Optimum Gloss Coat application

T

tuffluck

New member
I`ve posted a little about this in the past, but my Camaro bumper was repainted a few years ago with an extremely brittle clear coat. At first I could wash it very lightly and it would take 5 washes or so until I started to see marring. Now probably 5 years later, one wash after a buff and I can see the swirls. The paint is also black metallic, which makes the swirls even more noticeable.

The best thing to do would be to repaint it, but I feel that path would be pricey. Instead I`ve been considering the path of Gloss Coat...but only on the bumper. Why? Well the rest of the car looks good, the paint is extremely durable, and in fact I just recently rebuffed and coated with Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant. SO, my questions are:

1. is there any reason why I cannot use opti gloss on the single bumper?
2. can i apply the wolfgang to the opti gloss after application, or is opti gloss THE sealant as well?
3. the step in opti gloss that says to use partial alcohol to wipe off product scares me; i literally believe my current clear coat is so brittle that this step will in fact cause more marring. in fact, i`m not even convinced that the act of applying gloss coat won`t create swirls in my paint. it`s truly a remarkably bad clear coat.

Just hoping anyone with experience in this realm could help me out. I`d hate to go through the process of application only to see swirls underneath the clear coat that can`t be removed for two years :blink:
 
If the bumper isn`t too chipped up I would just have PPF applied to it. Gloss-Coat isn`t going to keep it from getting swirled up but PPF will and it will also keep it from getting chipped.

Just my $.02
 
The PPF does sound like you best solution, but also the costliest besides having it repainted. Hoping the newer paint isn`t so delicate.

You could use something like Duragloss Squeaky Clean or McKees37 Paint Coating prep polishes with a fine pad instead of the using a IPA or prep spray.
The DG one is a lot easier to wipe off, so that may help you. When applying the OptiGloss you should try to find a microfiber applicator that is like a fine velour to prevent the marring. Gtechniq includes them with CSL and EXO. I think they are from the make-up/cosmetic industry. MF suede sounds like it would scratch on your paint. Go with more nap and those make-up pads have more nap. You`ll waste some product, but maybe help with the marring. You may want to get the applicator nice an primed by applying it to something (door jamb maybe?) first so the MF pad is wet and you`re not dry wiping at all.
 
You could always prep with Carpro Essence primer polish too. I know there has been mixed results from people that have used Essence under OptiGloss but that maybe worth a try. Some have had good results. The Essence will fill any last fine marring and should wipe off easily without marring. The OptiGloss would be easy to apply over the slick Essence coating. Wait 24 hours in between for good measure since they are different technologies.
 
Here is an idea learned from a Detailing website probably 15+ years ago, the guys that posted the video are Concours Auto Salon, San Antonio, Texas..
Great friends, great group of men, absolutely Killer Detailers, All of Them..

Take a nice, small, slightly longish sponge with rounded ends, put it inside of a nitrile glove, then put your very soft coating application cloth over the covered sponge, apply your product, and only the cloth will absorb the product, so there will be absolutely nothing wasted, stuck in the sponge..

Here is my all-time-favorite sponge for coating application, and of course, its intended use, applying Tuf-Shine Tire Coating to tires... https://www.autopia-carcare.com/tuf-shine-applicator.html#.XFEV9FWQH3g

Its the perfect size for my needs, does not apply a huge swath of material, so easier to keep track of it on the paintwork, and mind that you don`t leave high spots, and again, if its inside a glove, or covered with plastic first, there is zero waste of your expensive coating product..

Yes, there are "newer" applicators out today put out by some Coating manufacturers, and they probably work really good, but still, a sponge - absorbs - no matter what its made of, thickness, etc...

Dan F
 
Stokdgs- That`s the second no-reservations recommendation from you that I`ve read in the last 5 minutes. Anybody you`re willing to recommend sounds good to me.
 
Stokdgs said:
Here is an idea learned from a Detailing website probably 15+ years ago, the guys that posted the video are Concours Auto Salon, San Antonio, Texas..
Great friends, great group of men, absolutely Killer Detailers, All of Them..

Take a nice, small, slightly longish sponge with rounded ends, put it inside of a nitrile glove, then put your very soft coating application cloth over the covered sponge, apply your product, and only the cloth will absorb the product, so there will be absolutely nothing wasted, stuck in the sponge..

Here is my all-time-favorite sponge for coating application, and of course, its intended use, applying Tuf-Shine Tire Coating to tires... https://www.autopia-carcare.com/tuf-shine-applicator.html#.XFEV9FWQH3g

Its the perfect size for my needs, does not apply a huge swath of material, so easier to keep track of it on the paintwork, and mind that you don`t leave high spots, and again, if its inside a glove, or covered with plastic first, there is zero waste of your expensive coating product..

Yes, there are "newer" applicators out today put out by some Coating manufacturers, and they probably work really good, but still, a sponge - absorbs - no matter what its made of, thickness, etc...

Dan F
Click to expand...

Autofiber makes an applicator pad called a saver that has plastic pieces on both sides of the sponge before they wrap them in microfiber. They come in a terry end suede finish. Your way sounds cheaper. Ever try wrapping the sponge in plastic wrap?



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Coatings=crack said:
Autofiber makes an applicator pad called a saver that has plastic pieces on both sides of the sponge before they wrap them in microfiber. They come in a terry end suede finish. Your way sounds cheaper. Ever try wrapping the sponge in plastic wrap?



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Click to expand...
Last week I gave those a try with CQ UK 3, Gliss, 22ple VXPRO2, Gyeon LeatherShield and Gyeon Trim. I think they might actually work as advertised, most notably the paint coatings which used less product than similar vehicles have in the past. Also applied nice, even coats.

For some reason, they didnt seem to work as well on the trim but worked very well with the LeatherShield. I ordered more for next week.
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
Last week I gave those a try with CQ UK 3, Gliss, 22ple VXPRO2, Gyeon LeatherShield and Gyeon Trim. I think they might actually work as advertised, most notably the paint coatings which used less product than similar vehicles have in the past. Also applied nice, even coats.

For some reason, they didnt seem to work as well on the trim but worked very well with the LeatherShield. I ordered more for next week.
Click to expand...

Did you use the terry finish or the suede. Also was application of CQUK3? How long before you wiped off? Last what towels do you use for removal?


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Curious about what finish on the savers.

I only see microfiber terry listed...... The are separate suede ones too

Edit: found them, but still curious which everyone has experience with. Have a leathershield application coming up soon and CSL in the spring

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