2nd attempt to get rid of micomarring(PWS)

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nathansdad04

New member
It's gonna be sunny and 45 degrees here on Monday...so it's time to try to get rid of my micromarring once and for all.
If you read some of my previous posts, I caused the marring removing swirls using PB SSR2.5 etc. It was my first time using a PC.
My car is black which doesn't help matters. The micromarring isn't noticeable unless is really bright out....but in bright light(and up close) the micromarring actually 'sparkles'.

I'm going to use PWs, but I'm not sure what pad(s) to use and/or how much PWs to apply to the pad. Should I be making ultra-slow passes with the PC or a tad faster since I'm not going to be doing ton of defect correction?
Obviously, it'll probably end up being a 'trial and error' thing, but I don't want the polishing to turn into a 5 hour nightmare like my first attempt(a few months ago).
Is a white pad w/ PWs a good start...or should I just start with an orange pad?
 
I would start with the white. Just focus on getting one small section right. Once you figure out what it took to do that, then repeat over the rest of the car.

One important thing to remember is to make sure the paint's surface is clean as well as your pad. Anything that gets caught in between can cause micro-marring.

Troy
 
Troy@DetailCity said:
I would start with the white. Just focus on getting one small section right. Once you figure out what it took to do that, then repeat over the rest of the car.
Click to expand...

Good advice on using a "test section." Always keep in mind that you will want to start out using the least aggressive method that seems plausible, and move up from that if it doesn't give you the results you want. No need to start out with a cut pad if a polish pad will do the trick.
 
JaredPointer said:
No need to start out with a cut pad if a polish pad will do the trick.
Click to expand...

Very true but this is kind of iffy for me. I'd start off with the polishing pad and if that works keep on going. If not bump it up to the cutting pad or SSR1 and a finishing pad. Pws is pad dependent and with a polishing pad swirls weren't being removed- but maybe it will be just enough to tackle the micromarring.

Edit- I take that back - try to stick with a polishing pad if you can. This way you won't have the risk of the pad inducing marring into the paint. Apply a thin bead of product around the pad, crank the PC up to speed 5 (maybe 6 if you want to see faster results) and a few overlapping passes should do the trick.
 
When i used the PwS I was woring a rotary with a polishing pad.. Now knowing this is winter i was not too worried about marring but i kept the speed slow and made the passes slow and deliberate.

with the PC i would keep the speed near 4-5 and move the PC slowly let the pad/porduct do the work and try not to rush it.
 
Troy@DetailCity said:
One important thing to remember is to make sure the paint's surface is clean as well as your pad. Anything that gets caught in between can cause micro-marring.

Troy
Click to expand...

I plan on washing/claying a panel at a time before I polish.

You're probably right about starting with a white pad. How much PWs should I be applying to the pad for each panel (5 dots of polish or maybe a line around the pad)?
I don't have any swirls that I know of (I polished 99% of them out last attempt).
 
nathansdad04 said:
I plan on washing/claying a panel at a time before I polish.

You're probably right about starting with a white pad. How much PWs should I be applying to the pad for each panel (5 dots of polish or maybe a line around the pad)?
I don't have any swirls that I know of (I polished 99% of them out last attempt).
Click to expand...

Go with one line around the pad. The first panel you may want to use a bit more to prime the pad.

Remember to do small sections (2'x2') not one whole panel at once.
 
nathansdad04 said:
If all goes well...can I use DG #105 right afterward WITHOUT using the bonding agent?
Click to expand...

yes..you will have a clean surface..the main purpose of the BA is to clean the surface so the sealant will bond to clean paint..it also has a catalyst in the product to add to the durability...if you need a one year protection..lol

I have gone almost 6 months now with 105 (no bonding agent) and looks very close to when I applied it.....still beading like day 1.....and I am getting close to redoing the truck for spring...so I do not see a need for the bonding agent..unless you live in a severe weather area...lots of rain...acid rain...industrial fallout...then I would use it...I was told it just makes the sealant shell a bit harder (durable)..

So your set to go with 105 after the PwS...PwS will ensure a clean surface and a good base for 105....

AL
 
If the white pad gets rid of the micromarring then that'll be all that you need to use. Just take your time with it and you should be good to go.
 
There is no polish in it to be broken down. There are no abrasives in it. You can just wipe PwS on, let dry, and wipe off. But if you want to remove the micromarring then you'll want to work the product in a little. How long is up to you, it has a long work in time. Once the product disappears then that should be long enough.
 
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