on for protection. Hope when spring comes I can be doing some correction either in one go or split it up in sections over time. Frustrateing to say the least LOL.

 

[Accumulator]

SWETM- For a guy with disabilities you do a *lot* IMO!

Yes, I think the FK1000P would have that "too shiny, not warm" look, so maybe you wouldn`t like it on silver. I sure like it on white too...but yeah, it`s easy to go overboard and buy more stuff than you need.

Heh heh, your plans for the Focus sound very involved to me, hope you enjoy doing it!